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Forum > Fitting Woes > Petite sloper - can't fit bodice ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Petite sloper - can't fit bodice
Petite fitting
sewer859
sewer859
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Virginia USA
Member since 5/3/07
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Date: 3/12/14 10:05 PM

I've tried pattern after pattern and can't get ANYTHING above the waist to fit. I've finally decided to go back to the beginning and do a sloper. I've found that I am fairly 'normal' in size [5'2", 110 lbs] except that I am short between my bustline and upper shoulder. Every adjustment line that I've ever seen makes the bodice adjustment under the bustline. I need to somehow shorten the length between the bust point and shoulder seam. On a normal sloper, there's way too much material where a hollow chest diagram points to. The neckline is at my chin, but the armholes are the correct height. If I do a horizontal cut and lower everything, there's no material there (just air) to sew a shoulder seam and the armhole is too small. I also need to decrease the width of the bodice front - the bust point is correct, the side seam is correct, the armhole is in the correct place, but the side front to CF is too wide, the shoulder seam is too long both at the armscye and at the neckline. I'm using a size 8 sloper and have a 34 inch bustline. I could put a softball above each breast on each side because there's so much extra material there. If I lowered the neckline and could get rid of this wad of material on each side of the bodice, the sloper would fit. Ever time I do one alteration, it makes another seam too short. Any advice?

kajero
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In reply to sewer859 <<


Date: 3/12/14 11:26 PM

Although I weigh a lot more than you, I have the same issues getting the patterns to fit above the waist.

I haven't found a viable solution. I hope someone replies!

------
Kathy

My Personal Blog: kathysthreads.wordpress.com
My sewing dream: Make a really great fitting pair of pants!

chenille
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Date: 3/12/14 11:32 PM

I am also short shoulder to waist, and you are right - the lengthen/shorten lines aren't in the right place or not in enough places. It does sound like you need to remove length through the mid upper chest. If that shortens your armhole too much, you can always lower it as needed.

If you need help drafting your own sloper, Craftsy has a number of classes that deal with that and has the advantage of being able to ask questions of the instructor.

Here's a link for some general petite adjustments

michellep74
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Subject: Petite sloper - cant fit bodice Date: 3/12/14 11:56 PM

Have you tried any of the SBCC patterns, which are drafted specifically for petites?

They have a free t-shirt download available, and it's fit many of us petites quite well with minimal adjustments.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

KiwiWendy
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Date: 3/13/14 0:25 AM

I'm just under 5'3" and definitely short waisted.

I always fold out a 1-1.5cm between shoulder & underarm ... you can add a shorten line yourself! I place it so it's below the neckline. If your armhole depth is already correct, you'd need to then lower the armscye by the amount you've folded out further up. (I don't have to do this). I also have to take out 4cm between underarm and waist.

I have to narrow the shoulders 1.5-2cm, cos I have crazy narrow shoulders.

------
Sydney, Australia

Red Dragon
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Date: 3/13/14 1:09 AM

Would a fish eye dart work, like you do for a swayback in pants? fisheye example
It would allow you to keep the sides the same, but adjust through the centre of the fabric.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

jenleeC
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jenleeC  Friend of PR
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In reply to sewer859 <<


Date: 3/13/14 2:00 AM

Sewer859 I am very close to your height and weight (5'2" and 116lb), and like you am short between the bust and shoulder but not between bust and waist where the shorten lines are typically shown on patterns. Chenille's link is one of the better petite alteration diagrams I have seen. Do have a good read of that link as it sets out the various possible alterations quite well.

Using those references, I find I need to do alteration B, removing around 1-2cm, and for a sleeveless top or dress also alteration A, removing around 1cm. Like you I find the front of standard patterns too wide and routinely remove 2cm from CF, alteration E. It sounds like you might need to do both E and D to narrow your front pattern piece. Some people find they need to lower the armhole after these alterations but I don't find I need to as the armholes are ordinarily to big for me.

As far as your comment that doing one alteration seems to alter another area, the general rule is to get the height alterations correct first and then deal with the width.

------
Jenny, Perth, WA

sewsally
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Subject: Petite sloper - cant fit bodice Date: 3/13/14 11:30 AM

Cynthia Guffey, teacher from Louisiana, would recommend "petiting" the armhole."

Fold and pin out the extra fabric horizontally across the front and back above the armhole. Fold out the same amount across the sleeve head. Now you have a new pattern.

KiwiWendy
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In reply to jenleeC <<


Date: 3/13/14 6:50 PM

Thanks for pointing out Chenille's link (missed it earlier).

I should point out that the only reason I don't do A is because my neck is larger than normal (I'm stocky boned but petite proportions height wise ... the old half size patterns are great for me).

------
Sydney, Australia

chenille
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Date: 3/13/14 11:57 PM

We are all so different where we need the petite adjustments. I normally need to take out at least an inch through the CB, but not always through the center front. If I did need to take out from CF, I would have to replace that width at the side seam.
I'm curious - what is your shoulder point to shoulder point measurement and what size do you use for a top?
I measure 14 " with a 4" shoulder, that would put me in the size 2-4 size for shoulders and I need a size 12-14 to fit a top I think I read somewhere that the big 4 use a 16" shoulder width for drafting - but don't remember where I read that.
I have a new Coco dress cut out where I actually just cut a size 1 from the top to the armhole markers and then graded out to between a 3-4 (pattern is sized from 1-8 review here ) I am hoping it all works out. It is a knit and I don't think I could get by doing that with a woven. Fingers crossed!

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