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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Interfacing or no interfacing?

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Interfacing or no interfacing?
ccris
ccris
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Date: 8/3/13 5:48 PM

On Kwik Sew 2388 (men's traditional button front pajamas with collar for woven fabric), I noticed the instructions didn't call for interfacing the front or collar. I read the PR reviews on this pattern, and no one mentioned it. I've never seen a pj pattern that didn't interface the front. There are piping directions or one can leave it plain, but I think the interfacing is needed since it's a button front. I know a piece of interfacing could be ironed on behind the buttons and buttonholes, but I thought it was unusual for a pattern to ignore this step, and more unusual that no one mentioned it in the reviews. Maybe I'm missing something. I don't know. This is an older Kwik Sew pattern.............probably 15 years old, at least. Any thoughts?

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 8/3/13 6:50 PM

Does the front fold over several times, as in a self-fabric facing? If so, then it wouldn't need interfacing, as one layer of the fabric would do that. The pattern does state "scrap piece of fusible interfacing" but it doesn't say how much, nor the size.

Otherwise, I would think that the lack of interfacing is to make the pjs comfortable to wear while sleeping. You don't want a collar point stabbing you in the face while you are sleeping.

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ccris
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Date: 8/4/13 0:34 AM

There's a pj front and a separate front facing, so the two make a double thickness of fabric........typical for traditional pj's. All traditional cotton woven RTW pj's we have (male and female alike) have interfaced fronts and collars, whether inexpensive or better quality, piped or plain. I have many pj patterns from Butterick, McCalls, and Simplicity. All of them call for interfaced (light) fronts and collars. BTW, none of these RTW interfaced pj collar points stab us. lol The interfacing doesn't make them stiff or uncomfortable at all. If RTW and other paper patterns companies use interfacing in these areas, it makes no sense to me why Kwik Sew eliminated it. Then again, maybe Kirsten Martensen knew something others didn't, and still don't, apparently. The KS misses 3553 and 2811 pj patterns don't use interfacing, either. So, it's definitely a Kwik Sew exclusive. I always thought interfacing was used to stabilize....especially buttons and buttonholes to keep the fabric from ripping, and in collars to keep them from looking crumpled. If I ever get around to making these, I'll probably use interfacing, regardless.

The scrap piece of interfacing is used behind the buttonholes for the drawstring in the pants. There's only a single thickness of fabric there. I wouldn't use the drawstring, but I think those buttonholes would have a lot of stress. Not sure how thy'd hold up over the long run.



mmcp
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Date: 8/4/13 8:59 AM

They're not the only ones. I'm working on a button-front Burda shirt that left it out too.

SewLibra
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Date: 8/4/13 3:07 PM

I agree with Miss Fairchild. Pajamas should be soft and comfy, hence no interfacing. I often use very thin interfacing on daytime garments for comfort, as well.

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to ccris <<


Date: 8/4/13 8:47 PM

I would bet Ms. Martensen knew more than we do. I know Peggy Sagers doesn't interface her blouse collars; watched a webcast where she brought this up. She said it wasn't necessary, especially if you wanted the collar to float more freely. Btu I've never come across a KwikSew pattern that didn't have interfacing.

I was trying to give a visual about the collar point.

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Peter in NYC
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Date: 8/4/13 9:02 PM

Personally, I would interface the facing with something no heavier than my fashion fabric. It's not for stiffness, but to support the buttonholes. A lot depends on the weight of the fabric, too. A heavier flannel, for example, might not need the extra support. You might try making a buttonhole on a double layer of your fashion fabric and seeing how it turns out. You'll know whether you need that added layer or not, most probably.

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Peter in NYC
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Date: 8/4/13 9:04 PM

You might also consider using just a strip of interfacing immediately behind where the buttonholes will be rather than the entire facing. (But only if this isn't visible through the top layer of fabric.)

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ccris
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Date: 8/10/13 0:01 AM

Oh geez, I forgot all about this thread. Thanks to all for your input. If I ever get around to sewing these, I'll probably use some kind of light interfacing. They used to carry a very lightweight fusible cotton interfacing, but I haven't seen it around in years. I just found it a bit odd that all three Kwik Sew pj patterns didn't require it, but three of the big 4 did (at least in the ones I have). Vogue doesn't have a pj pattern. Never checked Burda.

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