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Message Board > Fashion Styles and Trends > Your knit is severely twisted/off grain? ( Moderated by Lynnelle)

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Your knit is severely twisted/off grain?
Here's a possible way to make it work for a top!
goodworks1
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Date: 10/7/13 1:47 PM

Eileen Fisher has a wool/cotton fall/winter knit jersey(?) top that is has a bias cut!

wool/cotton top

I'm trying to figure out how to copy this...

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beauturbo
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Date: 10/7/13 4:00 PM

it looks like the bodice was cut bias, but I also think that one side of it, maybe cut longer than the other side of it.

You can also take any knit pattern bodice and back, and make sliced horizontal cuts into it from one side under the arm holes and maybe down to the hip area, and then just open it out and pull it apart there until the cuts get wider spaces between them, and now you have sort of "twisted" pattern to work with.

This McCalls M6400 pattern would probably be pretty good for some really badly made and twisted knit fabric during manufacture too, just since it's so twisty anyways, probably would not make much of any difference.






I have made that one a few times.

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Date: 10/8/13 8:39 AM

I've been looking at this Eileen Fisher top, too. So many bias cut tops have batwing, dolman, or kimono sleeves. One of the things I like about the EF top is that it appears to have a nice, high armscye with a flattering cut to the sleeve. I'm tempted to order it to be able to really examine how they cut the pieces. I don't know how to adapt a pattern either to make this but would sure love to!

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Date: 10/8/13 12:39 PM

I blew up the photos of the Eileen Fisher top, and it does indeed have armhole seams. the sleeves are cut on the bias, too.

So, have you read Marcy tilton's great Threads article on working with bias (which includes info on converting a straight grain pattern)? If you search the pr Message Board for something like "Tilton bias", you should find a link to the article.

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Date: 10/8/13 3:10 PM

This one, Elona?
Threads Magazine -- Bias

It appears to be mostly for sewing wovens, right?

I think using a knit will add it's own challenges...

Adding a quote from the article:
"When a full pattern piece is placed on the bias, the lengthwise grain will dominate one side of the garment, and the crossgrain, the other. Unless your fabric is stable, the two sides of the garment may hang differently, with one stretching more than the other, and you may get twisting, rippling, and an uncomfortable tug-of-war."

And from another Threads article:
"Unlike woven fabrics, knits have the greatest amount of stretch along the crosswise course; thus, a knitís bias
direction has less stretch than its crosswise direction"
Grainline article, Threads
-- Edited on 10/8/13 3:21 PM --

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AnneM
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Date: 10/8/13 4:18 PM

It strikes me as very odd to do a knit on the bias. The only reason I can think of would be to tilt the print. (Or just buy a diagonal print knit. )

Am I missing something?

Bias wovens can often be slipped on & off without any closures, but this style might be too close fitting for that.

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Date: 10/8/13 4:42 PM

In a discussion about bias-cut knits a few years ago, contourclone said this:

Quote:
Date: 9/28/06 7:39 AM
I've seen many different kinds of knits cut on the bias & they do not have more drape & flow than when they are cut on the straight grain. Due to knit construction, there is no difference in their drape than when cut bias or straight. Woven fibers slip over each other & the angle between the warp & weft changes when hanging on the bias. There is no such change in knits.
(http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl)

Quite some time ago, Marcy Tilton said she couldn't see the point of cutting knits on the bias, since they were already stretchy, though she did appreciate the decorative potential with stripes and certain other patterns.

However, lately I have been seeing more and more RTW bias knits, as well as more sewing articles about putting knits on the bias, though so far it seems to be individuals trying it out for themselves, like these nice articles here and here.

Another lady shows her pretty bias knit experiments here.

Check out this striped Renfrew top on the bias!

Oh, and hotpatterns has a new knit tee pattern with front & back on the bias. Trudy has put a video on youtube about this one.

Based on these women's experiences, I'd have no hesitation about tackling a bias-cut knit garment using a fairly stable knit to start with--choosing a pattern with neutral ease--though I think I'd allow 1" seam allowances for the sake of a little wiggle room on the fit.

I think one way to make a rough check to see if it would work, before cutting into the knit, would be to compare the amount of crosswise stretch with that of a diagonal stretch. Just messing around in my sewing room, I have measured this on a few knits, and found that the amount of stretch tends to be remarkably similar (so far).


-- Edited on 10/8/13 5:55 PM --
goodworks1
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Date: 10/8/13 5:01 PM

Quote: Elona
Based on this lady's experience, I'd have no hesitation about tackling a bias-cut knit garment using a fairly stable knit to start with--choosing a pattern with neutral ease--though I think I'd allow 1" seam allowances for the sake of a little wiggle room on the fit.

I think one way to make a rough check to see if it would work, before cutting into the knit, would be to compare the amount of crosswise stretch with that of a diagonal stretch. Just messing around in my sewing room, I have measured this on a few knits, and found that the amount of stretch tends to be remarkably similar (so far).

I would tend to agree with you on this.

On the other hand, there are lots of types of knits besides the common weft knits like jerseys and many of the current RTW knits with added lycra/elastane.

Raschel knits and some other warp knits are completely different in the way they are made and how they handle and hang/drape.

For more info, I like this article by Sarah Veblen:
Weft and Warp Knits / Threads

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Date: 10/9/13 5:38 PM

Quote: Elona
Another lady shows her pretty bias knit experiments here.

The fabric.com blog post is here, I think.

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Date: 10/9/13 8:56 PM

That is indeed a faster approach, though the same info appears about halfway down the page of the link I provided.

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