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|Viewed 327 times|| |
|Reviewed by:||miausiau|| |
|Posted on:||8/12/14 5:54 PM |
|Last Updated:||8/13/14 9:14 PM|
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Great Wardrobe Builder |
|Review Rating:|| Very Helpful by 4 people |
|See other patterns in this category: Dresses |
|Available for sale on PR: $30.00 (See envelope) Click to Buy |
|Fabric:||Boucle [See other projects in this fabric]|
|Maybe there should be a category for rating patterns called "Don't Try This at Home". |
It's not the hardest thing I've ever made but it sure had its moments where the +400 glasses came out.
This pattern has a lapel that is sewn in reverse and flipped to the outside! Instead of a straight stitch to seal the deal on the front lap a very narrow and long zig zag really allows the 2 fabrics to meld nicely together. Just catch the lapel with one side of the zig zag.
Again there are certainly easier ways to accomplish the set in lapel look, but I really wanted to give this technique a go. This is probably about 10 hrs of work. I was wrong to initially think this was a quickie.
I really think the shoulders are quite wide. Not only did I narrow them 3/8, in the end I put shoulder darts in. I did install shoulder pads as well.
One picture is the jacket under construction using the ideas I listed below. As frightening as it is you are looking at the right side of the garment. Notice the shoulder seams are going both ways and the fusible is showing me the final stitch line. I have lengthened the bodice just under the arms to lower dart and lengthen in one fell swoop.
Here's some notes about the pattern:
*The sleeve cuffs are tight. I have sticks for arms and I could not wear it any tighter(size 14 here). Also you cannot get it over the freearm! I would add 3/4" to the lower sleeve and don't forget the cuff, which is a clever little thing.
*Where the shoulder seams are...there is a better way to assure there is no raw seam just beneath the neckline. I would try a clip and flip like what is done on the hemline or bind it with matching fabric. See photo
* IMO the sleeve caps are too generous...I shaved off a scant 1/4 inch from the top on my second sleeve and it fit much better.
*It's not so easy to sew up a neat flipped over facing but it is a fun technique. You could just cut and attach a front piece and do a mirror facing and stitch in the ditch for a similar effect. I'm thinking of a reversible number. No way around that right in your face clipped corner at the lapel! Better yet, cut fusible interfacing of front flip piece and remove and discard exact seam allowance. Fuse this to the right side of front and this will provide a guide line plus interface all in one! see photo
*Because the sleeves have darts, lining up stripes or plaids may not be possible, although the variance will be mostly covered by the flip cuff.
A fun little retro number that could be just right for a light cover up in linen or a crepe back satin. The easier the fabric holds a press, the better this will fly of the table and on to your hanger.
| Available for sale on PR: $30.00 (See envelope)Click to Buy|
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