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1753 (3-piece suit)
Mens - Jackets
4 more reviews
by 5 people
by 16 people
About Philip Kime
Member since: 1/30/03
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2/4/03 8:05 PM
2/6/03 10:12 AM
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Mens - Jackets
Mens - Pants
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I dislike "fake" pockets. I don't see the point. That is a good description - a superficial pattern. It sounds like you made it into a good, functional pattern, though. It would be nice to have more men's patterns available.n I look forward to the picture.
2/4/03 8:31 PM
Great review Phillip. Thanks for the time breakdown on each item. I'm looking forward to the pictures also.
2/4/03 8:57 PM
Wonderful review-clean and informative. Do tell, how do you like the collarless style for jacket? Are there any drawbacks? I look forward to the photos!
2/4/03 9:21 PM
Thanks for the great review - it's also a good reminder that I'm not ready to venture into suits yet. I like the term "aesthetic crime".
2/4/03 9:22 PM
How can you tell the pockets in the jacket are fake. On trousser's you can tell from the drawing. What a lot of extra work ot make them functional. I thought that Vogue men's patterns would be good. Thanks for the review.
2/5/03 2:04 AM
Aesthetic crime, a very good term, thank you for the review, it gives you something to think about referring to the state Vogue patterns is, but you did handle this very well, and I agree with you that natural fibers are the best, I never buy else unless the fabric is something special. You have made very nice things. Anne, the fake pockets are of no use particurarly, they are just an extra designing feature, just think about using a pocket in a very very tight jacket that goes along every curve, it's useless there but it might please the eye. I don't like them very much either, but they sometimes liven up the model.
2/5/03 5:11 AM
Fake pockets like on this pattern simpy have the pocket welts and nothing behind them. I like collarless suits for the summer - I made this to replace a collarless black linen suit that is wearing out (unlined ...) because it is very hard to find such suits in any decent shop. The best part is that the material was in a sale and, I think, mispriced ... the total fabric price was about £50. A suit of this sort in a decent shop would have been about £600 RTW or £800-£1000 MTM ...
2/5/03 9:27 AM
Philip I have been reading your reviews with interest. They are very helpful especially since this year I plan to get into sewing for my husband. Why are there so few patterns for men!!
2/5/03 10:43 AM
In general, fashion has damaged our own tastes - we are so used to being told what to wear, we forget to develop our own tastes and so, it atrophies. Men are much worse in this respect so no pattern company would be bothered throwing money at the terminally fashion damaged. I started making clothes simply because it is harder and harder to find what I want, as opposed to what I am "supposed" to wear according to the latest arid trend.
2/5/03 11:11 AM
I have added links in the review text to the details I mention.
2/5/03 11:12 AM
Wonderful suit, Philip! You insire me to make more for my husband. He works in high-tech, so he doesn't wear suits very often, but I should make him more pants. Another comment on the trouser lining, or lack thereof: instead of self fabric, you might also consider underlining the fronts and backs just to the knees. Easy to do if you use china silk and cut the pattern pieces on the crosswise grain. That way the selvage is at the knee line. This provides a nice finish that won't show through. I learned that from a Claire Shaeffer women's pant pattern, and she learned the technique from bespoke tailors in London. Again, great job! -Ann
2/5/03 11:26 AM
Ah - a nice idea about the lining - I have to make some trousers next week so I'll try it. I also work in high-tech things quite often and make a point of wearing a three-piece suit even when crawling under desks etc. Aesthetics before comfort ...
2/5/03 11:35 AM
Philip, if you are "intermediate", I am horrified at what to call myself. I think you are "advanced+", or is it just very brave? Your suits and waistcoats are terrific. It is so nice to read of others that are allergic to un-natural fibers. I love reading/looking at others creations on this site, but always have to re-evaluate if it is made in a poly or something--how it would look/drape if I made it in a linen or cotton. I think your pants also turned out very nicely--often pants have that homemade look and yours do not. What sort of buttonholes do you use? Congratulations on your efforts and dedication to keeping such aesthetic high standards, it is nice to see.
2/5/03 12:44 PM
My buttonholes are basic 4-step machine buttonholes. I have a very basic Janome 1822 machine which I use for everything. I'd only consider changing machines to get keyhole buttonholes as this machine does everything I need apart from that ... I'm certainly only intermediate - anybody could have done this I think - people seem to be afraid to start, but once you start such a project, you just follow the instructions to the end and voila. If I thought for too long about how hard it might have been, I'd never have started ...
