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Pattern Reviews> Vogue Patterns> 8974 (Misses' Jacket, Dress and Belt)

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Reviewed by:miausiau

About miausiaustarstar
Member since: 4/13/11
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patterns reviewed: 87
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Posted on:8/12/14 5:54 PM
Last Updated:8/13/14 9:14 PM
Project Photo:Vogue Patterns: 8974 by miausiau

Vogue Patterns: 8974 by miausiau  Vogue Patterns: 8974 by miausiau  
Pattern Photo:Vogue Patterns 8974
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Great Wardrobe Builder
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 5 people   
See other patterns in this category: Dresses    
Available for sale on PR: $30.00 Pattern Details
Fabric:Boucle  [See other projects in this fabric]
Maybe there should be a category for rating patterns called "Don't Try This at Home".

It's not the hardest thing I've ever made but it sure had its moments where the +400 glasses came out.

This pattern has a lapel that is sewn in reverse and flipped to the outside! Instead of a straight stitch to seal the deal on the front lap a very narrow and long zig zag really allows the 2 fabrics to meld nicely together. Just catch the lapel with one side of the zig zag.
Again there are certainly easier ways to accomplish the set in lapel look, but I really wanted to give this technique a go. This is probably about 10 hrs of work. I was wrong to initially think this was a quickie.

I really think the shoulders are quite wide. Not only did I narrow them 3/8, in the end I put shoulder darts in. I did install shoulder pads as well.

One picture is the jacket under construction using the ideas I listed below. As frightening as it is you are looking at the right side of the garment. Notice the shoulder seams are going both ways and the fusible is showing me the final stitch line. I have lengthened the bodice just under the arms to lower dart and lengthen in one fell swoop.

Here's some notes about the pattern:

*The sleeve cuffs are tight. I have sticks for arms and I could not wear it any tighter(size 14 here). Also you cannot get it over the freearm! I would add 3/4" to the lower sleeve and don't forget the cuff, which is a clever little thing.
*Where the shoulder seams are...there is a better way to assure there is no raw seam just beneath the neckline. I would try a clip and flip like what is done on the hemline or bind it with matching fabric. See photo
* IMO the sleeve caps are too generous...I shaved off a scant 1/4 inch from the top on my second sleeve and it fit much better.
*It's not so easy to sew up a neat flipped over facing but it is a fun technique. You could just cut and attach a front piece and do a mirror facing and stitch in the ditch for a similar effect. I'm thinking of a reversible number. No way around that right in your face clipped corner at the lapel! Better yet, cut fusible interfacing of front flip piece and remove and discard exact seam allowance. Fuse this to the right side of front and this will provide a guide line plus interface all in one! see photo
*Because the sleeves have darts, lining up stripes or plaids may not be possible, although the variance will be mostly covered by the flip cuff.

A fun little retro number that could be just right for a light cover up in linen or a crepe back satin. The easier the fabric holds a press, the better this will fly of the table and on to your hanger.
Available for sale on PR: $30.00 Pattern Details
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5 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Marla1 said... (9/5/14 1:20 PM) Reply
pretty jacket. I like the contrasting colors.
sew dooley said... (8/14/14 8:32 PM) Reply
Great looking jacket. I bought this pattern just for the jacket. After seeing yours, I think it will work for some wool I have. Thanks for all the fit tips.
nicegirl said... (8/14/14 10:10 AM) Reply
It sounds like it was a lot of work, but I'd never know you struggled with this from the gorgeous, polished finished product. Lovely!
Annie- oh said... (8/13/14 9:18 PM) Reply
Thank you for this review, cannot decide if I am forewarned or not, but your helpful comments, and the look of your gorgeous jacket are urging me to get this pattern. Your choice of fabric and colors is muy chic!
sewbusy888 said... (8/12/14 10:16 PM) Reply
your review is so helpful and I like the idea of linen or crepe back satin . thanks
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