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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Update to my dress for brother's wedding-more help please? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Update to my dress for brother's wedding-more help please?
KamiSue2
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KamiSue2  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/5/13 4:26 PM

Okay, I followed everyone's advice and pinned an inch out of the waist. That worked like a dream! Totally took care of the wrinkles at the back.

Here's the pictures (thanks for the help with the pictures too!)
front with inch out, no sleeves
Back with inch out no sleeves
I think the "V" wrinkle in the back is simply from me pinning the zipper all wonky.
3/8
But see it still seemed to have extra fabric in the front stomach/underbust region.
Extra pouffy material or overfitting?
So then I pinned out 3/8 in on both sides of the front pattern piece (I left the back the same.)

With 3/8 taken out of waist on front pattern piece.

Here's the result. Did I over fit it here?

Also, I sewed in the sleeves and that changed a lot of things. Argghhhhh!!!!

inch removed, sleeves on
inch removed sleeves on front.

Looking at those pictures, I think I over fitted in the stomach area.

Also the sleeves seem to come up too high under my arms--slightly cutting in fact. And now the fabric seems stretched too tight across my shoulders. I chose the size using Nancy Zieman's method because that's supposed to make it so you don't have to adjust the shoulders---errrr…. And what's with the wrinkles going from my shoulders to the bust now?!?!?

And to answer your questions about the fabric and things, I was planning on lining it. And the fabric is a sateen cotton twill--but it's a much lighter weight than most twills, but definitely heavier than for instance, a sateen cotton that I bought in the quilting section of Joanns.



-- Edited on 11/5/13 4:34 PM --
-- Edited on 11/5/13 4:36 PM --

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Subject: Update to my dress for brothers wedding-more help please? Date: 11/5/13 4:59 PM

Are your sleeves sewn in two different ways? See how much better the left sleeve looks? That's because the seam allowance is to the outside. When you sew in the real sleeve, you can trim the seam allowance to 1/4" under the arm, which will relieve a lot of the strain that you see in the right sleeve.

It does look like you over fitted it. Since this is going to be lined, you'll need more breathing room.
-- Edited on 11/5/13 5:01 PM --

------
Debbie

Linda T in TN
Linda T in TN
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Date: 11/5/13 5:12 PM

Be sure you sit down before you decide if there is enough ease in the tummy and hips. In a sheath-type dress, being able to actually sit is really important. Don't ask me how I know!

Linda in TN

CM_Sews
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Date: 11/5/13 6:58 PM

Quote: Linda T in TN
Be sure you sit down before you decide if there is enough ease in the tummy and hips. In a sheath-type dress, being able to actually sit is really important. Don't ask me how I know!


Linda in TN

Oh, ditto, ditto!

Sit down (gracefully, one hopes) AND: stand up again, get into and out of a pew in a church, walk some distance, dance, get into a car, get out of a car, walk up steps and walk down steps, use the Ladies facilities. If your dress is so fitted that any of these activities in problematical, you will not be totally comfortable during the event.

CMC
KamiSue2
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Date: 11/5/13 8:25 PM

But what about the shoulders and the wrinkles from the shoulders to bust? What do I do? I really have no idea. Can I just sew the sleeves on with a 3/8 in seam allowance instead of 5/8th?

sings2high
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Subject: Update to my dress for brothers wedding-more help please? Date: 11/5/13 8:36 PM

You had extra in the front, but now it's too tight across the front bust as well as around the armholes. I suggest you release what you pinched out under the arms and instead, make the two front darts deeper. You can even curve them in or out (or both!), whatever looks nicest for your body. That will take out the extra at midriff and waist but leave in the design ease at the bust and relax the tightness across the upper chest and sleeves.

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Measure twice, cut once. While this saying is useful in many ways, I have no qualms about editing my posts.

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simplystitches
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In reply to KamiSue2 <<


Date: 11/5/13 8:44 PM

Quote:
But what about the shoulders and the wrinkles from the shoulders to bust?


I think those may be from the underarm being tight.

Try trimming the seam down on one side and see if that helps.

If that's not enough try sewing the underarm from notch to notch slightly deeper, maybe 1/4" and trim or clip.

[/QUOTE] Can I just sew the sleeves on with a 3/8 in seam allowance instead of 5/8th[QUOTE]

That will actually make the underarm even tighter because you're actually taking out less fabric.

How does the sleeve itself fit? It looks like it's slightly snug.

Debbie
a7yrstitch
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Date: 11/5/13 11:13 PM

Are you pinning and fitting with the underpinnings you have selected for the day?

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

emm0119
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In reply to KamiSue2 <<


Date: 11/5/13 11:44 PM

To my eye it looks like you don't have enough height/width in the sleeve cap/around the bicep. It looks like the sleeve is pulling on the bodice causing all the new issues. You could try slashing the sleeve to see if that relaxes things. The sleeves are definitely dragging the armscye and shoulder down, causing those folds above the bust. Are the two sleeves eased in differently? It looks like the fabric is distributed differently, beyond just the difference in seam being inside/outside.
-- Edited on 11/5/13 11:45 PM --

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~Erin~
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Patti B
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Subject: Update to my dress for brothers wedding-more help please? Date: 11/6/13 8:39 AM

First off, you are very close to your goal! Try slipping a light shoulder pad under your muslin and see if those wrinkles dissipate. I am always amazed at the impact of a thin shoulder pad; it just makes the bodice fit better everywhere on me. I think Debbie is on to something with her comments about the sleeve seam. Once you have sewn and trimmed it on the 'real' dress, it should be good.

------
Patti

R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success

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