Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > One more bodice fitting question... why the wrinkles?? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
One more bodice fitting question... why the wrinkles??
ALTmentalities
star
ALTmentalities
Intermediate
IN USA
Member since 4/28/11
Posts: 20
Login to reply to this post

Date: 9/16/13 10:04 AM

Making a wedding gown for a friend (see the design here ) and have already gotten some advice on this forum ... much appreciated! I have a couple more questions for you ladies:

I made one more muslin of the gown, using your suggestions on how to make the V-back fit! I stabilized the V-edge in the back as soon as I cut the fabric to avoid stretching. Then, I used a backstitch to pull the V tight after I fitted it on the bride. Here you can see the muslin. The right side of the back is gathered and the left is not. WOW, what a difference it makes! It looks a little wrinkled in this fabric but I think it will be not nearly as noticeable in the fashion fabric, with proper support, a lace overlay, and scalloped lace trim to cover it up.

My new question though: what's the deal with the wrinkles that red arrow is pointing to? I feel they are indicating the need for a waist stay... it looks like the bodice is riding up just a bit. Do you agree? Or do they indicate tightness in the armhole? (that was my other thought). Those wrinkles are truly the final fit issue. Otherwise, this thing is really coming together.

Thanks for all your help, ladies. This is my first time to make a wedding dress, but I just got engaged... so the second time is coming soon!!
-- Edited on 9/16/13 10:05 AM --

Quickie
star
Quickie
NETHERLANDS
Member since 10/8/10
Posts: 593
Login to reply to this post

Date: 9/16/13 3:21 PM

I come to the idea that it is a bit snug on the waist. But are you really content about all those gathers on the backdecolete? You have one more Side on the back. Can it be a suggestion to pin little wedges out and make a new paper pattern for the back?

solosmocker
starstarstar
solosmocker
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 1/23/06
Posts: 1367
Login to reply to this post

Date: 9/16/13 8:37 PM

I don't think your v back is stretched so much as the length of the back bodice below the yoke is too long. This is making wrinkles in the bodice and the v back. I would also let out the waist a bit and do the waist stay.

Also on both sides there is a diagonal wrinkle from under the armpit to the shoulder seam/neckline. If the dress is going to be sleeveless cut the seam allowances off of the armhole on your muslin. This may release the stress causing that wrinkle. If not it appears that an inch or two below the armpit is too tight and too high. Put sleeves in on your muslin before you call it a day. They can make a big difference on the bodice.
-- Edited on 9/16/13 8:40 PM --

------
http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

jewelsfashions

jewelsfashions
Advanced Beginner
MN USA
Member since 9/8/06
Posts: 780
Login to reply to this post

In reply to ALTmentalities <<


Date: 9/16/13 8:40 PM

I also wonder if maybe it's too tight at the waist and so then keeping it from falling/laying nicely against the waist and hips which is causing the wrinkles? Just my 2 cents.

KathySews
star
KathySews  Friend of PR
Advanced
MI USA
Member since 10/1/06
Posts: 3664

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

Date: 9/16/13 9:28 PM

I agree it looks like the waist is a little tight. She needs to be able to bend, sit, dance comfortably so a little more room would not hurt. I think the dress will be beautiful.

AND congratulations on your engagement.

TGWGWS
TGWGWS  Friend of PR
Advanced
TX USA
Member since 8/15/08
Posts: 222
Login to reply to this post

Date: 9/18/13 1:56 AM

The elastic makes the back fit better, but it should not look like it has elastic. There should be no gathers. And to me, it looks as though the dress is too long in the waist and maybe too tight. Are there any wrinkles in the front? I would put the sleeves in and see if that changes the fit any. You are a great friend and I hope all your efforts are appreciated
-- Edited on 9/18/13 2:00 AM --

------
tgwgws

Catina
Catina
Expert/Couture
Member since 10/6/11
Posts: 35
Login to reply to this post

Date: 9/23/13 11:05 PM

Hi, I've been a fashion industry patternmaker and also a professional stitcher of bridal gown for over 25 years. Here is my take based on your photos. Side note: whenever possible, try to take video of your fittings, if even for your own review- it can reveal alot that you don't catch in the moment!

* Your bodice and skirt side seams actually look pretty balanced (vertical), so that tells me that your back bodice panels are probably suspect.

* Your back waist seam is nice and horizontal: it's not being pushed upward or downward, which is usually the case if a waist is too tight. It could possible be a tad too tight, but not the cause of the "wrinkling". I wouldn't mind if you released the center back waist 1/4" of an inch though. Your wearer can tell you if it feels too tight or if comfortable.

*I do think your waist placement is between .5" and 1" too high. From the pictures, it appears to be hitting slightly above her natural waist (her most narrow waist position). I think if you lower the waist position, you will not have those "dimply pockets) at the top of each bum cheek.

*The armholes are too high up, but those are their own set of "wrinkles". The armhole should be lowered at least .5", and either clipped and turned under to audition if sleeveless, or sleeves attached to see if that area smooths out.

*The back bodice darts are not needed, and could be causing part of the problem.

*The back bodice panels are fine at the side seams (except the armholes being too high). The major problem is the excess of fabric in the open back's edges need to be "darted" horizontally and those "darts" drafted out of the pattern. If we do end up needing a back waist dart into the bodice, it would be a scant little 3/8" pinch if that, and only about 3" tall.

*I love the position in the skirt side seams where you started flaring the skirt.

*The back yoke and open back is brilliant!

*I'm not sure the back bottom of the skirt at the hem is wide enough. It's looking a hair strained to me and kind of "tongue" like instead of a "sweep".

*Love the collar with her short hair!

Let me know if you have any questions or if you need more visuals I will try to do some illustrations.

------
Creatively Yours,
Catina Ferraine

www.CatinaFerraine.com
www.RawEdgeDevelopment.com
www.FashionForwardDevelopment.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Bridal and Formalwear Sewing >> One more bodice fitting question... why the wrinkles??

Merchants on PR
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger

Online Sewing Classes
10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro

ModKid Patterns Modkid sewing book Bloom dress
photo
Review by KLK7 on 2/14/13
Read Review

Favorite Things Uptown Coat Pattern
Favorite Things Uptown Coat Pattern

Details
Price: $14.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

SewBaby Alphabet Take-Along book Pattern
SewBaby Alphabet Take-Along book Pattern

Details
Price: $8.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Maria Denmark Lotta Lady Bag Digital Pattern
Maria Denmark Lotta Lady Bag Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $5.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Annabelle Hat Digital Pattern ( Size 0-10 years )
Peek-A Boo Annabelle Hat Digital Pattern ( Size 0-10 years )

Details
Price: $4.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Vogue Patterns 8411
photo
Review by Secretsuga... on 2/8/09
Read Review

McCalls 6188 Pattern( Size )
McCalls 6188 Pattern( Size  )

Details
Price: $13.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Kwik Sew 3348 Pattern
Kwik Sew 3348 Pattern

Details
Price: $10.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN