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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Problem with jacket fit in upper chest area

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Problem with jacket fit in upper chest area
Help!
Oziroo
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Oziroo  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/24/05 2:04 AM

Help! I have made this jacket as a practice version before cutting into some yummy silk organza for my son's wedding. Mostly I am happy with the fit, but across the front above the bust doesn't fit me at all. It seems too narrow and pulls from the armhole across the upper chest and then doesn't sit comfortably. I inadvertently stretched the left side a bit when
sewing so that side gapes even more than the right, but neither side is right. I'm not so worried about the gapiness. It is the width. I don't know what alteration to make to the pattern to cure this. All comments would be much valued.

Front

Back

The pattern is New Look 6379

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 7/24/05 7:05 AM

It seems to me that your bust is too big for the pattern. What I would do, (and maybe others would do something different) is to taper the center front out a little more, starting at the shoulder and getting the fullest part at your bust, maybe about an inch and a half on each side. Then taper it back in when you get to the waist. This should add enough weight to the front to let it fall across your bust.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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KimB

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Date: 7/25/05 3:27 PM

I think it's a sleeve problem. It looks like you've got a bit of a broad shoulder and also a forward shoulder. My guess is that the sleeve is not wide enough across the upper arm/shoulder, so it's causing the front chest to pull. It's possible that a forward shoulder adjustment to both the bodice and the sleeve would fix this; however, you might also need to either add width to the sleeve or adjust for broad shoulder.

--Kim

Katharine in BXL
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Katharine in BXL
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Date: 7/25/05 11:53 PM

I'm stumped from the description--perhaps you could post a photo for us?

Congratulations on your son's wedding!

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DD Jan 2010, DS Aug 2011: busy!
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Oziroo
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Oziroo  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/26/05 5:54 AM

Hi Katharine,

Did you see the links I posted? Or did you want pictures from a different angle? Any comments welcome.

(Thanks Beth and Kim for your help!)

Irene
-- Edited on 7/26/05 6:56 AM --

Eli
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Date: 7/26/05 2:01 PM

I am in no way a fitting expert but from what I can see from the photo it seems that the front waist dart does not point nowhere near the bust apex and if that is the case it has to be repositioned. I also think that the fronts do not approach each other enough at the waist. That I would probably solve by slashing a line between the dart and the CF (parallel to the CF and close to the dart) and spreading, then truing. It is my belief also that the design is somewhat meant to be that way. Had you not made it in a transperant fabric you could tape the front edge to prevent gaping and for snugness, however in your case I don't know what you can do, maybe some very lightweight fusible tape? The back seems fine to me and so do the sleeves.

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elizajo
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Date: 7/26/05 2:58 PM

It seems to me that you need a full bust alteration like Beth Pierce advised, because the wrinkles seem to pointing to that area. There's not enough fabric to cover the bust. If you don't know how, I have used this method Simplicity FBA. This is good for people who need an FBA, but not increased width in the upper chest area. You will add a horizontal dart with this alteration. I would try this out on a muslin-type fabric, that way you will know if the neckline gapping is from handling the fabric, or from the need for FBA.

If this alteration doesn't completely solve the problem, you may need to alter the armhole a little. I see some wrinkling from that area, but it could be from the lack of fabric over the bust.

I'm no expert, but I hope this helps! If you don't want the horizontal dart there are more knowlegeable people here who might help you with rotating the dart to another location.

Elizabeth

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Elizabeth

SewVeryTall
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Date: 7/27/05 5:40 AM

I don't see a woman who needs a full bust adjustment...she looks like an A or B cup!

I think you need to make one size bigger, and since this is a multi-size pattern, that should be very easy.

A size bigger will give you the room you need across the shoulders and sleeve caps. It will also bring the vertical bust darts over so they are right under your bust.

I sure wish I could find the information on this pattern as to whether it's for knits or woven. The way you describe the fit, it sounds like the way a knit pattern would fit if a woven fabric was mistakenly used. Could this be why it's too small and you need to cut a size bigger?

------
Ardis

the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother

Oziroo
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Oziroo  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/27/05 7:22 AM

Hallo! Thank you all for your help. I am just getting around to tackling this again and decided to try the next size, partly because this would give me more space at the sleeve/armhole, and in the front width. SewVeryTall - you are right - I am actually an A cup. I haven't yet got the sleeves on so it is too soon to tell. I will also check the darts. I like the idea of stabilising the front edges somehow. My 'real' fabric has ribbon work on it and so although it is organza it is not so see through as the practice fabric.
The pattern is intended for organza.
Hopefully I'll be posting another (better!) pic at the weekend. Thanks again everyone. Irene

KarmenG
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In reply to Oziroo


Date: 7/27/05 8:13 AM

I'm worried about the V-neck part on you, when you go to the next size. It looks a little long on you in the photos - stands away from the body in the bust area. This happens to me too; I am small busted. If needed, you would fix that by pinching out a dart shape on the pattern before cutting your fabric; pinch from the front edge where the gapping occurs, going sideways to nothing by the armhole. That will pinch out the excess, shorten the V-neck part of the jacket front and allow it to lay next to your body.

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