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Forum > Fitting Woes > Detailed Body Measurements, Pattern Sizes, Ease ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Detailed Body Measurements, Pattern Sizes, Ease
Longblades
Longblades
Intermediate
CANADA
Member since 7/28/11
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Date: 8/22/13 12:30 PM

Where can I find detailed body measurements as they relate to pattern sizes and ease usual for each? I googled and came up with a Burda site that was ok, but still not did not use all measurements I know you can take.

Burda Measurements

But there are some missing, for instance shoulder width is popping out at me by it's absence.

This is prompted by advice I received in an earlier thread on how to alter for my small neck and some said to buy the pattern based on my neck (13") and do a FBA for the rest. Well, I'd be buying a size 6 and needing between 16 and 18 for the rest of me.

And the reason shoulder width is notably missing to me is because I'm getting a self measured 13" there too, from left shoulder point to right. I know I should have a buddy measure me for best accuracy. I have no idea if it's the norm for neck measurement to equal shoulder width, does it for you? And I'd like to know usual minimum wearing ease applied to something like a jewel neckline.

Any ideas, links you give me?

sued5320
sued5320
Advanced Beginner
NE USA
Member since 6/6/13
Posts: 28
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Date: 8/22/13 1:04 PM

I can't really help you on the body measurements and sizes. My only reference book is Fit for Real People. It discusses ease, but generally related to bust, waist and hip ease.

For a small neck, the suggested alteration is just to change the stitching line as well as the facing and then adjust any collar.

I've never heard of selecting pattern size based on neck measurement. It's either been full bust, high bust or measure an existing garment that fits you well and select a size that has matching finished measurements.

Is there a right and wrong place for a neckline? Probably not - it's more about personal preference. One person may prefer a higher jewel neckline and another may want it a little lower.

One last comment, unless you are very tiny, you may want to double check that shoulder width point to point. 13 in doesn't look right. I measured the smallest size of pattern from shoulder to center back and then doubled it. I came up with 15''.

Longblades
Longblades
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In reply to sued5320 <<


Date: 8/22/13 1:42 PM

I can't find that thread I made. What I was actually told, I think, was to either buy by my high bust ( 35.5 ") or use my first patterns which were a size 10 and then do a FBA. I'm old school too, was taught to always buy by the bust size, which in a size 10 is 33", I think, at Burda.

I measured my actual self. Just did it again and now I get 13.25 inches. You measured a pattern, not a person. Do you see what I mean about ease now? Was that pattern you measured allowing 2" of wearing ease across the shoulders for an actual body measurement of 13"? What body measurement was your pattern using for the shoulder?

I only asked about a jewel neckline because it's the one probably most closely fitted to the neck. Knowing how a company treats that will, I'm guessing, help me know if other sizes in their patterns will fit in other style necklines, or at least it will be a guide for me.

sued5320
sued5320
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Date: 8/22/13 2:55 PM

Take this for what it's worth, because I know zilch about flat pattern drafting and design. But I've been trying to make a pattern fit me for almost a month.

The pattern I measured is a blouse pattern and other than a 3/8'' seam allowance, the outer most point of the shoulder on the pattern should align with the shoulder on the body. However, a bodice has depth so a pattern piece measured flat is going to be different than when it's draped over a 3-dimensional body and goes over and around our bumps.

I wouldn't see why any wearing ease would be needed along the top of your shoulder. There may be design ease depending on the sleeve type (dropped or kimono sleeve). And you need wearing ease in a sleeve and across the back so you can move. But, we don't have a moving joint at the shoulder seam.

Longblades
Longblades
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In reply to sued5320 <<


Date: 8/22/13 4:04 PM

LOL, I have a moving joint in my shoulder, I hope you do too.

Ok, the OH just came home and he says I measure 13.5 inches between shoulder points. I can hunch my shoulders and get that measurement up to 15 inches. I know, that's really my back moving, but I move around so I can see that a certain amount of wearing ease must be needed. I just can't find out what it is. Probably not enough to hunch but most of us don't stand up measuring straight every second either. And the amount of ease in the neck, I'm thinking, must fit in between the shoulders somewhere.

chacha45

chacha45  Friend of PR
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In reply to Longblades <<


Date: 8/23/13 8:42 AM

Hot patterns has it.
http://www.hotpatterns.com/pages/size-charts.html

s.gopalan
s.gopalan
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 10/27/06
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In reply to Longblades <<


Date: 8/23/13 11:44 AM

Hi, Singer used to sell small booklets on fitting, called 'How to measure, alter and fit', which showed how to take detailed measurements for correct fitting. Perhaps you could find one at a library or online. Hope this helps.

------
usis

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