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Sorbetto
just can't figure out fit for tops
demoiselle
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demoiselle
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Date: 10/30/13 1:15 PM

I'm still struggling to fit a simple top. I just can't figure out what adjustments need to be made and in what order I should do them. Here is the Sorbetto top "straight out of the box" (Size 2 at top grading to a Size 6 at the hip):







This is what I see:
- Bust dart too long (it reaches the apex of my bust).
- Gaping at the neck (front).
- Tenting both to the front and the back (but not wrinkling, the hips are not too narrow this time).
- Upper back too wide (?).

Clearly it is too big right now. How do I know if I'm in the right size and need to do some kind of adjustment, or if I need to go back to the drawing board and trace a size 0? How do I know if I need to do a small bust adjustment, move the dart, and/or do a narrow back or shoulder adjustment?

What order to I adjust in?

I had hoped that the Sorbetto would be simple enough to just go together, and that the alterations would be clear. I'm sorry to ask for so much help, but right now I'm at sea about even how to know if I picked the right size or not.

:-(

-- Edited on 10/30/13 1:17 PM --
-- Edited on 10/30/13 1:17 PM --

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demoiselle
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demoiselle
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Date: 10/30/13 1:22 PM

Hubby, sport that he is, blames the pattern entirely, but I do think I should be able to get a semi-decent fit . . .

ETA: I took 1/4" out of each side seam. It bags less, dart still needs to be moved, there is still a lot of extra fabric in the back that wrinkles up, but I don't think it's catching on my hips . . .
-- Edited on 10/30/13 1:35 PM --

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CSM--Carla
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CSM--Carla  Friend of PR
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In reply to demoiselle <<
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Date: 10/30/13 1:49 PM

You have good questions--no need to apologize--we've all been in your shoes.

To me, it looks pretty good for a first try.

It IS a woven, cut on the grain, without any zipper or button closures, so it can't fit TOO closely.

Maybe consider going down one size on the next muslin. Also consider measuring a RTW woven top that fits you well then measure the pattern and choose a size from there.

I had trouble with the bust dart being too long too. I'll watch this thread for more answers.

For a good fitting overview, I suggest also that you read Peggy Sagers info on how to make fitting adjustments. First Length, then Circumference and then Depth.

Peggy Sagers LCD.

She also has a podcast on her site that explains this thoroughly.

I believe it's this one.




-- Edited on 10/30/13 1:54 PM --
-- Edited on 10/30/13 1:55 PM --

Red Dragon
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Red Dragon
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Date: 10/30/13 8:18 PM

Keeping in mind that this is a simple throw on non-fitted top, the shoulders seem right so try folding and basting the neckline to see if that stops the gaping. You may be able to get away with moving the pleat in a little to adjust the fit if it is just a tiny change. The back looks a little wide, but again, it isn't meant to be fitted. To adjust the dart just shorten it to an inch before the bust apex and you should be good to go.
The fit is way better than the one on mine

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Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

MrsCharisma
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Date: 10/30/13 9:59 PM

I concur with both! You really can't have a pull on woven top be *TOO* fitted or you won't be able to get it on and off! :)

AND, some of that room will be "taken in" when you bind the neck and arms. It doesn't look too big really in the photos, maybe a tiny bit too much room in the back...but I think it looks good.

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Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

LauraTS
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Date: 10/30/13 11:41 PM

I agree; I think it looks remarkably good for a first whack at it. The upper back and back neckline may need to be a tad smaller, and you can adjust the length of the dart, but otherwise this is pretty much how the sorbetto fits - it's made to be a bit loose since it has no closures and is made of a woven. And like mrs c says, once you bind the neckline and armholes you will lose width there.

When I first started fitting myself I really went to town over fitting and not only was it exhausting it didn't give me the style I wanted either. Fabric choice makes a big difference too - something just a tad drapier is so much more flattering. IMO, quilting cotton / muslin doesn't look good on anyone over the age of 10.

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PattiAnnJ
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Date: 10/30/13 11:46 PM

I think it looks fine. Hubby needs to watch more Project Runway (lol).

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"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

demoiselle
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demoiselle
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Date: 10/31/13 7:41 AM

I'll tell him. I've never watched that, so perhaps we both need to watch for some perspective.

Thank you all. I traced the smaller size out last night, so I might make that up to compare the two (it'll be a good learning experience, I suppose--and I have to do a size smaller on the OTHER top I'm working on, too). If smaller doesn't work, I can always go back up . . .
-- Edited on 10/31/13 8:08 AM --

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HarrietHomeowner

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Date: 10/31/13 8:49 AM

My attempt at this looked almost exactly like yours. I think that's just how they are supposed to fit -- whether you like it or not is another matter. (I ended up never wearing mine.) I made it twice -- once as designed and then again in a smaller size with an FBA and shorter bust darts. I still didn't like it. I wrote a review and there's a picture there of the second version, I think.

demoiselle
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demoiselle
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner <<


Date: 10/31/13 8:56 AM

Quote: HarrietHomeowner
My attempt at this looked almost exactly like yours. I think that's just how they are supposed to fit -- whether you like it or not is another matter. (I ended up never wearing mine.) I made it twice -- once as designed and then again in a smaller size with an FBA and shorter bust darts. I still didn't like it. I wrote a review and there's a picture there of the second version, I think.

Maybe I should just take the leap and attempt a button-up blouse . . . it may be that the simpler, pull-over-the-head type will never please me because of the necessity of making them loose-fit.

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Yes, I started a blog.
http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

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