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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Yet another FBA question...

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Yet another FBA question...
How to add a bust dart on Raglan Sleeve Top...
Steffie
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Steffie
Intermediate
MI USA
Member since 11/6/04
Posts: 872
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Date: 9/14/05 7:22 PM

Even after searching the boards, I am not able to find (though it might be here somewhere) info on adding a dart to a Raglan Sleeve top. I saw an FBA at the side seam (eased), but is there another way?

I am plus sized and am planning to make Burda 8265 which has a cowel neck... will a dart even work with this design?

All help is appreciated!
-- Edited on 9/14/05 8:24 PM --

Neefer
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Neefer
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 2662
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In reply to Steffie


Date: 9/14/05 9:58 PM

Yes, you do it just like you would with a regular bodice and sleeve, except instead of slashing to the armhole, you go to the raglan seam.

------
Neefer aka AgitProp and Village Churl Sewing Blog: http://www.oaktrees.org/blog/

Bonny lass, bonny lass, will you be mine?
You shall neither wash dishes nor serve the wine;
But sit on a cushion and sew a fine seam,
And feast upon strawberries, sugar, and cream.

Mel.J
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Mel.J
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 7/30/02
Posts: 2684
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Date: 9/14/05 9:59 PM

If yuor normal method is to draw a line from the armhole to the bust apex, you can do it just the same way. Instead of starting from 1/3 way up the armhole you start from the raglan seam line (about 1/2 way I think).

HTH
Mel

------
Mel (Melbourne, Australia)

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
USA
Member since 4/11/02
Posts: 9703
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Date: 9/15/05 0:29 AM

Here are pics showing how. It also shows how to rotate the new dart out at the sideseam.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

keelyb1
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keelyb1
Intermediate
NEW ZEALAND
Member since 10/11/02
Posts: 844
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 9/15/05 5:28 AM

Debbie, I've been meaning to ask this for a few weeks now. Why do you rotate the dart out to the side ie close the horizontal dart, if you're going to use the same sideseam line? In photo 2 you draw the new sideseam, photo 3 rotate the dart, then in photo 4 use the same sideseam you drew in ph 2. It's been bugging me that I'm missing something. The only thing I can think of is that it helps if you still need more room in the side?
Can I also say that your fba tips have been a lifesaver and that I credit you and Gigi with finally giving me the confidence to give this all a go. Thank you!

------
Keely
Dunedin, New Zealand

http://keelysews.blogspot.com

Mel.J
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Mel.J
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 7/30/02
Posts: 2684
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Date: 9/15/05 6:47 AM

Hi Keely,
I'll have a go at explaining that. (if I don't make sense, I'm sure Debbie will be able to clarify)

If you leave the dart in its original position you have to sew the dart to close it up - otherwise the pattern pieces won't fit together. Rotating the dart to the side seam allows you to take out the excess there (as Debbie illustrated), leaving you with a dart free T with the extra bust room you need, & fitting the same as the original pattern around the waist. Leaving the dart in at the waist will pretty much make the Tshirt fall straight down from the bust. You can leave in some of the excess if you need it. If you are only needing to add at the bust (which is what I think you want to do) you don't want it being baggy around the waist. Using the original side seam line keeps the side seam shaping as per the pattern.

I hope that helps a bit?

Mel

------
Mel (Melbourne, Australia)

Amy T

Amy T  Friend of PR
Intermediate
WA USA
Member since 11/16/04
Posts: 70
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In reply to keelyb1


Date: 9/15/05 2:40 PM

Keely,

This has puzzled me for awhile, too, but I think I finally understand it. I think the point of "rotating out the dart" is to keep the width created by the FBA, but shorten the front side to match the back side (because the front side length won't be shortened by sewing a dart).

I've had to draw this several times for it to make sense to me, but it helped me to think about just the before and after shapes, not the steps in between. When I look at my "after", it is wider in front from the hem up to the bust. But you don't want extra width in the upper chest, so above the bust the side seam angles back toward the armscye. The armscye curve has also changed a little in the process, curving up at the base a little more.

keelyb1
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keelyb1
Intermediate
NEW ZEALAND
Member since 10/11/02
Posts: 844
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In reply to Mel.J


Date: 9/15/05 7:31 PM

Thanks Mel and Amy, that does help. I'm a total beginner at fitting. I'd decided that I'd blindly follow instructions anyway but it does help to have some idea of why. I think I'm starting to get there. The trial I did the other day already fits better than RTW. At least I don't have the ski ramp effect from my bust down, LOL. Now I need to shape the sides a bit more and perhaps raise the armscye. I had tried taking a L on top and then merging out to an XL at the sides and doing a smaller fba (I'm using KS2900 inspired by Sherril's amazing range from the same pattern) but found that it could then do with coming in a bit so I'm going to try doing a straight L with a bigger fba that will hopefully work better this time. (I found out about rotating the dart after I tried this the first time) and perhaps allow a bit more in the side seam. It's quite exciting that I'm going to have tops that fit me better! I should get one printed with a big *Thank You PR members!*

------
Keely
Dunedin, New Zealand

http://keelysews.blogspot.com

Amy T

Amy T  Friend of PR
Intermediate
WA USA
Member since 11/16/04
Posts: 70
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In reply to Steffie


Date: 9/15/05 7:52 PM

Steffie,

I just finally looked at your pattern. I have to say, first, I really hope you will review it when you are done! It is an unusual style and I would love to see it "in the flesh".

Second, I am wondering if you might be able to rotate your dart into the cowl/draped neckline. I have been thinking about doing this since I tried on a cowl-neck shirt a few weeks ago and was surprised at how flattering it was with my large bust. It seems to me that you could close the horizontal dart by opening several slashes from the neck to the bust point. Anyone want to weigh in on whether this is a good idea or not?

Amy

Deepika
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Deepika  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MA USA
Member since 11/28/01
Posts: 11368
Founder

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
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Date: 9/16/05 6:52 AM

Debbie thanks for the link to the FBA on raglan. I was also looking for it.

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- Deepika
Founder, PatternReview.com
Blog: http://www.deepikablogs.com

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