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|8 more reviews|
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|Reviewed by:||Terri A|| |
|Posted on:||7/17/08 1:00 AM |
|Last Updated:||9/14/14 6:13 PM|
|Pattern Photo: |
More Info provided by Terri A
|Review Rating:|| Helpful by 1 people Very Helpful by 9 people |
|Fabric:||Satin [See other projects in this fabric]|
The bride informed me it is their 6 yr Anniversary! As I was hunting photos for her, I realized that this review (One of my first and pretty terrible) needed updating VERY BADLY!!! So I have tried to add the correct photos in links.
I had drawn the entire skirt myself, and although starting off with the bodice from a pattern, I ended up drawing the bodice myself too. This ended up being entirely drawn up by myself, so I changed the description to match that, as it bears zero resemblance to the commercial Vogue pattern I wanted to use to begin with.
Bustled using the ribbons and loops...
I have learned a lot so far, and am a bit humbled at everything involved in making a dress like this. There are so many things to consider.
Really wish I could have had more time and get it done faster but there was no rush actually as the dress is not needed quite yet.
I added a waist stay and snaps at the upper edge of the back. I hand sewed in all the inside areas so everything is attached and neat looking. I also sewed in all the buttons on the back and I have to say that is quite a challenge with the weight of the dress and pull with the very tight bodice and waist. It would be impossible without a waist stay of some kind to really hold everything in and allow the closure to lay straight!
I didn't realize just how important that is until now.
Will post a photo when totally done with the dress as it is still WIP-
I am so humbled - this was HARD. My hat is totally off to anyone who can do this for a living What a challenge!!!
I have tried to post as many helpful elements as possible as I worked on this, as the process of pinning and cutting multiple layers of tulle to a given shape was the most unusual part of this process.
I also learned to pay attention to the instincts that say: "Maybe that seam should change...." If it doesn't look good to you, do something about it. Also, never give up on something really important - keep thinking about it until you have a solution!
This may seem a bit much, but during time that I cannot sew, when engaged in other important life chores, I try to construct the garment in my mind, step by step and visualize it. I imagine it all going together and what issues might come up. I find by the time I actually sew it, I have a game plan, and I feel I have sewn it before.
(I was apparently taking this very seriously lol!!!)
I have underlined in a sturdier fabric. I added boning to the front on the interlining to make sure it will hold up well. I added a panel to both sides of the back closure area.
I wasn't paying attention and with the first pass of the iron over the silk ironing cloth imprinted one of the boning strips on the front. It was just *barely* there but I had to redo that whole piece anyway.
Afterwards, remembering to slip a ham or something in there to keep the boning from being pressed against the satin.
Still WIP... I have completely redrawn the front and back bodice, since the straight seam was there on both sides, and this time cut it out couture style in the back incorporating a placket for the satin buttons from the start on the right back piece.
The other thing inherently wrong with the original bodice I hoped to use is (now oop Vogue 8387) you have essentially a c cup on the one side and more like a b cup on the straight line side as the pattern was designed. This is because the actual pieces that form the straight side curve only very slightly by nature. This leaves very little room for the bust on just one side and plenty on the other. After redrawing the lines both seams allow the same bust room on both sides.
The tulle skirt portion and bustling mechanism are finished and now I need to make the bodice and add satin button and loop closure.
The tulle skirt portion is seamless and includes 12 layers of Bridal illusion over a base layer which is essentially an altered version of McCalls 4109 Evening Elegance petticoat view D in a light satin and simple lining. This forms the underskirt and support and a bit of a waist-stay
The tulle was cut from a 50 yd bolt 120" /128"" wide in the following dimensions:
back 50" for train
I cut the circle and slit out of the center of these layers of tulle after pinning them together to minimize shifting.
I used the typical math to determine the diameter so as to draw the circle with a string and pencil (I know I know!) in order to gather it at a 50/50 ratio and have it come out at the brides waist measurement.
diameter= circle circumference (twice the bride's waist measurement) divided by pi (3.14) or something like that.
When I was done with that part I cut a slit down from the back of that circle for accessing the zipper in the satin underskirt.
I didn't have a table big enough to cut the lengths in graduating fractions all the way around so my husband helped me pull a line off the waist and carefull mark and then cut all the way around to arrive at the final lengths all the way around.
So, you would divide the distance like from the front at 43" to the sides at 46" and determine what fractional increase every two inches you need to mark. Then do the same thing from the side point to the back and so on.
Since it is all one pinned together section of layers with no seam it is very important to pin everywhere with safety pins to keep it from getting completely out of whack.
Also when I layered those original 50 yards I cut them in lengths that covered the front and center and back total length. This is really important!!!
The tulle layers were already the correct width to cover the sides.
I stabilized the slit with satin ribbon and attached me-invented ribbons and loops to create a bustling mechanism and a pretty concealment for the slit and the zipper access area.
All of this is to be worn over the petticoat/slip in my other review.
End result: Happy bride.
This is the *FAVORITEST* dress I ever made...
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