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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > How do sleeves work?

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How do sleeves work?
Completely confused
Jenniel73
Jenniel73  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
District of Columbia USA
Member since 10/19/13
Posts: 103
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Date: 1/24/14 3:00 PM

for the life of me I cannot figure out how a sleeve pattern works. My 9 year old is big enough to wear small womens bodice patterns if I alter the neckline and the sleeves. Or I have been trying to grade up some of the patterns she has grown out of but copying, cutting, retracing is getting a bit monotonous. So I was hoping to be able to skip a step by just sketching out a sleeve pattern rather than trace, grade etc. my thought process was that sleeves/sleeve patterns would just be the curve in the "armpit" area when laying out the bodice pieces "attached" at the shoulder...I mean if you cut up a shirt and lay it out that is what it looks like, right? But this doesn't seem to be the answer I found out after ruining a super cute shirt with screwed up sleevesI've searched and searched the internet. I've found lots of sloper instructions and copying existing shirt sleeves. I came home early from work to take care of sick kids so I decided pull out one of my patterns put the bodice pieces together then lay the sleeve pattern on top. This didn't help to clarify things. It makes nooooo sense to me how sleeves work! I cannot wrap my brain around them! Please help!

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Jennie, Washington DC

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/24/14 4:22 PM

Look at silhouettepatterns.com. One of her free webcasts is on drafting sleeve/armholes.
-- Edited on 1/24/14 4:24 PM --

frame
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frame
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Date: 1/24/14 8:01 PM

Silhouette patterns is a great place to look. Peggy does a great explanation on how to size and shape sleeves to bodices and how they fit.

Silhouette Patterns Webcasts

If you scroll down the left column to April 1, Peggy did a webcast called "The Sleeve: Up, Down and All Around." You can watch anytime. It's free and you can watch it over and over. I think she starts around 25 minutes in with the french curve and measuring sleeve openings - just in case you get tired of hearing her answer questions and sell patterns.I like all her webcasts although I've yet to use one of her patterns.
-- Edited on 1/24/14 8:05 PM --

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"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

SewLibra
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SewLibra  Friend of PR
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In reply to Jenniel73 <<
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Date: 1/25/14 1:04 AM

Just looking at a sleeve or sleeve pattern can be deceiving. To the naked eye it may look like a "hump" with equal curves to each side, but usually those curves are slightly different. The front part of the sleeve that attaches to the armscye is more curved than the back portion to allow for ease of movement.

There are many Internet and magazine articles on this, and here is one of them: How To Draft A Sleeve Pattern. I hope it helps!

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SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

goal100
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Date: 1/25/14 4:41 AM

Thanks for asking the question, and thanks for the replies! This helps get some UFOs on the table and worked out! Many, many thanks!

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Brenda

From stash in 2012: 15 m sewn

Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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Date: 1/25/14 9:24 AM

I agree with goal100 -- thanks so much for these links! The blog tutorial is great, and that Silhouette Patterns list of links is a treasure trove.

------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

Jenniel73
Jenniel73  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
District of Columbia USA
Member since 10/19/13
Posts: 103
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Date: 1/25/14 2:34 PM

Omg! That totally made sense! I think I finally "get" it! Thanks for the reminder about those webcasts! Those have actually taught me more the ton of bucks I've spent on craftsy classes!

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Jennie, Washington DC

Mole Princess
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Date: 1/29/14 1:30 AM

A shirt with a deep armhole will often have a sleeve cap that fits closely into the curve of the joined front and back; the ease for moving around inside the garment comes from the sheer size of the armhole, and also, often the shoulder is somewhat dropped and so the bicep is even occupying part of the body of the shirt. So the sleeve doesn't have to be specially fitted to accommodate it. But w/ a small, curved armhole, especially set far in, so that the arm joint and the whole bicep are very much inside the sleeve, which may be on the narrow side lower down, the sleeve head has to contain enough extra height and width to go over the bicep and shoulder, and this means it won't be the same shape as the armhole anymore.

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