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Polyester crepe dress - best way to hem
bijou13
bijou13
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Date: 2/17/14 5:25 AM

Hi. I am about 2/3 the way through constructing a sheath style dress which is fully lined. Sleeveless, fitted style with a kick pleat vent at the hemline centre back.One of the pattern fabric suggestions was crepe so I've chosen a polyester crepe. I'm really pleased with the way it is coming together however as I am fast approaching the hemline I was wondering what is the best hem to sew. I chose this fabric because it doesn't crush however I quickly realised that this is both a blessing and a curse. No matter what I do, I can't press a nice crease, which is what I want when I turn up the hemline. Any sewing suggestions or pressing tips would be appreciated.

petro
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Date: 2/17/14 7:40 AM

Have you tried fusing a strip of interfacing in the hem? That might help. I'd test on a scrap first.

tateelliott

tateelliott
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Date: 2/17/14 5:47 PM

I'm sure others here will have better answers for you, I sew men's clothes, but here's my first thoughts.

Maybe a thin strip of Wonder Under or Steam A Seam or that type of product to hold the hem in place while you sew it. Or, my favorite, a washable glue stick.

Tate

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Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 2/17/14 6:50 PM

I'd make a facing. Pressing along the seam line should give you a crisp hem.

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beauturbo
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Date: 2/17/14 7:51 PM

I think I would just go with a softly folded hem instead. and hand hem that in. Maybe if you want it even softer, you could interline it with something a bit fuzzy there, like a strip of cotton flannel or something like that. Just because I think polyester most times melts pretty easy with high heat. If you get an iron on it, hot enough to iron a crease into it (or at least if I did, and I'm pretty heavy handed with an iron with heat, and have to watch that on my self) at that point I could probably get a crease, but at the same time it really might be more permanent melted in, and the crepy-ness would be softened and melted out of it there even.

So I do think properties of the fabric, might be both a blessing and curse at the same time even.
-- Edited on 2/17/14 7:52 PM --

bijou13
bijou13
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Date: 2/18/14 1:26 AM

I have just tried all of your suggestions on scrap fabric.....and the award for best result goes to......"Fusible interfacing". Just brilliant! I cut a strip of a medium weight interfacing twice the width of my hem depth and fused this to the wrong side of the fabric matching the raw hem edge with the interfacing edge. I then folded up my hem allowance (5cm) and pressed a beautiful crisp edge. My fabric is heavy enough that the interfacing doesn't cast a shadow on the right side of the hemline and the result isn't bulky. I am now going to add a thin strip of interfacing around the neck and armhole edges also. Hopefully this will give a similar crisp result to those edges too. I will post a pattern review when I'm finished and include this tip for others who are struggling with this type of fabric. Thank you soooooo much for all your replies.

emmasgranny
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In reply to bijou13 <<


Date: 2/18/14 2:06 AM

How about a rolled hem done w /a serger..It woukd reduce any bulk around that lower edge.

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