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Pattern Reviews> Loes Hinse Designs> 5205 (Boat Neck Top)

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Reviewed by:Deepika
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Member since: 11/28/01
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Posted on:1/19/03 6:22 PM
Last Updated:10/11/03 6:21 AM
Pattern Size:Plus-Sized Regular Petite 
Review Rating: Helpful by 3 people    Very Helpful by 13 people   
See other patterns in this category: Tops    
Available for sale on PR: $16.00 Pattern Details
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Available for sale on PR: $16.00 Pattern Details
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34 Comments      Login to Add a Comment    
Alana Robson said... (10/13/03 7:37 PM) Reply
Well, I agree with everyone who says that this top needs a wee bit more width in the bust. For the future, I've had success tissue-fitting sleeveless knit patterns, even if they are zero or negative ease. I pin the front and back together at shoulder and side seam, and try it on myself or dressform, pulling so it fits tightly to shoulder and bust. If I see a big "gape" in the front armhole, I figure it's not going to get much better in the fabric. I go ahead and pinch out the dart, then pivot it to go vertically from bust to hem, then if I don't actually need the extra room at the waist and hip, I take it out at the side seams.
Skymom said... (10/13/03 8:40 AM) Reply
Deepika, this top is quite successful aside from the gaping armholes, which is great since you intend to wear it under a cardigan. I think the draft of the pattern allows extra room through the armscye for the sleeve, and when that goes, that surplus just flaps around. Also, if I'm not mistaken, this top really doesn't give a lot of bust room--for the actual me it's perfect, but if I wear my "enhancement" bra (molded foam cups--which bring me up to maybe a full a-cup!), mine start to pull a bit through the bust. For a similar top, try that Vogue funnel neck top that's package in with the wrap-over front one that Irina has reviewed. It has a CF seam and set-in sleeves, which will give better coverage at the shoulders.
Deepika said... (10/13/03 7:11 AM) Reply
What a cool idea lindrix but unfortunately it wont work in this case because the gaping is way too much. I think I am going to have to do Full Bust Alteration in this pattern and then put an armhole dart. In any case I dont think I'll be making the sleeveless version of this top again because the bra straps show. If I do, I'll probably alter the pattern to give more coverage on the shoulders. Thanks for your kind commments everyone!
lindrix said... (10/12/03 8:09 PM) Reply
Hi Deepika, When I have something like your wrinkles happen in either an armscye or neckline, and, it's not too much fabric, I use what I call the Tiny Elastic Technique. Choose the skinniest elastic thread or cording you can find. Using a tapestry needle, thread a length of elastic a little longer than the entire circumference of the opening. Open a stitch or two on the inside of the underarm seam. Insert the tapestry needle and thread the elastic through the hem. With the top on, adjust the elastic to gently pull in the excess, tie a knot and tack down the elastic. I've found this works best if the amount to pull in isn't too excessive. It works well on both wovens and knits. --lin
cindyann said... (10/12/03 2:21 PM) Reply
Thanks for the tip on the chiffon bias Georgene. I like that idea. I have a bulky knit that I might try that on.
Elona said... (10/12/03 1:53 PM) Reply
What a cute top, but, yes, definitely full-bust adjustment material. In "Power Sewing Step-by-Step," Sandra Betzina devotes most of pages 28-30 to this subject. In the absence of a dart, she likes to ease the armhole from about where the front armhole notch would be down to the side seam, and then draw things up a certain amount for each bust cup size. She offers various ways for you to secure this change. The info is well worth looking at, to visualize what's going on.
els said... (10/11/03 7:39 PM) Reply
I agree with Gorgene about the binding I never turn and topstich,always use a binding in a knit top,and in tees I always bind the neckline.
