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Thanks for the helpful review. I never realized KS includes some ease in the bust section (I haven't tried a KS top yet) - just one more reason I've got to try more KS patterns!
9/12/03 7:08 PM
I look forward to the comparisons. What a nice, gentle color that fabric has. I agree, the neckband does look a little casual. This is one of the patterns I've been looking at. There are a few similar KS patterns that I have been debating between.
9/12/03 7:10 PM
Lisa, I always raise the armholes two inches on my KS patterns. They are sized for a misses' 5'6" figure, so shorter women will often find the armhole need to be lifted. Actually, they ought to tell you that the base pattern is sized for 5'6", but when the sizes are graded up or down they get taller or shorter. This is true of most pattern companies, but there is another sizing fact about Kwik Sew that is unusual. If you look at the size chart, each size is given in for a measurement range. For example, XL is for a 43 to 45 inch bust. The woman who measures 43 will have more ease than the one who measures 45, when they are both wearing the same "size." For a close fit, women at the smaller end of a given size might do better to go down a size. I have very good results with Kwik Sew, but it took some trial and error to get the sizing to work.
9/12/03 7:28 PM
Thanks, Mini (the lightbulb has just gone on). I wondered why no one else seemed to have trouble with the armholes being too low...and two inches was such a significant amount to raise it. Karen, the Kwik Sew patterns have shaping in them that the Big 4 frequently omits, but you do have to play with them a bit to get the fit adjusted, like Mini said. The knit tops tend to be a bit big on me; the woven tops tend to be a bit small. I think once I catch on to the adjustments I need to make (like raising the armsceye) I will get much better mileage out of my (growing) Kwik Sew collection. But it's trial and error for a while! ;)
9/12/03 10:01 PM
Thanks for the review--I like the pattern and your version looks very nice. I'll chime in that I have a similar problem with KS armscyes as well. They are way to low on me, and I am 5'8". If I make the size indicated by my full bust, I look like I have a web under my arm. Gigi Lewis has suggested going down a size and doing a full bust enlargement--I've not tried this yet, but definitely will do so. I suspect I will need to continue raising the armscye, however. It's a good 1.5 inches too low for me, on average. I do love KS patterns, however.
9/13/03 0:22 AM
From Mini: "The woman who measures 43 will have more ease than the one who measures 45, when they are both wearing the same "size." ............... I often trace a KS pattern exactly between 2 sizes for a more "custom" fit. This way, the amount of ease is reduced to that required for the smaller end of the measurement range. I've always reduced the length in the upper chest and back, making matching adjustments on the sleeve. I thought I was doing it because of my short stature, but it sounds as if everyone has a similar problem with the deep armholes. Another area I always have to adjust is crotch depth; the rise is almost 2" longer than mine. Obviously, they are drafted for people who spring from a very different gene pool than I do.....But once these adjustments are made, KS patterns are great! Lisa, I love your "T-shirt project", and I'm looking forward to the next installment.
9/13/03 8:49 AM
Lisa, you did a nice job easing in those sleeves--they look perfect. How about running a blind hem stitch on the edge of the neck. I think this technique is called picot edge. It will add more of a decorative look to the wide binding and may even reduce the width. You picked a very lovely color. BTW, I too have to shorten the armhole length. But, I too thought it was because I am only 5' 1" tall.
9/13/03 9:14 AM
Great review Lisa. I just love that color.
9/13/03 12:50 PM
Lisa, I looked at the picture first, and I was going to say that I liked the armscye and sleeve cap in this pattern. But then I read that these came from another pattern. I'm impressed that you can look at a pattern and know that it won't be right, and even more impressed that you successfully copied the armscye and the sleeve cap from another pattern.
9/14/03 3:47 PM
Alana, the way I knew the armsceye wasn't going to fit the way I wanted in the pattern was that I laid the Cowl Top pattern over it and SAW that the armsceye was a whole 2" lower (the drawings don't look low at all). To copy the other pattern, I traced the Kwik Sew pattern at the center fold line, neckline, hem, about 1/2 way down the shoulder seam, and the sideseam up to the armsceye. Then I laid the Cowl Top pattern (which I had made before and knew fit in the shoulders/arms) under the tracing, matched CF/CB (depending on which piece I was tracing) and the shoulder seam and traced the rest of the shoulder, the armsceye and the sideseam on that pattern to where I'd stopped on the sideseam. What I should've done was put a notch where the original underarm seam was on both front and back, so I would've known where the bust ease was to go. Next time! Actually, I think I just traced the LH sleeve and adjusted the length to match the Kwik Sew sleeve...that way I knew it would fit the armsceye. Hope that process makes sense!
9/14/03 9:47 PM
Ditto for the armsyce on KS - but Lisa I'm glad you had success. I also thank you for reviewing all these T's for us!
9/14/03 10:25 PM
Oh wow, thanks for the tips here! I'm going to trace in between sizes and watch that armhole. I'm 5'1. Raising the armholes that much will give me courage to try out a really big tuck in tissue-fitting. I'm sick of "webby" armholes and bust darts that I have to sew right under the armscythe!
10/1/03 7:57 AM
I find the armsceye too low on KS patterns also, and am 5'2". I just bought this pattern, so will fold out extra when I try it. Thanks everyone for the info, I love this website!!!
1/6/04 1:20 PM