2/5/03 2:41 PM
Thanks for the great review. I have yet to do a man's tailored suit, but it's something on my list that I'd like to try... just have to find a guinea pig willing to let me do it. I like using natural fabrics for lining as well, especially in our warm climate. If you can find a good silk satin/charmeuse (ooo... there goes the budget!) or even a rayon bemberg it works well and is a bit slippery too. Good for a comfortable proper lining. Wonderful suit. I wanna make one tooooooo!
2/5/03 2:52 PM
Very nice work Phillip, and thank you for the review. It is informative about the pockets, I would expect that it being a Vogue pattern that it would be the complete sewing package, with the pockets, and then if the sewer didn't want to make waistcoat pockets it would be their choice to make welts only. I think you're an advanced sewer, yes any person could make the pattern as written, but it is that little extra you have to be able to add the proper fittings to the suit that makes your skill advanced. I have read all your reviews, and keep them coming! I'm wondering about the shirt that you're wearing with the suit - made by you too?
2/5/03 3:29 PM
Yes, the shirt is mine. I use to get shirts like that, very badly made (in Pakistan) from a local shop that sold them as almost "fancy dress". They are my favourite style but after a while, they couldn't get hold of any more so I took one apart, bought a sewing machine and made a dozen last summer. That's how I started.
2/5/03 3:47 PM
Oh, please keep the reviews comming! I have a sports coat waiting in the wings for my husband. You are starting to inspire me!
2/5/03 4:02 PM
Why is it "in the wings"? If I can make a suit, then I'm damn sure you can make a jacket - start cutting.
2/5/03 4:50 PM
Philip, thanks for a great review. Can't believe the pockets were fake! Shame on Vogue. Don't know if this would interest you or not but have you tried www.michaelsfabrics.com for Super 120 wools, pure linens and Egyptian cotton shirtings? Fabulous price/quality ratio and wonderful shop to deal with. Michael is very happy to send swatches, too. NAYY. Your talent and Michael's fabrics would be a terrific combination. Of course, you may have all the great fabric you need closer to hand, and shipping costs do add up. Michael's son's name is Philip, too, which may have been what jogged my memory!
2/5/03 9:39 PM
Thank you - the trouble is, I am in Edinburgh, UK and that makes shipping quite expensive ... I have found that the traditional weavers in Bradford, UK are very helpful - they sent me samples of nine different grades/types of black linen a few days ago and I have some arriving next week to try ...
2/5/03 10:28 PM
Umm, Philip, you got started on some shirts you took apart last Summer? You don't mean got started sewing last summer, right? Great suit, you are extremely talented!!
2/6/03 1:03 AM
Philip, great review. I wondered how you found this pattern for fit? I have a Vogue pattern for a suit for my partner, which I'll probably make in fairly funky fabrics to make it more casual, but with the time it takes, I HATE ill-fitting patterns. (Especially as he's not that keen on pins and fitting!)
2/6/03 7:03 AM
Yes, I started sewing making things early last summer. This pattern is a good fit for the sizes - I made the 40 but since I'm a 39.25 ish chest, I made some of the side seams 6/8 instead of 5/8 and it's fine. I've found that an adjustable dummy is essential for jackets and waistcoats but you must also force the person who is to wear it to have proper fittings ...
2/6/03 9:15 AM
Nine different types of black linen - wow! Guess my suggestion was like taking coal to Newcastle. Could you give us an idea of what the linen prices run? Good quality linen is not easy to find here, especially in the lighter "handkerchief" weights. (I'm near Toronto.) DD will be visiting Manchester in March. Since she's just learning to sew, some really nice linen would be a treat for her to work on. TIA.
2/8/03 8:30 PM
Deepika, it seems to me there are quite a few patterns for men in the Kwik Sew line. I can't think of anything they don't have (well, except maybe suits, but my SO doesn't wear them so...). But, they do have the typical casual stuff most guys wear in my local.
2/8/03 8:37 PM
The linens were very reasonable as far as I can tell - lightweight coarse-weave for about 4.99 UKP for 60" wide per meter. I was shown round Holland and Sherry (Saville row suppliers) on Saturday - they start about 60 UKP per meter and go up to about 450 UKP per meter ...
2/9/03 7:25 PM
Your work is so impressive! Thanks for reviewing this.
3/31/03 10:38 AM
I agree with Philip and Deepika about a lack of men's patterns. It is so frustrating to go into the stores and get excited about seeing the new catalogues out, but then find that there are only the same old patterns for men! Sigh...
7/27/03 9:22 PM
Jay, where have you been? It's good to have you back on PR :)
7/28/03 2:19 PM
Excellent review. Thanks so much Philip! You've made suit-making seem do-able (even if it is a long project).
3/18/04 8:11 AM
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