Georgene said... (10/11/03 2:22 PM) Reply
I am not a fan of the turn and topstitch method of finishing. If you want to control that armhole, you have to set on *something*. A self binding inside, with a 1/4" topstitch will look the same as turn and topstitch, albeit a bit more bulk sometimes. If you are worried about bulk, don't use self, use a chiffon bias in a matching color. Some knits don't ravel at all so you can set on the binding, easing in the area that you need to control, and then just turn and topstitch without folding under the edge. Some times a quick and dirty finish is just that! With just a little more time you can have an elegant finish. It gets easier with practice.
Deepika said... (10/11/03 1:44 PM) Reply
This is really good stuff everyone. I got a ton of useful information here. Hmm.. I understand that by using the fusible tape I am destroying the stretch of the armhole but I did that only because this knit has very poor recovery. Its a rayon/cotton blend. Has no lycra in it. If you look at my other tank top from the same fabric and fusible tapes, it fits so well. Georgene boy you are asking for trouble ;-) I will surely bring this pattern (and a few others) to solve the mystery of full bust alterations. Thanks so much for helping me everyone. another question What do you guys do generally to stabilize the armholes in knits, except using the clear elastic cause that just does not work for me.
CarolynGM said... (10/11/03 1:26 PM) Reply
A clever idea to make that top without sleeves. It looks very stylish. My impression of the fit was the same as Georgene's. From the side, I can tell that it is a little tight in the bust, causing increased pull on the armhole, which is already a little too big without the additional strain. With a little more tweaking, you will have developed a very original shell. I bet it will look great under your cardigan even without any more fixing.
Georgene said... (10/11/03 1:02 PM) Reply
Gigi may be right about destroying the stretch and recovery of your armhole with the tape. And the advice from Els about easing the armhole is good too. Here's my 2 cents: You still need a little extra across the front bust. See those little strain marks under the arm from the front side? Looks like you could add 1/4-3/8" to the sides (to 0 about 3" down from the armhole) to allow for your full bust, but you would need to fill in the armhole so that it didn't get too narrow across the chest above the armhole. Bring the pattern to NYC for PR Weekend and we can look at it if you want. Hard to explain but easy to do!
Gina Marie said... (10/11/03 12:34 PM) Reply
All in all thats a realy nicely drafted top !! I like the neckline and the shoulders very much, really unique! I think a dartin the armsyce towards the bust would fix it, so it'll look smashing when worn as a twin set !!
Janet D said... (10/11/03 10:05 AM) Reply
OOPS! Too early to be doing this. I hit submit without writing anything first. I'm wondering if the style of sleeve may be prone to gaping if you leave them off. If you look at the pattern photo, there seems to be wrinkles in the same area on the darker top. Plus, the amount of stretch in the fabric would affect the outcome as well.
Gigi Louis said... (10/11/03 8:03 AM) Reply
D, els is right, you need to ease in that area. Also, I think you are making the gaping more pronounced by using the fusible tapes because the fabric can no longer stretch and recover.
els said... (10/11/03 7:38 AM) Reply
Hi Deepika you made a lovely tanktop,I agree what Tonia says about pinching a small dart out I think thats good for woven fabric,but not enough for a knit fabric .To alter this top I would sugest to keep your armhole short which means ease in the excess fabric ( the pinched dart from your tanktop).measure the wide of the pinched dart use that measurement to ease the knit fabric in.You can do that by sewing a polyester seamtape or use a narrow strip of lining fabric just a hairline away from the stitchline.If you measure the armhole line first and cut a piece of lining or tape which has to be sewn you see it is shorter in lenght,it is inportant to measure also the front and back,put a mark on the tape from side seam to shoulder front and shoulder to side seam back.Baste it in place and ease in the excess fabric now you can sew and finish the armhole seams with a facing,band or whatever you want.If you want to use fusible tape you can ease in the excess fabric also but it is easier to use than a bias cut fusible tape which you can stretch at the front armhole to keep the armhole short.For a new tanktop you can sew a staystitching line a hairline away around the armholes before you sew anything else on that tanktop.Good luck with the next one.
