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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Jacket construction sequence

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Jacket construction sequence
Don't agree with pattern instructions
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/19/13
Posts: 299
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Date: 8/11/13 2:45 PM

I'm on my second jacket right now.

I have made jackets in the past, lined and unlined, tailored and loose fitting, from lovely taffeta for evenings through to smart (for ease of expression) fabrics for suits.

Without going through all the patterns in my stash, it now seems to me that their prescribed sequence of assembly is (how to put this?) questionable? crazy? illogical?

They all seem to want you to make up the entire body/torso - join all body parts together - and then, and ONLY then, tackle the under collar, upper collar, facings, lapels assembly. This is the trickiest part of making a jacket and they want you to do all that so late on? If you follow the instructions, you are heaving your fronts, backs, sides, all stitched together, through the arm of the machine while trying to fit the (usually) tricky upper and lower collar and lapels!

Going by instinct, I ignored all that on the previous jacket and just sewed shoulder seams, then tackled the collar and lapels. If you get them right, you can do the easy stuff next. If you get them wrong, it is so much less material to put through the machine / weighing on your table as you sew, to correct it! This makes sense, does it not?

WHY do they write patterns like that?

Does anyone else ignore pattern sequence and go by instinct?

nancy2001
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Date: 8/11/13 4:07 PM

Just because pattern instructions are included in the pattern envelope doesn't mean you need to follow them. Since you already know how to assemble the jacket you're working on, don't waste your time with the pattern instructions. Just fold them up and stuff them back into the pattern envelope.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

Merry G
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Merry G  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/12/13 6:55 AM

What do u think is the best order of sewing a jacket?

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Merry sews

nancy2001
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Date: 8/12/13 8:45 AM

I think the best order is the order you prefer. I assemble the bodice first, then usually attach the collars and lapels, then the sleeves. Next I usually do the buttonholes, and finally the linings. But there's no reason to assemble a jacket in that exact order. It's really up to you.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 8/13/13 5:00 AM

Yeah ignore the instructions. They are time consuming and illogical. As to why they write it like this - maybe they like the picture layout better this way? :))

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www.iconicpatterns.com

Diahn
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Date: 8/13/13 11:54 AM

I've been noticing this as well. The instructions tell you to sew up all the sides first and then the shoulder seams and then the collar. This is so backwards, and I don't see any benefit to this sequence. It would make more sense to sew the contour seams in the fronts and backs, join them at the shoulders, and then attach the collar with everything open up flat.

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http://seamslikeparadise.blogspot.com/

nancy2001
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Date: 8/13/13 12:31 PM

We can sew the jacket in whatever order makes sense to us. Of course, that will vary for each individual.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

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