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Pattern Reviews> Wild Ginger> Pattern Master Software (Yoked jeans)

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Reviewed by:Mbarkle

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Member since: 9/26/02
Reviews: 105 (patterns: 102)
Skill level:Intermediate
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Posted on:3/9/03 10:09 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 4 people    Very Helpful by 8 people   
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Rustybobn said... (3/11/03 11:42 AM) Reply
"Burning a hole in my stash" ! Tee hee! I love that expression, Mary. I, too, am working through PatternMaster's fitting process hoping for great rewards soon. Hang in there!
Mbarkle said... (3/10/03 10:55 AM) Reply
thanks, guys. Yes, my slopers definitely are higher in the back than in the front, so I thought I had the waist measurement corrected. Not sure why the jeans didn't draft that way. (You can see my red panties -- KS Beautiful Lingerie -- sticking out above them.) This is the first time I used a separate waistband, but even with a faced waistband, the sloper waist stood out and away from my back. It was high enough but not curved in enough to sit where it should. I copied the pockets from my favorite Land's End jeans. I didn't compare the yoke size though, just went with the pattern. I will try lengthening the crotch. I am so frustrated with that back dip. I was hoping PMB would magically solve the problem. With respect to waist measurements, my one inch above the belly button measurement that I used for the fitting shell waistline is actually one inch bigger than the place where I wear my pants, because I have definite rolls on my tummy and side. Probably shouldn't have chosen jeans as my first project, but I had that stretch denim burning a hole in my stash. I love getting your comments, I tend to focus on construction issues when criticizing them, I'm still not very good at evaluating fit.
Everyday Sewist said... (3/10/03 10:37 AM) Reply
I should probably add a disclaimer. I have not made jeans before. The information I posted in my comment above is based on a pair of Gap khakis I copied (successfully). :)
Everyday Sewist said... (3/10/03 10:34 AM) Reply
First of all, the jeans are not bad. Looks like you are almost there in getting a perfect fit. I do agree that you need more room in the back crotch. And the yoke is too big. I would add length at the crotch point, and at the top of the seat. Then shorten the yoke so the point hits higher. Lengthening the crotch point will make the thighs bigger. It is o.k. to narrow them at the side seams. If you look at a jeans pattern, the side seams curve inward at the thigh. You might try measuring a favorite pair of jeans to see how yours compare. Measure the crotch, the yoke, and then the width at the waist, high hip, hip, and thigh. I did this recently and it was really helpful for me.
MaryBeth said... (3/10/03 6:39 AM) Reply
PS: try re-taking your meansurements. Something(s) very off. Start with your waist measurement. Wrap your waist with 1/4" elastic and bend to each side. that's your natural waist. It will feel unnaturally high. But it's true. Then meansure where you would like to wear your pants. That's your skirt/pants pants waist. Please call wild ginger and ask for help with measurements so you don't get even more frustrated! I'm hangin' with you and wish I could help more!
Jules/Vancouver BC said... (3/10/03 3:59 AM) Reply
Not bad at all, Mary. From a style point, I think the yoke itself is too big - placing the pockets at an aesthetically pleasing distance makes them look as though they're hanging down on your thighs... I think that might help with the fit in the back too - the yoke point looks as though it's the "seat" of your problem *giggle* The yoke point on my favourite jeans is only about 1 1/2 - 2 inches from the waistband.
MaryBeth said... (3/10/03 1:17 AM) Reply
Hey, Mary, glad to see your jeans! Not perfect but not too bad at all. I sure hope you post these pictures to the patternmasterchat list photo album and ask for some help from the list members. Unfortunately 2 of the "resident" experts are on vacation but I can think of at least 4 other people who are very qualified and would be happy to try to help you. As soon as I finish my DH's outback duster jeans is next both for him and for me. So, I'll be crying soon, maybe! Thanks very much for posting here.
Diana Hilliard said... (3/9/03 11:46 PM) Reply
Congrats on your stick-to-it-iveness! The fit looks really good from the front and side. What struck me about the back wasn't the peak, but the way the pant pulled down at the back waist, and therefore didn't fit smoothly to your waist. I think this really hit me because that has been a great challenge for me too. What has helped is lengthening the back crotch somewhat. (Not a deeper curve...adding about 3/4-1" to the point where the crotch cure meets the inseam, on the inseam.) I don't know if this would change your nice fit from the side, though. Alternatively, it looks like raising the mid back about an inch and tapering to the sides would help a lot. While I am commenting, may I suggest a smaller pocket? You have a nice butt (grin!) and I think a smaller pocket would flatter it more!
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