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Underlining needed?
Underlining for medium soft linen
DebJ

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Date: 8/14/14 11:16 AM

I am making Simplicity 1665 and it will be out of a soft linen rayon (medium weight). There is no issue with show through the linen is heavy enough to be opaque.

What I am worried about it the wrinkle factor. I have some very light ivory batiste and I was going to underline just the lower dress part (the upper parts are interfaced) in order to hopefully decrease the wrinkling.

Is this a good idea or should I just let the wrinkles happen? I was considering silk organza but I want to keep the dress soft and fluid.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Deb

Here is the pattern: Simplicity 1665

I ended up using the amazon link as simplicity was just too slow.
-- Edited on Today at 11:22 AM --

Wino
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In reply to DebJ <<


Date: 8/14/14 11:52 AM

I'm confused...linen isn't rayon, and rayon isn't particularly wrinkly. Am I missing something? An underlining might give the fabric additional body. I guess it depends on the look you want to achieve.

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wino

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Date: 8/14/14 12:30 PM

I wouldn't underline the linen. It will change the hand of the fabric. But you could line it. I love cotton batiste but I don't think it will prevent much wrinkling. Maybe since you are already using a rayon-linen blend (or is it a linen-like rayon?) you could line with bemberg which is a rayon lining. Any lining will prevent some wrinkling.

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"framed" was taken
"I meant what I said, and I said what I meant." - Horton(Dr. Seuss)

GretchenB
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Date: 8/14/14 12:49 PM

I generally like underlining since you can hem to it invisibly, but I vote for lining since the top is lined.

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Trying to tame my stash!

DebJ

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Date: 8/14/14 7:58 PM

Thanks so much for your input. The fabric is actually a combination of linen and rayon and is quite soft after washing it. I had considered lining it with bemberg rayon but at this point in my life I find that type of lining to be quite hot. How about using the cotton batiste as a lining rather than underlining? Any thoughts.

Thanks,
Deb

simplystitches
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Date: 8/14/14 8:11 PM

The thing that would concern me with underlining is that as linen relaxes it stretches some. I'd be more inclined to use a free hanging lining.

I've used knit tricot (same fabric as slips) as a skirt lining under summer dresses and it's cool. I'm not sure how the batiste would hang under the fabric or if it would "grab".

Debbie

BriarRose
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Date: 8/14/14 8:26 PM

I'd make a separate slip out of silk and lace and feel totally pampered in my pretty slip and linen-rayon dress.

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I've quit fighting my inner demons. We're on the same side now.

It's just fabric; we can out-think it.

DebJ

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In reply to BriarRose <<
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Date: 8/14/14 9:02 PM

Ooh, I hadn't thought go that option! I have just the silk in my stash too!

Thanks for that great suggestion!

Deb

DebJ

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In reply to simplystitches <<
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Date: 8/14/14 9:05 PM

Oh this gives me another option for a slip! Decisions, decisions.

The reason I am fussing so much is that this is my mother of the bride outfit as my daughter is getting married in our backyard a week from this Saturday!

Thanks,
Deb

caren751
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Date: 8/14/14 9:11 PM

I have successfully underlined cotton/linen blends with silk organza, and I frequently underline with cotton with cotton. I do find that both types of underlining help control wrinkles. One way to test for the wrinkliness of a fabric is to ball in up in your hand and see how many wrinkles you get when you release it. I would "underline" a square of the linen/rayon blend with the cotton you are thinking of using by basting them together, and see if the fabric is less wrinkly with the underlining.

I would be tempted to try a net like underlining for coolness. I have never seen it with linen/rayon, as I have only seen it in athletic wear, but I think it would help cut down on wrinkles and still let the linen breath.

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