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Wedding Dress Bodice
kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
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Date: 9/3/13 7:57 PM

I'm making this dress here for my daughter.
I have some regular 'muslin' fabric that I want to use for the first test run just to get some experience with the pattern. There is no selvage edge to the muslin (leftovers from another project) so I can't tell where the selvage was originally.
The muslin fabric doesn't seem to have any stretch so do I need to worry about the grainline other than keeping the grain straight?

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KathySews
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Date: 9/3/13 9:06 PM

You might get some odd twists if off grain. Why risk it.

Make a little snip and tear the fabric. It will tear along the grainline

solosmocker
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Date: 9/4/13 4:38 PM

It's really important that your muslin is on grain. Really important. If not you will have twists and odd "hanging" that you will fix in the muslin and it probably won't need fixing in the real gown. So if you fix the real gown according to your wrinkles and folds you could end up cutting into your expensive fabric and ruining it. Your muslin must be cut with the same grain you will use for your gown. Also, don't substitute cross grain for straight grain in your muslin either. It has much more stretch than the straight . Cut the muslin exactly as the fashion fabric to get your fit spot on.

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Sewliz
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In reply to kowgiirl.up <<
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Date: 9/4/13 7:38 PM

With regular muslin type fabric it probably doesn't matter too much. You can try pulling the fabric as if trying to find stretch in both directions. Woven cottons tend to have a tiny bit more stretch across the grain than with the grain, usually enough to tell the difference.

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kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
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Date: 9/5/13 4:43 PM

Well this doesn't look right

I think I need to clip the bodice front deeper (closer to the stitch line) so it will fit the curve of the side piece. Is that correct?

I did a bunch of little snips then I tried some notches since that is what it looked like they did in the pattern diagram.



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Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
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TGWGWS
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Date: 9/6/13 1:58 AM

To get the curve smooth, you have to cut and/or notch just up to the seamline. You also may want to trim the seam allowance slightly. It also looks as though you may have a small pleat in the seam. I usually clip a few stitches on each side of the pleat, remove those stitches, smooth out the fabric, and re-sew that area to eliminate those pleats.

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MaryDB
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Date: 9/6/13 2:21 AM

Yes, don't be so shy about trimming and notching that seam! And as the PP says, do work on easing out those pleats. It's good you have a muslin to practice on.

kowgiirl.up
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Date: 9/6/13 11:35 AM

Thanks ladies. I'll give those pointers a try.

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Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

kowgiirl.up
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Date: 9/10/13 6:16 PM

Just an update..

This is the latest attempt. I think I am close to getting the princess seem sort of mastered. I still need more practice.

To me the right and left curve when comparing the two look to be off. My DD is supposed to stop by late this week so I'm going to have her try it on just to see how it fits.

The pattern instructions said to match the notches for the bodice side back to the side edge of the bodice back. When I matched them I had fabric from one of the pieces hanging past the other on the end. I'm not sure if you can see the overhang in one of the pictures. I am guessing that is normal due to the shape/angle of the bodice.

I made quite a few mistakes during layout and sewing. I got the marks on the wrong side of the fabric and I sewed one piece inside out.

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Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

Maripat
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Date: 9/11/13 7:46 AM

Looks like it's coming along very well.
Might I also suggest making more than one muslin? I usually go to the reduced section of the fabric store and buy the cheapest fabric that is the weight of the fabric of the finished dress. Then I use the muslin fabric as a pattern for the next practice garment.
I am making DD wedding gown and the top layer is chiffon. I found the ugliest orange chiffon for a few dollars a yard. I could practice on it, draw on it, etc. Since the dress is very fitted I needed to see how the fabric would behave before cutting the real thing.
And it looked really pretty over the floral charmeuse that I found for the under dress

One more thing, I saw a video on YouTube done by Gretchen Hirsch on a "hairline Seam" finish. If your final fabric is chiffon or tulle this would work great around those bustline princess seams.

Good luck.
Maripat

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