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Message Board > Plus Size Sewing > Bias cut A-line dress or skirt ( Moderated by JEF)

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Bias cut A-line dress or skirt
Do you need to be tiny?
rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/16/13 10:28 PM

Hi,

I have heard in the past that only small people should wear bias cuts due to the cling factor.

I'm not convinced about this one. The reason why is that I make clothing out of knits and fit them so that they skim the body nicely.

I think (just my thought) is that bias sort of "suck" into the body shape whilst knits hang differently? I'm definitely lining the dress or skirt and have read the bias skirt thread on PR which advises that the lining needs to be bias too. I'm going to use linen for the outer and perhaps voile for the lining?

Love to hear thoughts and experiences on this one. Just so you can visualise the size I'm talking about, my hip measurement is 109cm.

Sue




------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

lelliebunny
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lelliebunny  Friend of PR
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In reply to rag doll <<


Date: 8/16/13 10:34 PM

i think it would be pretty awesome since you aren't going to use a super clingy fabric. :D

------
i'm a PFAFF girl at heart that has an occasional affair with other brands.

http://thetruthaboutsewing.blogspot.com

dukaqwn

dukaqwn  Friend of PR
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In reply to rag doll <<


Date: 8/17/13 0:05 AM

You really aren't THAT plus sized in comparison to me......

I don't think the cut of the fabric, unless stretch is needed, makes that much a difference as style.

Bias cut is good for stretch. BUT, it won't make any style look right on you. That is something you have to decide. Stretch can be a negative with some styles.

Bias also takes considerably more fabric. My suggestion is to consider how the styles you are looking at may look on you and making fitting adjustments to the pattern - as is - rather than a bias cut.

------
http://sewtarot.blogspot.com/

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to dukaqwn <<


Date: 8/17/13 1:01 AM

Good thought, and yes a-line is one of my best shapes.

Don't know why but I always think bias cut looks so, i don't know, elegant?

thanks

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Jane S
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Jane S
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In reply to rag doll <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 8/17/13 1:02 AM

I've made a bias sleeveless dress, a bias skirt, a bias dolman blouse and a bias nightgown and love all of them. I did try several different patterns and found that I am short waisted so needed the bias angle to start very high on my body rather than have long, slow slope. I used Burda for a skirt and Kwik Sew for my nightgown and two Sandra Betzina Vogue patterns, now OOP, for the top and the dress. All of those had more ease than the Butterick pattern I also tried. I lso discovered that the fabric made a tremendous amount of difference. My Kwik Sew nightgown was made up in three fabrics and each one had an entirely different drape.
Burda skirt 8294

target='_blank'>Kwik Sew nightgown

Vogue 7823

I say give it a try.

------
www.luckysewandsew.blogspot.com

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 8/17/13 1:32 AM

Last year I did experiment with bias skirts. To be clear my size is XXL and I have all kind of issues with tilted waist and standing in a bent .
Even then I think that a bias skirt is beautiful and more elegant than straight on the grain, but in the same time I must admit that the fitting asks more precautions. I cut them one or two sizes wider than normal skirts and see what more must be done to make them hang correctly. I cannot be more specific because it also dependson the fabric
-- Edited on 8/17/13 1:37 AM --

rag doll
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In reply to Jane S <<


Date: 8/17/13 9:04 AM

Hi Jane,
your blog is an inspiration. The Vogue bias dress is out of print now but I'll be looking for something similar.

I also have Pamela's patterns bias skirt so I'm going to give that a go.

Thanks

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Marie367
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In reply to rag doll <<


Date: 8/17/13 10:25 AM

Bias cuts give special sewing challenges (especially hemming) because of the strange stretch. Leave the skirt hang a couple of days before you hem it. Good luck!

Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to Marie367 <<


Date: 8/17/13 6:03 PM

Jane S, your bias dresses are lovely, just lovely!

There are other reviews of this very pretty pattern here. Although it is out of print, it does turn up now and then on ebay and etsy, sometimes more pricey than others.

For anyone contemplating working with bias, here is Marcy Tilton's superb, essential guide to the subject. She includes updated techniques for dealing with the stretch factor both before and during sewing, and her advice should make all of this less much less daunting. BTW, I have taken her class on working with bias, and the dresses she wore on her quite womanly figure were most becoming to her.

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 8/17/13 9:09 PM

there's some lovely reviews on 7823 on PR. Shame it's out of print now. I looked on ebay but there's only the one in my size. Wouldn't you know it, they don't ship to Oz. I'll keep my eye out and see what comes up.

I have just ordered the Dress Kit from Sure-Fit Designs. I have just done the pants with great success on the 1st draft. My long suffering DH says it's by far the best toile of a pant yet and believe me he used the word Toile and has seen many....lol!

I think I'll have a crack at an a-line dress from the kit for now.

Thanks everyone.

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

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