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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > One more bodice fitting question... why the wrinkles?? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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One more bodice fitting question... why the wrinkles??
ALTmentalities
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ALTmentalities
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Date: 9/16/13 10:04 AM

Making a wedding gown for a friend (see the design here ) and have already gotten some advice on this forum ... much appreciated! I have a couple more questions for you ladies:

I made one more muslin of the gown, using your suggestions on how to make the V-back fit! I stabilized the V-edge in the back as soon as I cut the fabric to avoid stretching. Then, I used a backstitch to pull the V tight after I fitted it on the bride. Here you can see the muslin. The right side of the back is gathered and the left is not. WOW, what a difference it makes! It looks a little wrinkled in this fabric but I think it will be not nearly as noticeable in the fashion fabric, with proper support, a lace overlay, and scalloped lace trim to cover it up.

My new question though: what's the deal with the wrinkles that red arrow is pointing to? I feel they are indicating the need for a waist stay... it looks like the bodice is riding up just a bit. Do you agree? Or do they indicate tightness in the armhole? (that was my other thought). Those wrinkles are truly the final fit issue. Otherwise, this thing is really coming together.

Thanks for all your help, ladies. This is my first time to make a wedding dress, but I just got engaged... so the second time is coming soon!!
-- Edited on 9/16/13 10:05 AM --

Quickie
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Quickie
NETHERLANDS
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Date: 9/16/13 3:21 PM

I come to the idea that it is a bit snug on the waist. But are you really content about all those gathers on the backdecolete? You have one more Side on the back. Can it be a suggestion to pin little wedges out and make a new paper pattern for the back?

solosmocker
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Date: 9/16/13 8:37 PM

I don't think your v back is stretched so much as the length of the back bodice below the yoke is too long. This is making wrinkles in the bodice and the v back. I would also let out the waist a bit and do the waist stay.

Also on both sides there is a diagonal wrinkle from under the armpit to the shoulder seam/neckline. If the dress is going to be sleeveless cut the seam allowances off of the armhole on your muslin. This may release the stress causing that wrinkle. If not it appears that an inch or two below the armpit is too tight and too high. Put sleeves in on your muslin before you call it a day. They can make a big difference on the bodice.
-- Edited on 9/16/13 8:40 PM --

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jewelsfashions

jewelsfashions
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In reply to ALTmentalities <<


Date: 9/16/13 8:40 PM

I also wonder if maybe it's too tight at the waist and so then keeping it from falling/laying nicely against the waist and hips which is causing the wrinkles? Just my 2 cents.

KathySews
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Date: 9/16/13 9:28 PM

I agree it looks like the waist is a little tight. She needs to be able to bend, sit, dance comfortably so a little more room would not hurt. I think the dress will be beautiful.

AND congratulations on your engagement.

TGWGWS
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Date: 9/18/13 1:56 AM

The elastic makes the back fit better, but it should not look like it has elastic. There should be no gathers. And to me, it looks as though the dress is too long in the waist and maybe too tight. Are there any wrinkles in the front? I would put the sleeves in and see if that changes the fit any. You are a great friend and I hope all your efforts are appreciated
-- Edited on 9/18/13 2:00 AM --

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Tina
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Catina
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Catina  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/23/13 11:05 PM

Hi, I've been a fashion industry patternmaker and also a professional stitcher of bridal gown for over 25 years. Here is my take based on your photos. Side note: whenever possible, try to take video of your fittings, if even for your own review- it can reveal alot that you don't catch in the moment!

* Your bodice and skirt side seams actually look pretty balanced (vertical), so that tells me that your back bodice panels are probably suspect.

* Your back waist seam is nice and horizontal: it's not being pushed upward or downward, which is usually the case if a waist is too tight. It could possible be a tad too tight, but not the cause of the "wrinkling". I wouldn't mind if you released the center back waist 1/4" of an inch though. Your wearer can tell you if it feels too tight or if comfortable.

*I do think your waist placement is between .5" and 1" too high. From the pictures, it appears to be hitting slightly above her natural waist (her most narrow waist position). I think if you lower the waist position, you will not have those "dimply pockets) at the top of each bum cheek.

*The armholes are too high up, but those are their own set of "wrinkles". The armhole should be lowered at least .5", and either clipped and turned under to audition if sleeveless, or sleeves attached to see if that area smooths out.

*The back bodice darts are not needed, and could be causing part of the problem.

*The back bodice panels are fine at the side seams (except the armholes being too high). The major problem is the excess of fabric in the open back's edges need to be "darted" horizontally and those "darts" drafted out of the pattern. If we do end up needing a back waist dart into the bodice, it would be a scant little 3/8" pinch if that, and only about 3" tall.

*I love the position in the skirt side seams where you started flaring the skirt.

*The back yoke and open back is brilliant!

*I'm not sure the back bottom of the skirt at the hem is wide enough. It's looking a hair strained to me and kind of "tongue" like instead of a "sweep".

*Love the collar with her short hair!

Let me know if you have any questions or if you need more visuals I will try to do some illustrations.

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Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

www.FashionHackPatterns.com

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