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Pattern Reviews> Vogue Patterns> 1387 (Misses' Top)

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Reviewed by:j Renee Design
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About j Renee Designstar
WI United States
Member since: 7/26/10
Reviews written: 55
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 13 people
patterns reviewed: 55
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Posted on:7/31/14 9:08 AM
Project Photo:Vogue Patterns: 1387 by j Renee Design

Vogue Patterns: 1387 by j Renee Design  Vogue Patterns: 1387 by j Renee Design  
Pattern Photo:Vogue Patterns 1387
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Difficult, but great for Advanced Sewers
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people    Very Helpful by 4 people   
See other patterns in this category: Tops    
Available for sale on PR: $30.00 Pattern Details
Fabric:Cotton- Lawn  [See other projects in this fabric]
This blouse is part of my Mini Wardrobe 2014 contest collection "Summer of Chic"

Pattern Description:
Top has self-lined yokes, front pleats, shaped hemline, and very narrow hem. A, front longer than back and B, back longer than front, wrong side shows. A: mock wrap, pullover, fitted through bust, no shoulder seams, elasticized tie ends for casing, underarm inset, and armhole bands.

Pattern Sizing:
6-22. I cut a 12 in view A

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, very much so!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
For the most part yet, but there is an error. They have you make the buttonholes at the beginning and only in on the right side of the blouse. Since the casing made for the drawstring is behind BOTH parts of the lower bodice, the buttonholes need to go through both layers instead of just the right.

Based on this, and my general difficulty with the underarm insets, it makes me feel like this garment was not test sewn. It probably was, but I don't know why they wouldn't address these issues otherwise.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved the outcome, but was not a fan of the anguish to get there, which was mostly caused by the underarm insets. Each of them were sewn in and ripped out a minimum of 3 times, and they still look like a 5 year old put them in. After the time put in, I got fed up and decided they were good enough as they were.

To make it a bit more challenging, the notches in the armscye definitely did not match the notches on the inset. I ended up just sewing each inset in from the side seam up and letting them end where they naturally wanted to.

To ease the inset installation, I think it would've been better if they had indicated sewing the side seam from the circle down (instead of sewing the whole seam) which would've made it easier to match and sew each of the dots for the inset and arm binding from the two directions, which would make sort of a Y intersection instead of a T. I'm being clear as mud, but can't figure out how else to say it.

To add more confusion to the arm area in general, the finishing band for the arm is definitely TOO long for the armscye. It's cut on the bias, so I thought I accidentally stretched it out while pressing and basting, but I compared it to my original pattern piece and the whole thing needs to be shortened at least half an inch.

Fabric Used:
Cotton lawn, that I bought from Marché Saint Pierre when we were in Paris for our honeymoon.

Or maybe it's voile? Sheerish, nice feeling cotton. You know what I'm talking about.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I should have done a 1" total FBA to allow for greater overlap, but didn't because my muslin seemed to fit just fine. What I didn't include in my muslin was the d*mn underarm insets, which turned out to be the bane of my V1387 experience.

I ended up using some Martha Pullen cotton/silk lining fabric for the yoke facing to minimize show-through of the print. I thought about doing the same on the neckline, but was more concerned about random ivory fabric peeking out than I was about the show-through.

Lastly, did a 1/2" swayback adjustment. Could've been 1" instead.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
After the time I had with the underarm insets, I'm not really sure I would attempt this one again. I cautiously recommend this to others because the end result is pretty great.

Conclusion:
View A is the Devil in disguise. It's such a pretty garment on the pattern envelope, but don't let it sucker you in...unless you like a little pain. It's up to you if it's beauty is worth just a wee chunk of your sanity. More on my blog.
Available for sale on PR: $30.00 Pattern Details
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9 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
taylormade said...
I just finished working on this blouse. I have been sewing for 50+ years, and it is up there with one of the worst patterns I have encountered!! It is impossible to install the underarm gussets with the instructions given!! Also the bias bands on the armholes are a ridiculous afterthought - did not fit well - I also found the shoulders to be way too big, and cut off about 1" from each armseye starting at the top and tapering to original line at underarm seam. I used the bands to just sew a bias binding to armseye and then "installed" the gusset by hand after finishing the armhole. I would not recommend this pattern no matter how pretty you think it is-mine is going to be worn for yard work. And I used a fabric I loved :-( So sad!
10/22/14 9:08 AM
AllNewtoMe said...
This is so pretty! The pattern on the fabric is amazing, and I LOVE the yoke on the back. It's beautiful!
8/4/14 10:30 PM
TJSEWS said...
All of your efforts were definitely worth it because you ended up with such a pretty blouse!
8/2/14 10:04 PM
j Renee Design said...
Thank you so much, you guys are really sweet. I agree, now that I'm past the pain of dealing with it, I'm really happy with the end result. Rairscat - A swayback adjustment helps to get rid of excess fabric in the lower back by slashing through the CB to the stitchline and overlapping to reduce the amount of fabric in that area. This is a very blousy style in general, so it's not too apparent.
8/1/14 2:53 PM
supizoo said...
This is such a beautiful blouse. If I was guaranteed the result you achieved, I would suffer the pain.
8/1/14 8:17 AM
Re Becca said...
BEAUTIFUL! I would trade this top for a wee bit of my sanity. I know tha it will grow on you and you will forget the headache. Besides, sanity is over rated.
7/31/14 1:39 PM
Erin Sooit said...
Thank you so much for the review! I do appreciate it since I really would like to make this top. I think your version is really pretty, feminine and summery. I also appreciate your candor in how much work was involved putting those pesky insets into the garment.
7/31/14 12:57 PM
Rairscat said...
That is a really beautiful blouse. I've debated making it or not...honestly I just think the fit wouldn't be flattering on me. I'm curious what a swayback adjustment looks like.
7/31/14 12:49 PM
carolynw said...
It is worth all the effort, sweat and tears - it's so pretty and feminine. Sometimes the devil is really in the details and I can feel your pain having gone through a similar ordeal yesterday!
7/31/14 9:48 AM
 
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