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Tweaking pants fit
Question re: taking in hip only
MrsCharisma
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Date: 10/18/13 10:05 AM

I am making pants again!

My pants are almost done (I have the seams all basted) and the waistband feels great. The thighs feel great. But the hip is every so slightly too loose. When I pinch the side seams they look exactly as I'd like them to look.

I need to take in the hips about another 1/8" so 1/2" total. But I don't think I have 1/2" to "give" at the waist and thigh. When I tried to just wing it in was not perfectly smooth. If I had to live with it I could but...if there's a nice simple way to ensure a nice smooth transition between the 5/8" seamline and the 3/4" seam line, I'd be happy
-- Edited on 10/18/13 10:07 AM --

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www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

MrsCharisma
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Date: 10/18/13 10:31 AM

Also, is this pucker an issue of not properly sewing/pressing my dart? Or is the dart...wrong?

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www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

lca
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Date: 10/18/13 2:51 PM

Have you tried the frech curve ruler?
MrsCharisma
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In reply to lca

Date: 10/18/13 3:53 PM

No. I don't own one yet.

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www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

simplystitches
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In reply to MrsCharisma
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Date: 10/18/13 4:32 PM

The dart looks like it's hitting a hollow on your body. You could try making it a smidge longer. Maybe 1" longer.

As far as taking in the hips and not changing the waist you really need a french curve for a smooth transition.

Debbie
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Date: 10/18/13 7:25 PM

Can you try them on inside out and pin the curve you need? It might be different on each side, though...

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MrsCharisma
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Date: 10/18/13 7:45 PM

ooh that's an interesting concept Laura. I will try that.

Thanks Debbie. I wondered if I needed to lengthen or shorten or WHAT

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www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

jmars
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Date: 10/18/13 8:25 PM

I have always needed to take in just the hips when sewing pants. I just put them on, pin them to the shape I want, then take them off, turn them inside out and mark on the inside before removing the pins. Can be a little tricky to keep that curved seam blended, but it can be done. ..I don't own a French curve.
SewLibra
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Date: 10/19/13 0:52 AM

I vote for the french curve. I have to alter all my pants and can't live without my french curve. It really helps with the pucker blues. ;-)

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Debbie Cook
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Date: 10/19/13 1:24 AM

I think what you need is a hip curve ruler, not a true French curve, which is actually a curly-cue shape. The hip curve ruler is a longer, gradual curve.

Hip curve ruler:


French curves:


A combo of both, which you can usually find at Joann's"

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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
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