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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Swayback / Large Butt ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Swayback / Large Butt
svd1502
svd1502
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FL USA
Member since 12/27/10
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Date: 10/2/13 6:22 PM

I have a shift dress pattern consisting of 2 pieces, so I there are only 4 stitch lines. Because I know I have a large butt I added 2 inches to the outseam of the back piece. In my muslin, the lower back was pooling horribly so I made a 2 inch swayback adjustment to the pattern. On the second muslin the butt was too tight again. Was there more I should have done to the swayback adjustment, or will I need to add more width to the outseams? I'm trying not to add any more seams, i.e. a center back seam.
-- Edited on 10/2/13 6:23 PM --

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to svd1502 <<


Date: 10/2/13 6:24 PM

svd, can you post a few pictures? It's easier to help if we can see just where things are working and not working.

svd1502
svd1502
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FL USA
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Date: 10/2/13 6:48 PM

The first muslin was thrown out and the second one was made of dark fabric so you can't see the problems. I will make a fresh muslin soon.

Red Dragon
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Red Dragon
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AUSTRALIA
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In reply to svd1502 <<


Date: 10/2/13 8:13 PM

You may have taken too much out in the swayback adjustment and pulled the hip line up. You may find that darts in the back of the dress work better for you than a fisheye but pics will help. I use both depending on the dress or top.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

Speech girl
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Speech girl  Friend of PR
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In reply to svd1502 <<


Date: 10/2/13 10:58 PM

I have a couple thoughts. I know how hard it is to get the hang of fitting, so I admire that you are determined to solve your issues.

I think you may have taken too much out on the swayback adjustment. 2 inches seems like a lot. I usually only make a small one: somewhere between 3/8 and 5/8 of an inch. I add center back seams most of the time for my swayback adjustment. Don't be afraid of a center back seam if it makes your garment fit better. I often see them on better fitting RTW.
Are there back darts? I have found that, because of my swayback, they are necessary for more fitted tops and dresses in woven fabric. Sometimes with back darts I can avoid a center back seam, but I often have to adjust them a bit.

Also, if you give yourself 1" seam allowances at the side seams, you can make minor fit adjustments if you need a little more room.

Another thought is that the shift dress style may not work the best with your figure as shifts are relatively unfitted at the waist. Maybe a more fitted sheath dress would work better with your swayback?
-- Edited on 10/2/13 11:02 PM --

------
Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

wenznz
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/3/13 0:17 AM

I have had good success using this tutorial by Julia Bobbin for adding extra room for your bottom. I think of it as a FBA - full butt adjustment.
It is for a skirt, but can't see why it shouldn't work for a dress

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 10/3/13 2:27 AM

I have that same issue. In a dresswithout a waistseam I have the philosophy that above the waistline I have too much fabric in hights and below the waistline I don't have enough hights.
I repair that by making the waistdetermination (whether it is by darts or by a curved sideseam) 3cm higher. That same amount is gained for the hights of the skirtpart. For me that is enough.

svd1502
svd1502
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Date: 10/3/13 8:56 AM

Ladies, thanks for your ideas. I am going to tinker with a new muslin and will post pics, and hopefully you all can give me more insight. Thanks again!

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/4/13 4:24 PM

Why don't you put horizontal balance lines (HBL) on your muslin so you can see the issue. Mark a horizontal line where the pattern shows the waist and hip line all the way around. They should be parallel to the floor when you are wearing it. If they aren't, you remove/add length until they are. For example, for a sway back, the line will dip in the back. You will need to remove the amount needed so it becomes parallel to the floor. It wouldn't hurt to put a line at your abs (or between the waist and hip) and/or bust also.

-- Edited on 10/4/13 4:30 PM --

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