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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > eliminating shoulder pads

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eliminating shoulder pads
c hanging a pattern to eliminate shoulder pads
mamacita
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mamacita  Friend of PR
Intermediate
New Mexico USA
Member since 8/31/05
Posts: 150
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Date: 9/20/05 8:05 PM

A long while ago, when I was in my 5 year off sewing period, I know I read an article about using patterns that called for shoulder pads and changing the sleeve and armhole to be able to eliminate those pads. I have a vague memory of how to do this but I am about to launch into two silk blouses for my daughter who loves the pattern but hates shoulder pads. The pattern calls for very small pads, but she does not want any. I would like some advice on how to alter the pattern. Thank you! I want to do this on Vogue 9771. I have already made this for her in a lovely rayon but there was a pufffy bit at the top of the sleeve. The sleeve has a very steep armhole curve. Help!!! I have a lot of older patterns (left over from 5 years ago!!) that are classics and that I still love but I don't want those shoulder pads for myself any longer. Any advice you can give me?

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mamacita

els
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els
Expert/Couture
International NETHERLANDS
Member since 1/28/03
Posts: 1979
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In reply to mamacita
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Date: 9/20/05 8:32 PM

In pattern drafting which I do, I add 1/3 of the shoulder pad thickness to the front shoulder and 2/3 to the back shoulder and add ˝ of the shoulder pad thickness to the sleeve head.
The redrafting of the shoulders starts from 1/3 of the shoulders towards the armhole.
So if you do it reverse it should help you to get rid of the extra volume of the non use of shoulder pads, I have seen that Vogue sometimes mentioned the thickness of the shoulder pads used for a pattern. So if you know that, it is easy to redraft your pattern, otherwise stay on the safe side and cut off any excess fabric later when you do he fitting.
Good luck.

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http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/

mamacita
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mamacita  Friend of PR
Intermediate
New Mexico USA
Member since 8/31/05
Posts: 150
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Date: 9/21/05 6:36 AM

El: thank you so much for your drafting advice on the elimination of shoulder pads. It is 5:30 in the morning in New Mexico...and I am up and ready to make that change on the pattern!!

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mamacita

els
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els
Expert/Couture
International NETHERLANDS
Member since 1/28/03
Posts: 1979
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In reply to mamacita


Date: 9/21/05 8:03 AM

You’re welcome and happy sewing.

------
http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/

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