SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Fitting Woes > Copying pants that fit ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Copying pants that fit
better to grade up or grade down?
Barbara R
star
Barbara R
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 77
Send Message

      



Date: 3/2/14 3:38 PM

I finally found commercial pants that fit really well, but of course (my constant luck) they have been discontinued. The main thing they do for me is hang on grain - for some reason, all other commercial pants and even ones I make from patterns need significant alterations for the grain to hang perpendicular to the floor. So finding pants that hang correctly is a holy grail for me.

I can buy one of the remaining pairs in XS or 1XL - my size is M. I want to cut them apart and make a master pattern that fits. Would you suggest grading up from XS or down from 1XL?

Thanks -- Barbara

Michelle L
starstarstar
Michelle L
Intermediate
Missouri USA
Member since 1/20/08
Posts: 1301
Send Message

      



In reply to Barbara R <<
thumbsup 3 members like this.


Date: 3/2/14 4:44 PM

If you have a pair that fits, why not just copy them? You don't have to take apart a pair to make a pattern. There are tons of different ways to copy a pattern. I have used painter's tape to make a copy, by covering each section with tape, peeling it off, and tracing around it for a pattern. I have also laid large sheets of paper over foam core, pushed pins in through the seams of the garment into the foam core, and then used the pinholes as guides to "connect the dots."

I am sure that others have alternate methods.

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Barbara R
star
Barbara R
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 77
Send Message

      



In reply to Michelle L <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 3/2/14 4:53 PM

Yes, I know, but honestly I think it will be faster to cut them apart. They are knit, and I know I could do it, but I think cutting and then grading would be more successful. But if others continue to suggest copying, I will have to rethink. Thanks!

simplystitches
simplystitches
New York USA
Member since 2/12/06
Posts: 1458
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 3/2/14 7:55 PM

I agree with Michelle. Copy the pair that fits.

While pattern grading is fairly simple there's no guarantee that it was done the same way that you'd do it.

I've copied a good fitting pant and still had to make some fit adjustments, mostly due to fabric differences. If you grade up a smaller pair who's to say if it's a fit adjustment or a grading error?

Debbie

SouthernStitch
starstarstar
SouthernStitch  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 10178
Send Message

      



Date: 3/3/14 0:52 AM

It may be worthwhile to take Kenneth King's Craftsy class on this very thing. Copying pants. He says that when you take them apart, they can stretch and get distorted. I would think this would be doubly so for a knit pant.
Otherwise, you could get the XS and grade up, as they may stretch when you take them apart. OTOH, if you get the larger ones, you could always lay yours on top of each piece to get an idea of how much to remove.
I would measure very carefully the pair you have now. That will help tremendously. And since they hang so well on you, mark and transfer that grainline carefully on your pattern. Good luck!

------
Bernina 780, and 530
Juki TL2010
Babylock Evolution
Singer 403a

When life gives you green velvet curtains, make a green velvet dress.

kcurtis
kcurtis  Friend of PR
Advanced
Colorado USA
Member since 12/15/12
Posts: 520
Send Message

      
thumbsup 2 members like this.



Date: 3/3/14 4:19 AM

I just copied one of my wife's skirts. It has 5 different panels and zero darts with a zipper on the backside. She really likes this style over the skirts with darts.

It has 1/2" seams throughout. I made my seams 3/4" and then I did the basting stitch using a 1/2" seam allowances. This added plenty of room to do a fitting. I then had her put it on wrong side out and I pin marked it to fit her perfectly. I had her sit to ensure fitting as well. I measured the bottom and top width of each panel. This made it easy to draw a new pattern. The end result was a perfect fit.

------
Just a hack that sews for a living. ;)

KathySews
star
KathySews  Friend of PR
Advanced
Michigan USA
Member since 10/1/06
Posts: 3936
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 3/3/14 7:47 AM

I also suggest Kennith King's cloning classes. I just checked and his Cloning Your Favorite Garment is on sale here at PR for $19.99

His method is hands down the best method, and you do not ruin your garment. If the pants are worth copying, this is a reasonable investment. There are so many tips and you can clone the pants as you go along with the class.

Flying Seamstress
star
Flying Seamstress  Friend of PR
Advanced
South Carolina USA
Member since 2/5/08
Posts: 168
online now
Send Message

      



In reply to Michelle L <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 3/3/14 10:48 AM

Like the foam core idea! I plan to give this a try. Thank you for sharing!

Gail

Barbara R
star
Barbara R
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 77
Send Message

      



Date: 3/3/14 1:16 PM

Thanks, all. I'm still torn. I have Kenneth's Craftsy class and also his PR cloning class. The Craftsy class focuses on jeans, which is great, but these pants are knit, with an elastic waistband, back dart (I know how to deal with that) and a tummy stay between the pockets that is also knit. So there's just a lot going on. Will continue to ponder and review the PR class, which I haven't looked at in ages. Thanks again.

Barbara R
star
Barbara R
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 77
Send Message

      



Date: 3/3/14 9:58 PM

Well as it turns out, they now have another pair available in my size in a different color! Plus a pair in Large. Maybe people are sending in returns. So I ordered both of these and if the large are in fact too big, I will take them apart. It should be pretty easy to grade from L to M, and worth it to me! Time is money - copying a pair will take me hours. Thanks again, folks!

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Copying pants that fit

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Break your Serger Out of the Box
Break your Serger Out of the Box

Register

Fun with Fitting - PANTS
Fun with Fitting - PANTS

Register

Ottobre Design Magazine 04-2010-18

photo
by: myraminx

Review
Shapes Three Fold Vest Pattern

Shapes Three Fold Vest Pattern

Buy Now
PerfectFuseTailorUltra White

PerfectFuseTailorUltra White

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.