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Forum > Fitting Woes > NYDJ or your mother's either! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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NYDJ or your mother's either!
Pant length proportions
alpenrose
alpenrose  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/5/14 3:43 PM

Hello:

Daughter bought me two new pairs of NYDJ for Christmas (I'am a lucky mom). However, as always they are about 6 inches too long! Last year, before my return to sewing, the gal in the laundry shortened my pants too much and they look awful. This year I will now be able to do the work myself.

Question: Is there a standard formula for proportion of pant leg. In other words on a straight leg pant at what point should there be a taper? it appears on these jeans that there is a slight bulge--didn't notice it until I folded the extra fabric under-- just up from the ankle. It is not the bulging fabric, but rather a place in the seam where it is just a little wider. I am wondering why this would be here if they are not boot length. There must also be a proportion from knee to ankle a place at which you would best take in the seam a little to get the look when shortening the pant. Does that make sense to anyone? Any suggestions will be much appreciated. I have lost a little weight--that combined with the way too short water walking boot width (20inch) pants I have been wearing forced daughter to take mom shopping !! Hooray ;-)

SewLibra
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SewLibra  Friend of PR
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In reply to alpenrose <<
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Date: 1/6/14 0:46 AM

I don't know about that bulge in the pant legs, but I have tapered and shortened pants for myself and my mom for years. First, try on the pants with shoes of the same heel height you intend to wear with them. I like the back of the hem to be about 1/2" from the bottom of the heel. The front hem should touch the top of your shoe, or even slightly "buckle" on the top if you like that look. Pin where you like it, fold up and press. Cut the excess leaving enough to hem it the way it came. I always try to make the very same looking hem so no one knows.

Turn the pants inside out, get your ruler, chalk, and pins. Smooth the outside seams so there are no wrinkles or puckers. Where you start to mark depends on how the pants fit you. If they are too wide in the thigh, start there. If you only want below the knee tapered, start at the knee. Begin the chalk (or fabric pen) at that point on the seam stitches and graduate to the hem with your ruler. Use the same circumference as a favorite pair of jeans/pants to make sure you can get your foot in! Do the same to the other side.

Pin, machine baste.

Now you're ready for the inside seams. Same procedure but many times you don't start your chalk as far up the leg. That might make it too tight in the knee or not proportioned right. You want a very gradual angle for all this so it will hang properly and your seams remain straight.

Try on your pants and if all is well, serge the seams and hem the pants. You didn't say if they are flat-felled seams. I hope not, because this method won't work with those!

I hope this wasn't too confusing.

------
SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

dresscode

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Date: 1/6/14 6:41 AM

That brand does manufacture petite lengths....I normally order from Nordstrom or Macy's. They have a very high Lycra content and are prone to "picks"....also try to avoid too much heat from dryers.

KathySews
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Date: 1/6/14 6:46 AM

I like my length about the same as SewLibra

Here is a VIDEO of the method I use to hem jeans. I like keeping the look of the original hem. An additional tip from Angela Wolf is to pound that thick seam with a hammer. Fun and it works to reduce the bulk a little.

Molliefran
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Subject: NYDJ or your mothers either! Date: 1/6/14 7:52 AM

I launder and damp dry my jeans before hemming. They usually shrink a bit.

------
"This is the day that The Lord has made. I will rejoice and be glad in it!"
Building my stable one machine at a time: Viking circa 1975, Viking Sapphire 870, Bernina 1130, Huskylock 905, Babylock: Sophia2, Evolve, Embellisher & Sashiko
Most prized possession: Grandmother's Singer treadle machine with the drawers filled with her things, just like she left them.

alpenrose
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Date: 1/6/14 4:15 PM

THank you all--thanks to your guidance I have found several very different videos about hemming jeans--just have to make up my mind and go for it.

Happy New Year to all and thank you again,

chgh
chgh
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SWEDEN
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Date: 1/6/14 4:51 PM

Unfortunately, there is no universal formula for this. You will have to measure your length and knee height on your own body to get the best proportions. I have long upper thighs and short lower legs. Someone else might have it the other way around. Perhaps you could put on a fitting pair of pants and mark the knee bend with a needle and measure it afterwards.
/ CG

gramma b
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gramma b
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Date: 1/7/14 7:40 AM

Shorter people, you are lucky!
Way back they used to give you 2"+ on pants hems
that could be let out (if you could get rid of that crease)
but no more. If they have tall pants they often charge more.

Then there are the Tops that only go to the waist.
In my family the women are not over 5'9" either....
With today's teens being over 6', I wonder why there are
still Petite depts. everywhere but no Talls? Someone is
missing a big market.

Sandygirl
Sandygirl
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In reply to dresscode <<


Date: 1/7/14 7:45 AM

Quote: dresscode
That brand does manufacture petite lengths....I normally order from Nordstrom or Macy's. They have a very high Lycra content and are prone to "picks"....also try to avoid too much heat from dryers.




I have 2 pair of this brand. Petites. MEACH style fits differently. Perhaps you need to go try on others to get the fit that works for you. Every body-leg is different proportion. I dream of being "leggy" and tall!

LOVE THIS BRAND! It is the only time my DH compliments me on my jeans...they fit that great!

Sandy

------
Janome-gal. 9700, 9900, 1030, 11000D (serger)

Sandygirl
Sandygirl
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In reply to gramma b <<


Date: 1/7/14 7:52 AM

Quote: gramma b
Shorter people, you are lucky!

Way back they used to give you 2"+ on pants hems

that could be let out (if you could get rid of that crease)

but no more. If they have tall pants they often charge more.



Then there are the Tops that only go to the waist.

In my family the women are not over 5'9" either....

With today's teens being over 6', I wonder why there are

still Petite depts. everywhere but no Talls? Someone is

missing a big market.


Not really....it is very rare that a petite fits me. Never in tops...i am a D cup! I have a long waist, (cant wear dresses...), my arm length is standard...my legs are short(29" inseam with heels!). IF my legs were longer, I would be more proportioned! Every brand and style fits differently. I HATE clothes shopping. NYDJ offers a great fit . Worth the $$$.
Sandy

------
Janome-gal. 9700, 9900, 1030, 11000D (serger)

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