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Forum > Patterns and Notions > Calling All Burda Magazine Pattern Sewing Experts!!! ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Calling All Burda Magazine Pattern Sewing Experts!!!
This is the FIRST time I've ever attempted a Burda Pattern and I need to find out some tips & tricks
Deb Thompson
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Deb Thompson
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Alberta CANADA
Member since 7/8/05
Posts: 307
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Date: 7/21/05 10:44 AM

Okay, I've been sewing for about 15 years now and I've tried patterns from the main pattern companies (Simplicity; Mccalls; Butterick; Vogue). I have always wanted to try a Burda Magazine pattern because they are so nice and trendy but the lack of instructions and MORE IMPORTANTLY the lack of seams scares the heck out of me.

If I use the sizing chart and cut the lines for my size then add 5/8" on all the edges for a seam...should I be okay? (Can I not just cut a bigger size and then just take in 5/8" seams from that???)

Is there a special tool any of you use to add the seam onto the tissue paper or is it just a simple pencil & ruler?

Are darts, notches and all that good guiding stuff clearly marked? I looked at the pattern pages out of the magazine last night and I was so overwhelmed I had to put it away and chat with you guys first (I rely on you guys for guidance now!!)

Also, what's the best tracing paper to trace on? Burda tracing paper seems so expensive to me (I use ironed out gift wrap tissue paper when I'm altering my patterns but that seems too flimsy to trace a whole pattern onto). Is there a way that you adhere the Burda pages to the tracing paper to make sure that your lines are perfect and not messed up from the papers sliding around?

I'm sorry for all these questions but some help would be sooooo greatfully appreciated!!!

Scared to try something new....Deb

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Deborah Thompson
www.debthompsoncollection.com

seKimberlyso
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seKimberlyso
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Florida USA
Member since 5/7/04
Posts: 619
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Subject: CALLING ALL BURDA MAGAZINE PATTERN SEWING EXPERTS!!! Date: 7/21/05 11:02 AM

I am running out the door but I will answer a few of these quickly. I sew a Burda pattern two or three times a week. I use Kwik-sew tracing paper, it has grid lines, and is inexpensive. ( I buy mine from Debbie Cook’s coop.) The darts and such are clearly marked. I pin onto a cardboard cutting board, and pin with pins going in at an angle to the inside, no sliding then. I draw my hem allowance after tracing the original pattern size, that way I have both; I use a semi-line for the inside original pattern trace, you know draw a line skip a few inches, faster that way. Occasionally, I can use the larger size as a guide, but I just use my sewing ruler usually. It’s not hard at all. As for the instructions, I am very visual and I often draw out on paper what I need to do after I cut the pieces. I can then visual what the instructions are not clearly telling me. Good luck. I love Burda WOF patterns and have great success. Just sewed up two this week.

-- Edited on 7/21/05 12:04 PM --

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Kimberly

Deb Thompson
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Deb Thompson
Intermediate
Alberta CANADA
Member since 7/8/05
Posts: 307
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In reply to seKimberlyso


Subject: CALLING ALL BURDA MAGAZINE PATTERN SEWING EXPERTS!!! Date: 7/21/05 11:09 AM

You sew 2 to 3 a week??? I'm impressed!! I can barely find time to sew one item every couple of weeks (that's on top of my full time job, two kids, dog, fiance, wedding planning for October and finishing the exterior of the house we just built).

I am so greatful for your tips. I feel an anxiety level slowly going down. I've heard nothing but great reviews when it comes to Burda and I want to try them so bad. I think I just need to dive in and take a chance.

Like you, I am a visual sewer and I think it's a great idea to make a sheet of paper with instructions to help me out.

I'll try the technique of not drawing full lines. That sounds easier to me!!

------
Deborah Thompson
www.debthompsoncollection.com

AliceM
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AliceM
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Illinois USA
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In reply to Deb Thompson


Subject: CALLING ALL BURDA MAGAZINE PATTERN SEWING EXPERTS!!! Date: 7/21/05 11:23 AM

I use 150' rolls of tracing paper that I bought from Mr. Art.com. I buy the 36" wide size and it goes a long way. I have a plastic french curve ruler that has cutouts at the 5/8" seamline. That is the easiest way I have found to add the seam allowance on the curves. I got it from either joanns or Hancocks and I think they still carry them. Once you sew a pair of Burda pants you will never want to go back. They feel so much better than the others. Remember you don't have to use the burda instructions if you don't like them. Just get some instructions for a pattern that you do like and do it your way. the pattern pieces are all basically the same, they are just drawn differently to give you a much better fit. I hardly ever follow burda's construction sequences because they can be goofy sometimes. they like to put zippers in way later that I like to so I ignore that and do it my way. have fun with this and you will get to love burda as much as we do.

redhead
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redhead
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Tennessee USA
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Subject: CALLING ALL BURDA MAGAZINE PATTERN SEWING EXPERTS!!! Date: 7/21/05 11:39 AM

I trace using examination table paper from a medical supply store. I add seam and hem allowances as I cut out, using a seam gauge to eyeball my cutting line. The notches are represented as little lines about 3/8" long at the edges of the pattern pieces. I cut tiny notches in the seam allowance when I reach those points (not recommended though if there is a chance you will need to let it out at the seams, so maybe I am overconfident here). To keep the tracing paper from moving as I trace, I just weight it down with something like cans of tuna from the pantry. Burda's peculiarities will become second nature to you after a couple of projects. I made a whole lined skirt suit using Burda WOF!

