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Pattern Reviews> Simplicity> 7229 (1 hour)

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Reviewed by:kerina

About kerinastar
Member since: 1/1/03
Reviews: 5 (patterns: 5)
Skill level:Beginner
Favored by: 2 people
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Posted on:1/30/03 12:41 PM
Last Updated:1/30/03 12:46 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people    Very Helpful by 1 people   
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19 Comments      Login to Add a Comment    
Joann Eidhoff said... (2/14/03 6:18 PM) Reply
I always use a fusable to fuse the seam allowance to the fabric itself in the seam area. That way you can't run into a "dead-end" while you're trying to put in the elastic. I read this little tip somewhere along the way, while I was still sewing babies' clothes. My youngest is now eleven, so that's been some time.
Julia Graham said... (2/7/03 8:44 PM) Reply
Kerina, these look great! Very flattering and funky. I _dream_ of things like getting 200 pounds of fabric at auction "for a song" -- what fun! :-) And you're right, it really loosens up the creative juices if you don't have any investment to screw up.
Mel.J said... (1/31/03 9:59 PM) Reply
Sewin Stuff I hope you don't mind - I'm going to add your buttonhole tips to the tips and techniques section. Lots of good points that will help! Thanks!
kerina said... (1/31/03 9:56 AM) Reply
Thank you so much for all the advice. I'm especially happy about all the buttonhole tips as I'm making a cardigan now in a very pale fabric and I am quite nervous about the buttons. I so want this one to look nice. I'm going to test, test, test as you suggest and I know they will come out better then my last ones if I use your ideas. thanks again!
Rhonda Noah said... (1/31/03 9:41 AM) Reply
Sewin' Stuff, great tips on buttonholes! Thank you! I love the idea to starch first.
xxx xxx xxx xxx said... (1/31/03 2:42 AM) Reply
Hi Kerina nice Job Buttonhole tips: 1) Never Never Never go over a buttonhole twice that is a sure sign of a home made garment have you ever seen RTW with double stitched holes? 2) Shorten your stitch length even if it is set automatically small increments will fill in your buttonholes nicely 3) Use some Water dissolving stabilizer (Sulky Brand is good) on the top of your buttonhole - I steam mine away I don't even need water it really makes the Buttonholes neat and aids in the cutting fray problem 4) Invest in a buttonhole chisel and mat It is a very sharp blade you push through the buttonhole instead of slicing it with a seam ripper - much much neater 5) Always Match the interfacing if you can 6) Starch and press the area before stitching the crispness of the fabric will also prevent puckering in the button hole area 7) Use 100% cotton thread whenever possible it has a really nice sheen and will not stretch like polyester or poly blends and again prevents puckering and helps get a clean cut MOST IMPORTANT!!!!! TEST TEST TEST well worth the time make sure you use the same layers as the garment you will be putting the buttonholes on (Interfacing, fashion fabric lining if it applies) I don't mean like to sound like a know it all in the buttonhole area but, I am a garment sewing instructor and my pet peeve it HOMEMADE BUTTONHOLES that is usually the first dead give away it is not RTW With a few tricks of the trade we can achieve a professional look Again great Job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Stabilizer and button hole cutters are available @ Coltilda or Nancy’s notions or any large Fabric Chain I think even WAL-Mart Hope this helps
Everyday Sewist said... (1/30/03 11:36 PM) Reply
For threading elastic, I use an elastic guide--cheap little piece of plastic I bought at Jo-Ann's. It makes it so easy--much easier than a safety pin. And yes, I do trim the seam allowances that are going to be inside the casing. The book Fit for Real People is great but it doesn't include pants. I highly recommend another book by the same people, called Pants for Every Body. Or, just check out the "Tips" section here on PR, for Gigi's tip on "fitting pants as you sew." I used this technique and ended up with perfect fitting pants the first time I tried fitting them this way.
Rhonda Noah said... (1/30/03 8:23 PM) Reply
What fun pants! I really like those. To help with threading something through a casing, first press your seam allowances in the direction you want them to go (open, to the back, etc.). Then use your machine to baste the seam allowances to the pants. In this case you would need to do it before you fold your yoke in half probably. Stitch your casing and you will have no problem threading your drawstring through. Remove the basting stitches and you've saved your sanity! ;-) And do get a bodkin - they can be easier to maneuver than a safety pin, although I still use those too.
