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|8 more reviews|
|Viewed 1639 times|| |
|Reviewed by:||Lisa Laree|| |
|Posted on:||2/2/07 7:28 PM |
|Last Updated:||2/20/15 9:31 PM|
Loes Hinse Designs Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Recommend, with Modifications |
|Review Rating:|| Helpful by 2 people Very Helpful by 17 people |
|See other patterns in this category: Accessories |
|Available for sale on PR: $12.00 Pattern Details |
|Fabric:||Upholstery Tapestry [See other projects in this fabric]|
|photo link updated AGAIN 2/13/15|
Two and a half years ago, we sold our house with a very short closing time. Five friends came and helped pack things up and really saved my neck. Shortly after we moved, I bought some upholstery fabric with which to make Weekender bags as appreciation gifts for each of them. But, well, things happened and I'm just now getting them done. (sheepish look)
Pattern Description: Lined tote bag w/ inside pocket w/zipper closure.
Pattern Sizing:One size; bottom of the bag is 13" x 8" and the bag is 17" tall.
Fabric: Three different upholstery fabrics, plus a little recycled denim for the blue stripe versions. I used coordinating fashion fabrics for the linings.
Construction:If you follow the directions carefully, you will end up with the bag as pictured. But I did some kinda different things:
1) I cut two bag bottoms from the lining. Then, I cut a 7 1/2" x 12" rectangle of double-sided Peltex (this is the stuff that is used to make those 'fabric bowls'), sandwiched it between the wrong sides of the lining bag bottoms and fused it to both sides. This give some nice support to the bag bottom.
2) When stitching the pocket in the lining, I did *not* edgestitch across the top, but sturdily zig-zagged the top edges at the corners. This makes an open pocket behind the zipper pocket . In hindsight, it would've been good to fuse some interfacing to the wrong side of the lining where those corners are stitched, but I didn't think of it until it was too late. Next time, I'll do that.
3) I cut and lined a rectangle of fabric (on the green and print bags; on the stripe bag, I used a rectangle cut from the bottom of the legs of a multi-patched pair of retired blue jeans, and I didn't line it...just used the hem as the top edge. I also cut the button tabs from the same jeans)to put between the handles on the button side of the bag to make an exterior pocket; I found some nice fuse-on letters to personalize these bags, which I put on the outer pocket.
A few tips:
You *can* place the joining seam of the handle pieces (straps) on the fold and avoid the seam; it worked for my print, but I don't think it would've worked as well for the other two fabrics...they had a stiffener on the back and were bulkier and I don't think I could've managed to turn that much length.
Also, after making the first three, I waited until the very last to seam the handles together on the last two bags. On my earlier attempts, the loops kept catching on the corners of my sewing table, which was rather aggravating. By closing the handles last, that problem goes away. ;)
After learning from the first bag, I trimmed the extra seam allowance out of the handles before I topstitched them; the directions just say to overlap them...but the handle is folded over and topstitched; there's really no compelling reason to leave that bulk in the handles.
I also sewed backer buttons behind the large closure buttons to help support them.
Another thing I did was to machine baste the 'turning opening' in the lining closed until I was ready to turn the bag. That let me press that seam really well, so that the edges were easy to close. But I just pulled that seam out, with the seam allowances turned in together, and edgestitched it closed, like a bagged jacket lining. It makes a bit of a rigid, welt-like seam, but it's in the inside of the bag, so... ;)
I also 'basted in the ditch' on the last two bags, so I could make a more accurate bag-shaping tuck. Oh...on the last one, I figured out that it was a little sturdier if I started stitching on the fold about 1" up from the bottom of the facing, angling down so that the needle was the prescribed 3/4" away from the fold at the bottom of the facing, then turned and stitched up to the edge, turned again and stitched back down to the bottom of the facing.
Likes/Dislikes: This bag is designed with as few seam intersections as possible; the facing is turned 90 degrees from the bag so that its seams are at the center of the front and back instead of at the sides, which is where the bag body seams are. A dislike is that the bag is not really all that well illustrated in the directions; some of the drawings are a bit confusing. Make sure to clip and match all notches! Also, don't make the mistake I made on my first bag; the handles connect along the sides of the bag, not over the top (See photo number 4 in the album; the bag on the right is correct, the bag on the left is wrong). I have no idea why I had it in my head that they went over the bag; but the only sketch of the finished bag is on the pattern envelope; there is none on the guide sheet. (Yes, I picked out the stitching on the first bag and fixed it).
Results: I have five bags that I'm not one whit ashamed to give to my friends...even if I am a little red-faced at how long it took me to get around to making them.
Conclusion: I like this bag and, now that I've trialed-and-errored my way through five, feel like I have figured this pattern out. If/when I find another piece of really cool upholstery fabric, I think I'll make one for myself.
|Available for sale on PR: $12.00 Pattern Details |
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