LoriB
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 LoriB  Friend of PR
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Armed Forces (AE) GERMANY
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Subject: CALLING ALL BURDA MAGAZINE PATTERN SEWING EXPERTS!!! Date: 7/21/05 11:48 AM

For tracing, I use soil separator fabric purchased from Lowes or Home Depot - it's non-woven white fabric-y like stuff that people before me (it wasn't my original idea) suggested using for tracing and it works! It comes in rolls 36" wide (I think, it might be wider) and 15 feet long. Look for it in the garden section. I've found that pens work best to mark on this stuff. Also be careful because you might mark the surface underneath and you definitely will if you use gel pens or markers.

To hold the pattern down, I use huge washers from the hardware store. Just make sure there are no rough edges on them because they'll snag the soil separator fabric and disrupt your layout.

I first trace the seam line in one color of pen along with all the markings, name of the pattern, size, etc. Then I use a small 1" x 6" quilter's ruler to mark the cutting line - I line up the seam line on the 5/8" line (I use 1/2" or 1/4" seam allowance for knits) and mark in another color pen all the way along the perimeter of the pattern. Do take the time to add the seam allowances and don't use the next size because the grading might be different.

Another nice feature of the soil separator fabric is that you can baste the pieces together for fitting. The soil separator fabric also likes to "stick" to fabric so sometimes I don't even need to use pins or weights to cut things out (but I have a cat who likes to jump on the cutting table, so often pins and weights are still necessary!)

And finally, note that the Burda pattern piece numbers are printed on the edge of the pattern sheet to help you locate them. I only just recently noticed this.

-- Edited on 7/21/05 12:52 PM --

------
Lori (visit my blog at: http://monkeyroom.blogspot.com)

Sew it seams
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Sew it seams
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Montana USA
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Subject: CALLING ALL BURDA MAGAZINE PATTERN SEWING EXPERTS!!! Date: 7/21/05 11:50 AM

Deb I'm glad you asked this question. I just ordered my first subscription to BURDA WOF after receiving a single magazine and loving the fashions inside. I too, have been afraid to start. I just sit at night and look through it and dream. The issue I have isn't even current- It's Sept 2000. There are several things I would like to make in it.

Kimberly, thank you for posting all the information of your experience sewing BURDA. Your tip on using the cardboard underneath while tracing is great. (Why didn't I think of that?)


And Alice, the french curve sounds great too. I have both the cardboard and the curve and had not though of using either when I was tracing a KS pattern yesterday. Even though the KS has seam allowance already, the curve would still be helpful in tracing.

Redhead and Lori, it looks like we were posting at the same time. Thanks for your tips, too!
-- Edited on 7/21/05 12:53 PM --

PhyllisC
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PhyllisC
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Massachusetts USA
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Posts: 2005
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Subject: CALLING ALL BURDA MAGAZINE PATTERN SEWING EXPERTS!!! Date: 7/21/05 11:51 AM

If you like rotary cutters, Olfa makes a little extension arm that enables you to add a seam allowance. I use it on my 28mm size blade:

Olfa rotary arm guide

....you can cut the pattern and add the seam allowance at the same time.

At the time I reviewed it it wasn't too common to see it on stores, but now I often see it in fabrics stores that have well-stocked sections of Olfa merchandise.

Phyllis

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Sewing = Fashion
http://coudremode.com/

Luck happens when preparation meets opportunity.

mamafitz
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mamafitz
Wisconsin USA
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Posts: 1134
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Subject: CALLING ALL BURDA MAGAZINE PATTERN SEWING EXPERTS!!! Date: 7/21/05 11:59 AM

i trace one of two ways:

1. i use STP or tru-grid, lay it on top of the pattern sheet, and trace my pattern. i add seam allowances as i trace, using a 6x1 clear plastic ruler. when you trace, note on your pieces what size SA you used, i switch between using 3/8" and 5/8".

2. i use regular paper (i haven't tried this with STP yet, but i think it might work), put it UNDER the pattern sheet, and then run a pinpoint tracing wheel around the pattern lines. then add seam allowances. this is easy because you don't have to squint or strain to see the pattern line you are tracing through whatever your tracing medium is.

you asked about just tracing off a bigger size and sewing it up with 5/8" seams to get to your size. that won't work, because the grade is different in different areas. sorry!

everything is marked that you need on the patterns, though sometimes i think they only mark the smallest size for buttons/buttonholes, having you respace for the larger sizes. i love the burda magazine patterns.

------
Linda

Girls do not dress for boys. They dress for themselves, and of course, each other. If girls dressed for boys, they’d just walk around naked at all times.
-- Betsey Johnson


http://mamafitz.blogspot.com

Maychi
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Maychi
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International SLOVENIA
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Subject: CALLING ALL BURDA MAGAZINE PATTERN SEWING EXPERTS!!! Date: 7/21/05 12:51 PM

Deb, never and I mean NEVER use a bigger size instead of adding seam allowance. It just doesn't work that way. Adding s.a. is not that difficult once you get a hang of it.
This is how I do it: I trace the pattern on some light sheer paper and use 'weights' e.i. stapler, jars, basically anything heavy to hold the pattern pieces on the fabric. Then I add s.a. directly on the fabric, not on the traced pattern - this works better for me.

As far as lack of instruction goes, you can find most of the techniques either in sewing books or here on PR. And if you get stuck, just ask away.

Don't be afraid of Burdas, I learned sewing with Burda patterns, so it's no big deal. Start with an easy pattern, so you'll get used to the Burda ways. You'll probably end up loving it. :)

------
Maja

"Only creativity brings us close to paradise." (Hundertwasser)



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