Tonia Van Dyk said... (10/11/03 6:41 AM) Reply
Deepika, I think you may need to pinch a small dart out of the front armhole, by the bust area. You would pinch this out of the pattern, before cutting, to give a better fit around the bust area. You can pinch the amount on the shell you are wearing in the picture to figure out how much needs to come off the next one you make, but I'm not so sure if you can do anything about it on the current model. I have to do this with all the New Look tank top patterns too.
KarenP said... (2/18/03 5:41 PM) Reply
You're tops look great! I'm going to have to add this one to my ever-growing wish list.
Star said... (2/18/03 4:28 PM) Reply
I've got to get this pattern. It looks terrific on you, and those colors...very nice job!
Debbie Spriggs said... (2/18/03 12:57 PM) Reply
Lovely again! Another inspiring garment, Deepika! I ordered this pattern last week, and have a piece of black boucle knit just waiting to try it.
Karla Kizer said... (2/18/03 10:16 AM) Reply
You've become quite the little designer, haven't you? The changes you made on this gray version are perfect, and the top looks wonderful.
Rhonda Noah said... (2/18/03 7:21 AM) Reply
Deepika, I love that gray top on you. It's a very flattering color. Of course, the fit of this simple top is wonderful as well. It looks so stylish. I'm glad you had power and could spend the day sewing.
Debbie Spriggs said... (1/20/03 12:34 PM) Reply
This is sooooo pretty! Beautiful color, and great fabric.
Karen Bowers said... (1/19/03 10:37 PM) Reply
deepika, great job! aren't these great? it reminds me of an eileen fisher sweater i bought. let's see i've made 2 boatnecks, and i think 3 funnelnecks so far. and more planned! well worth the price of the pattern when you make bunches of tops from it! and i agree -- the shoulder fit is great!
Deepika said... (1/19/03 10:00 PM) Reply
Thanks everyone for such nice comments. Sewnew I have the cowl top also. The only difference is that cowl top is set in sleeves and this one is raglan sleeves with shoulder dart. The cowl top's cowl is snugger than this one.
sewnew said... (1/19/03 9:37 PM) Reply
Deepika, very pretty color and great looking top. How does this pattern differ from the cowl top? I just ordered cowl, guess I'll have to get this one too.
andrearn9 said... (1/19/03 9:21 PM) Reply
Great review and a stunning top! I may have to get this one too. Also, thanks for the great tips!
Diane E said... (1/19/03 8:35 PM) Reply
You are terrific. Did you know that I just got this pattern and planned to make it this week? Did you know that I would need any tips I could get? Thanks for making this even easier for me to sew! Your top is absolutely beautiful. I actually like the length and think it would look really pretty over a long, lean skirt.
Kitty said... (1/19/03 8:23 PM) Reply
Oh how gorgeous !! That shade looks just wonderul with your colouring !! I really have to order some of her patterns...
Teri said... (1/19/03 8:01 PM) Reply
Loes should give PR a commission. I wasn't to thrilled about this pattern until I saw it made up. Off I go to add it to my wish list.......
said... (1/19/03 7:32 PM) Reply
That is a great looking top, Deepika.
Gigi Louis said... (1/19/03 7:00 PM) Reply
Just beautiful! I'm hoping Cynthia's will get this top this week. I want to make the funnel neck top and it's cold right now!
GorgeousFabrics said... (1/19/03 6:52 PM) Reply
Great Job, Deepika! I was thinking of getting this pattern. I bought some terry fabric last week that I thought would look great in the boatneck version. -Ann
Lisa Laree said... (1/19/03 6:44 PM) Reply
Lovely top, Deepika! I'll be honest, I didn't really think this was a top I needed when it first came out; now I've added it to my Wish List...nuff said?
starlene said... (1/19/03 6:40 PM) Reply
Nice job Deepika, I love the fabric, it is very flatterying.
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