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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Jacket fitting: dimple in upper chest area

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Jacket fitting: dimple in upper chest area
Just below shoulder pad
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/19/13
Posts: 299
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Date: 8/21/13 1:22 PM

Jacket shell nearly finished, sleeves and shoulder pads in. However, there is a fitting weirdo. Dimple in jacket on upper chest area, just below shoulder pad/s, near lapel.

Page 90 of Jackets for Real People (Palmer/Pletsch) says to attach a piece of fleece from the front edge of the shoulder pad/s. As if everyone has handy pieces of fleece. I'm thinking that thin-ish quilding wadding would do.

Has anyone else had this particular fitting problem? It's a new one to me, therefore the inescapable conclusion is that it's the pattern I'm using, not my physique.

nancy2001
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In reply to Handshake <<
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Date: 8/21/13 2:42 PM

Handshake, I have exactly the same problem. As P/P suggests, I always attach a chest shield to my shoulder pad to fill out the hollow area in my upper chest.

I use quilting fleece, but any type of fleece will do. This photo shows one of my early handmade shoulder pads with the chest shield attached. shoulder pad with chest shield attached. These days, I usually attach two layers of fleece to completely fill in the hollow in my upper chest.



-- Edited on 8/21/13 3:02 PM --

------
No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

utahliz
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Date: 8/22/13 2:09 PM

Have I seen them made with hair canvas, or am I imaging this (probably confused with something else, if I'm wrong).

Liz

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In reply to Handshake <<


Date: 8/22/13 2:56 PM

Someplace in the back of my memory is an article by Sandra Betzina mentioning that European jacket patterns, like Burda, are cut narrower in the area you are talking about, helping to prevent(as she put it) that well-known hollow below the shoulder that is characteristic of American patterns.

I think this might have been in one of her 'Power Sewing' books.

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