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Forum > Fitting Woes > The scary blue dress ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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The scary blue dress
fitting issue with the back neck
Datcat23
Datcat23
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Subject: The scary blue dress ... finished Date: 9/29/13 6:34 PM

Time and time again, I bemoan the lack of a fitting buddy, and this is one of those times.

When I did the initial baste fitting of this yesterday, I had two major hurdles; I was focussed on the fit of the bodice front, and I had hubby helping me. So when I said to him "just pull together the back seam as if the zip is there, and let me know if anything looks off" he of course said it looked great. I left it at that (was solving a pucker issue at the front) and put the zip in. Now I realise I have the same issue/gaping that I get with a lot of clothing ...... I assume its because of my narrow shoulders and short back.

I can't redraft and cut the top of the dress, so I am looking for some "quick and dirty" solutions to the gaping you can see below. Considering its a v-neck front (lots of head room to pull over), and an invisible zip, I am thinking I might completely unpick the facings and zip at the top of the zip, take out a wedge, and then sew a centre back seam from the neckline, having the back seam operate like a side seam inset zip. I would love opinions on whether you think this would work.


-- Edited on 9/30/13 4:40 AM --

------
the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

Debbie Cook
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Date: 9/29/13 6:40 PM

That would work.

It would also be helpful to see this actually on you, to help you for next time. Right now it kinda looks to me like the neckline stretched. Did you stay stitch it? Or it could be the angle, not the width of your shoulders. Or something else.

In other words ... photos please.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Datcat23
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Date: 9/29/13 6:52 PM

Its on Gertie (my headless friend) but its sitting much the same as it sits on me. When I get around to putting a bra on, I will get hubby to take a photo with it on me. I did stay stitch the neckline, but yes being knit fabric, I would say it's probably stretched.

------
the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

Debbie Cook
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Date: 9/29/13 7:31 PM

When you do get a photo ... get your whole torso, not just a close-up of the problem area. All the parts (shoulders, waist, hips, etc.) affect the sum total.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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In reply to Datcat23 <<


Date: 9/29/13 7:31 PM

yes that's what I'd do - unpick the zip, cut away the seams to create a CB dart and sew the zip back in

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

Datcat23
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Date: 9/29/13 8:05 PM

ok ... here you go, the stance is a bit cupie doll, and it looks not quite right, but sleeves will have a better impact.



I am aware that there is a curve in the centre back, but that worries me less that the gaping at the neckline. If I make this again, I will be redesigning the sewing process, and putting a zip in the side seam.

------
the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

SewLibra
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Date: 9/30/13 0:55 AM

I don't think there is a quick and dirty answer to this. The back from neck to waist is too long for you, and the back is too wide. The waist looks like it's in the right place, though. I would remove the zipper, angle down and cut a lower back neckline and take in the sides of the bodice. You will have to cut the zipper top off to fit the new back neckline. If that isn't enough you will need to take it apart at the waist and deepen the darts.

Oh yeah...call a girl friend and don't rely on hubby for this kind of thing. Been there done that and it doesn't work unless hubby is a designer - LOL. Good luck and it won't be that bad once you get going on the alteration. Looking forward to the end result.

------
SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

Datcat23
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Date: 9/30/13 3:24 AM

Yep ..... lesson learnt. Hubby is good for photography, but not much else. I took in the sides, unpicked the zip, took 1cm off each centre back seam (tapering), recut the neckline lower (I ended up using the size 16 line on the pattern, so that it was even), and lengthened the darts (haven't been pressed yet). The result isn't perfect, but its a darn sight better than before. The neckline still sits out a little, but I think that has a lot to do with the fabric being a knit, and stretching despite staystitching.

------
the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

Datcat23
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Date: 9/30/13 4:43 AM

Well its done (well except for hems and some seam finishes). I really can't face doing anything more on this dress, I am exhausted.



I put the sleeves in. I am aware that I need to fine-tune my armhole placement, but thats a fitting lesson for another dress. This is still a wearable item so I will be happy with that. Now, to cook dinner. *sigh*

------
the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

Red Dragon
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In reply to Datcat23 <<
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Date: 9/30/13 4:53 AM

Well done on getting it done, if a bit quick and dirty. The changes make a fair bit of difference, and its wearable, so all good
Whereabouts are you? There may be someone on PR down under that is nearby.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

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