Laughing Moon Mercantile: 111 (Ladies' Early 1860's Day Dress) - Type:Costumes  | | Viewed 1097 times
| 2 more reviews | Review rated Helpful by 1 people Very Helpful by 16 people | | Reviewed by: | SewEccentric | 
| About SewEccentric | | TX USA | | Member since: 5/13/03 | | Reviews written: 35 | | Sewing skills:Advanced | | Favored by: 10 people | | patterns reviewed: 29 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 11/28/06 0:17 AM | | Last Updated: | 1/31/13 8:31 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | Pattern Info provided by SewEccentric | | Pattern Rating: | Highly Recommend | | | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
Ladies' Early 1860's Day Dress ~ With 3 Sleeve Options, Collar, And Undersleeves.
Pattern Sizing:
Misses Sizes 6-26 - I made a size 14, but it's on a smaller dressform.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were wonderful and very informative about the period. I ended up with great results and learned a lot.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The historical accuracy - it's based on an extant gown in the pattern-maker's collection.
Fabric Used:
100% cotton (quilting) fabric, fully lined in muslin.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I think I ended up added two knife pleats and removing two of the box pleats to make the waist line up with the notches just right... but that could have been through some error of my own. The skirt starts with knife pleats in the front, then just around the side there are a set of box pleats, and the center back is cartridge pleated.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I'm already working on my second gown, and I plan to sew a fancier version with nicer fabric next.
Conclusion
This gown incorporated a lot of techniques I've been anxious to try out - particularly the cartridge pleating in back. I also liked that the waist, shoulder, and neck seams were all reinforced with custom-made cording for reinforcement. The dress is actually a little big for the dress form it is on, but it does have drop-sleeves.
Here is a photo of the cartridge pleating in back - it also features curved pleats on the back - not an actual princess seam! I'm amazed it turned out so well.
Back View
The white "sleevettes" are not attached - they tie around the arms above the elbows. The collar is made separately and whip-stitched on to the piping trim. I wished I had a slightly fuller petticoat under it (but not quite a hoop).
I made the fabric-covered buttons using the trim on the cuffs. The bow is silk, and I had hoped to embroider it with my intials but the embroidery machine was being a #%@*!!
I plan to wear this on Saturday to Dickens on the Strand in Galveston, TX. I'll be making a hat to match!
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17 Comments
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So lovely and well-put-together, congrats! I've a few Laughing Moon patterns on my wishlist, so your positive comments about the instructions are great to hear.
11/28/06 1:43 AM
WOW! That is fantastic!
11/28/06 7:30 AM
That looks fabulous, great job!
11/28/06 7:46 AM
Your dress is beautiful and so authentic looking with the fabric and style. Have fun wearing it this weekend. Can you post a picture of you wearing it along with your hat? We'd love to see you in it.
11/28/06 7:59 AM
I love historical costumes: the details differ from most contemporary styles and are so fascinating. Your cartridge pleating and back yoke turned out beautifully.
11/28/06 8:27 AM
This is absolutely gorgeous!
11/28/06 9:08 AM
Beautiful job - I love the pleating and all the wonderful details. Having done a few Butterick "historical" patterns recently, it's nice to see a real historical pattern made up, and done so well. And a picture of you wearing it would be great.
11/28/06 11:05 AM
WOW....what an awesome dress! You did a beautiful job on it. Would love to see a pick with YOU in it?! WOW, again!
11/28/06 11:42 AM
Terrific dress. I love the detailing on the back.
11/28/06 12:20 PM
Thanks! I will definitely take pictures wearing it, as I've worked hard and recently lost over 20 lbs!
11/28/06 12:35 PM
Beautiful. Wonderful detail.
11/28/06 4:10 PM
wonderful to see such an of-the-time dress. Well done & if only LM did 1830s!
11/28/06 4:49 PM
Wow. Lovely job.
11/29/06 0:10 AM
Thats very nice. I like the neatness of your pleats & gathers. The back shaping is very nice also.
11/29/06 5:36 AM
How many yards of the quilting fabric did you use for this Size 14 dress? GREAT job, BTW.
7/11/07 6:15 PM
It uses 6-3/8 of 45" wide (I used a Calico print from JoAnn's).
7/19/07 1:41 AM
Love your work - very inspiring!
1/31/13 11:51 PM