Skymom said... (1/30/03 6:01 PM) Reply
Great pants! They look very of the moment to me. My tip for hiding the interfacing when the buttonholes are cut open: use black (as suggested) or, if you only have white and are in the midst of a creative jag, just use white and later touch up the part that shows with a Sharpie.
Kitty said... (1/30/03 3:37 PM) Reply
One thing I always do to button holes is apply seam sealent and let it dry before I cut open the button holes. IMHO they seem to last longer and hold up to repeated use better.
kerina said... (1/30/03 3:11 PM) Reply
Thanks for all the tips. I love this site. you are all so great and helpful!
Irene said... (1/30/03 2:51 PM) Reply
Kerina, your pants look great. Adding to previous hints for buttonholes, you might want to experiment on scraps to see what happens if: (1) you use a heavier thread, especially in the needle (covers more), (2) you use a wider zig zag stitch to cover the area surrounding the buttonhole, and (3) if you have a machine or attachment that repeat the same buttonhole over and over, try going around twice, then locking down. Corded buttonholes are another possibility. As for threading the elastic, try to be patient as you get a feel for moving the elastic through a casing. There are special bodkins (non-pointy pulling thingies) for elastic that keep the elastic relatively flat. They are sort of like popsicle sticks that are tapered on the leading end, with slots on the back end. You weave your elastic up and down into the slots, then thread the bodkin through your casing. The elastic doesn't bunch up as much as it does when I use a safety pin. It can be worthwhile to tack down the seam allowances, just within the casing area, so that your bodkin/safety pin/elastic end don't get stuck underneath. You only have to tack the side from which you are threading the elastic (if you're pressing seams open). If you have serged seams, and they are all facing the same way (clockwise or counter-clockwise) around your waist, thead the elastic so that it goes in the same direction as the seams. Keep up your great progress!
cindyann said... (1/30/03 2:22 PM) Reply
What a cute pattern. Good job on your first pants. I'm adding this to my wish list because I think they would be great in capri and shorts too. Thanks for the review.
KathleenS said... (1/30/03 1:41 PM) Reply
Those look good! Bias skirts are a bit more clingy and drapey. They will also be closer-fitting than an on-grain skirt cut from the same pattern. However, some fabrics don't work so well on the bias.
AnneM said... (1/30/03 1:40 PM) Reply
Also: if you haven't been over to the message board on this web site, go over there (see upper left corner of this page for the link), and check out all the tips there. They don't necessarily apply to your specific questions here, but they are helpful.
AnneM said... (1/30/03 1:38 PM) Reply
I like those! Great use of the patterned fabric. Black interfacing will help on the buttonholes. Also, put a pin at each end of the button hole before you cut it open to make certain that you don't go to far. When sewing my button holes, at the end I change the stitch length to zero to make certain it secures the stitch. Another thing you coud do is hand-thread the "tale" to the wrong side & secure it there. Attach a really big safety pin to your drawcord before trying to thread it, and you should find it much easier. Make certain that you let a bias-cut skirt hang overnight prior to hemming it. I think the bias skirts have a little more "drape".
Lou. said... (1/30/03 1:25 PM) Reply
Your Q about the bias...The skirt will be cut on the bias, which will make it hang different, it's hard to explain....but I made my firs bias cut skirt not long ago, and loved the fit.
Lou. said... (1/30/03 1:22 PM) Reply
Forgot to say, Love the pants!!
Lou. said... (1/30/03 1:22 PM) Reply
Kerina, my suggetsions would be: 1) you can get black interfacing, I've never had that problem with the buttonhole though so I can't really help here. 2) I think trimming the seam allowance would help a lot. Are you threading the drawstring with a saftey pin attached at the end? It makes it a lot easier. I had a lot of fitting problems with Simplicity, so I tried KS and haven't turned back since, although a good book I have which was recommended by many, many people is Fit for Real People.
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