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Forum > Fitting Woes > Grainline after a sway-back alteration? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Grainline after a sway-back alteration?
piakdy
piakdy
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Date: 11/3/13 12:36 PM

OK, question about grainline after doing a sway back alteration...

I've tried the suggestion to fix the sway back with an even tuck at the waist then adding the length back at the hem. But that left a puddle of fabric at CB between the waist & the hip. So I had to go back to the uneven tuck (horizontal dart). I've done it so the CB piece gets even tucks (at blade level & just below the waist - previous striped top seem to indicate the above the waist problem starts at the blade level). Then the side back gets the wedge / dart shape tuck. So grainline on CB isn't affected. But what do I do with the grainline on the side back?

Sarah Veblen's 'The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting' says to follow the vertical grainline of the bottom section (ie adjust the top grainline). This means crossgrain is straight at the hip, but tilted from waist up like this....



Draping books tend to have the crossgrain straight at the blade level (which means an uneven hemline in this case). Does it matter which way I go?What would you do?

simplystitches
simplystitches
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In reply to piakdy <<
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Date: 11/3/13 2:26 PM

Quote:
I've done it so the CB piece gets even tucks (at blade level & just below the waist - previous striped top seem to indicate the above the waist problem starts at the blade level). Then the side back gets the wedge / dart shape tuck.


I think the fact that you took an even tuck out if cb is what's creating the horizontal grain line problem with the sb piece. That can take a pretty severe wedge out of the sb piece.
You should have taken a wedge all the way across.

Line the seam lines up at cb and sb and take the wedge all the way across instead. Use the lower grain to true up the upper. I think you'll see the hbl's balanced after that.

Debbie
Debbie Cook
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Date: 11/3/13 2:37 PM

Quote: simplystitches
You should have taken a wedge all the way across.

I disagree. She didn't need the wedge all the way across.

To the OP:
Set the vertical grain perpendicular to the hem. (1) You don't want a jaggy hem ... think about a plaid or stripe to visualize that ... and (2) the resulting horizontal grain will be correct for YOUR body ... without the adjustment, the horizontal grain was already crooked on YOUR body, right? I hope this is not too simplistic an explanation and you understand what I'm trying to convey.

------
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

piakdy
piakdy
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 11/3/13 4:43 PM

If I took the wedge all the way across I'd still have the same problem, but the problem would apply to both the CB & the side back pieces. I'd still need to figure out where the cross grain should be parallel to the floor - hip, waist, bust, or cross back?

For this moulage pattern (skin-tight) I've taken 3/4" total from CB (3/8" at underarm level, 3/8" just below the waist). The pattern looks a bit funny because my bottom seem to protrude more towards the back than the sides - bustle-style I suppose.

Real bodies get so confusing to fit - not like those perfect examples in books or on the dress form!

piakdy
piakdy
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In reply to Debbie Cook <<


Date: 11/3/13 4:50 PM

OK, so you agree with Sarah Veblen, right?

I was just a bit worried since the patterns look so weird. Making the hip parallel to the floor leaves my back pieces with almost no shoulder dart shaping. I had thought I have rounded upper back & need a deeper shoulder dart. So was a bit confused.

If it were 2-piece (ie with waist seam) I suppose I could have the cross-grain parallel to the floor at the hip for the skirt and at the shoulder blade for the top. That would preserve the shoulder dart shaping. But I couldn't figure out what to do if I wanted a fitted one-piece dress with no waist seam.

Debbie Cook
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In reply to piakdy <<
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Date: 11/3/13 5:32 PM

Quote: piakdy
OK, so you agree with Sarah Veblen, right?

Basically.

When you make alterations, you have to reestablish the grain. And you do that by drawing a line perpendicular to the hem. It doesn't matter what the horizontal line at the hip *used to be.* You are establishing a *new* vertical grain line because you have essentially created a new pattern. After establishing the vertical ... then make your horizontal landmarks. Again, it doesn't matter what the horizontals *used to be.*

------
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Rosalaya
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Date: 11/7/13 8:36 PM

I find this article "http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com.au/2010/12/sway-back-alterations-my-analysis.html"

to be most helpful.

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