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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > scooping the crotch vs darted wedge

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scooping the crotch vs darted wedge
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/27/14 7:23 AM

could someone clarify for me the difference between scooping out the crotch to make it longer - vs making a wedge in the center back by starting with adding a dart in the cb seam (on the pattern) and extending it to the side seams where it would taper to nothing?

I'm beginning to think my sewing style is 'sew and throw'. out of all the projects I've attempted over the past year - I think I may have actually liked them enough to have worn may be one or two. The rest of them are either rags somewhere or sitting in a pile. this is shirts and tops also, but mostly pants.

my issue is always the center back rise on pants.

I am over 30 (well over 30) and I read somewhere that the crotch scoop may be what I need. I'm assuming because of the gravitational pull.

so I guess I don't understand the concept of scooping. The dart thing I get. That does add length........ but perhaps I need to scoop? once I know what it accomplishes.

Annette Wright
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Date: 5/27/14 7:28 AM

I make the wedge. I did 1.5" (in 3 1/2" segments) in my last pair of pants. I never have enough length in the back.

------
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blue mooney
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Date: 5/27/14 8:46 AM

Scooping changes the shape of the crotch curve because you are carving out more of a dip. Slicing to the side seam and adding a wedge adds length without changing the shape of the curve.

Pants are trial and error but once you have a pair that works you can use that pattern for a looooong time, just changing the leg width, pockets, etc to change the style. Don't give up! Find some cheap and ugly fabric to make tests with. Leave out zippers and pockets in your test pairs so they take less time to stitch up. Try different alterations and compare.

Good luck!

------
--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
other artwork blogged here: http://robynjorde.com/blog/

avatrx

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In reply to Annette Wright <<


Date: 5/27/14 8:47 AM

was it necessary to do the 'scooping' thing also?

I have a muslin that I cut as shorts so I didn't waste the fabric. I don't have anyone to cut it while I have them on so not sure where to do the wedge.

when you say you did it in 3.5" segments, not sure what you mean? I saw a photo of where they measured and cut.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cgr1f7coibxr3x4/sandra%20betzina%20jeans%20increasing%20the%20back%20rise..pdf

wedge

avatrx

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In reply to blue mooney <<
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Date: 5/27/14 8:51 AM

this is just getting too frustrating! this has been a terrible year for me and I was hoping to get a decent pants pattern to keep my mind off all the bad stuff. this seems to be adding to everything.

I wish there was SOMEONE around here that sewed something other than quilts. Even the local schools don't have anyone. I keep asking at the fabric stores and short of driving 75 miles into Chicago - I just can't find anyone.

I have so many failures. At some point it reaches Einsteins definition of insanity

carolynw
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Date: 5/27/14 9:58 AM

Know exactly where you are coming from - in my case, and maybe in yours too, it is a matter of my being too dam critical of what I make. I did a reality check recently by trying on clothes in a bit of an upscale department store - came running home to kiss my machines.

Bad fit in pants with side seam pockets hanging akwardly and off grain in-seams that ruffled their way to the hem- blouses that should have fit nicely just didn't despite the hefty price tags!

Try doing this and I hope you may feel a lot different about the clothes you sew.

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 5/27/14 10:45 AM

That is one reason why you are doing a muslin. Try the scoop and if that doesn't do it for you, then do the split method.

The scoop is something like this - u versus U and should give you more bumm room.

------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

"Isnít it a shame in todayís world you canít tell the truth? If you tell the truth youíre abrasive. If you lie youíre charming." - Bob Huggins/College Basket Ball Coach

PattiAnnJ
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In reply to avatrx <<
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Date: 5/27/14 10:49 AM

Quote: avatrx
I wish there was SOMEONE around here that sewed something other than quilts. Even the local schools don't have anyone. I keep asking at the fabric stores and short of driving 75 miles into Chicago - I just can't find anyone.



I have so many failures. At some point it reaches Einsteins definition of insanity

That is why they are making quilts....they can't get their pants to fit and when you are a quilter everyone is looking at the quilts and not each other's bumm.

Forget about Einstein...he probably never laid a hand on a needle and thread.

------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

"Isnít it a shame in todayís world you canít tell the truth? If you tell the truth youíre abrasive. If you lie youíre charming." - Bob Huggins/College Basket Ball Coach

schmammy
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Date: 5/27/14 10:57 AM

If you ever have an opportunity to attend a sewing conference such as Peggy Sagers' Sew Expo----do it. Hopefully you will meet some other fashion sewists from your area. Although I don't belong, many folks love ASG and the connections they make with others interested in fashion sewing. Another place to look for fellow garment sewers in independent fabric shops (not quilt shops). Many offer classes. Good luck with your quest for pants that fit and finding a sewing buddy!

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

caren751
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Date: 5/27/14 11:24 AM

I found the way that the Craftsy class "One Pattern Many Looks" very informative. I have used the approach I found in fitting books for years but did not really get how the worked before seeing her examples and trying the out with Swedish tracing paper. I find having to pay attention to the videos frustrating, but it was worth it.

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