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Member since: 3/9/03
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10/5/03 11:09 AM
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Irina, this is really a beautiful top! The shoulder line seems too long for you. Does the sleeve sit right if you take a tuck in the shoulder area? Could be a combination of a too-flat sleeve cap and too-long shoulder seam. However, (there never is one definitive answer, is there?) it *could* be that because the sleeve is too tight it is pulling the cap down and the shoulder along with it. Definitely worth making again, though. :-)
10/5/03 11:54 AM
Gigi -- I did flatten the sleeve cap slightly because the armhole was in between a 12 and 14. Perhaps when I make it again, I will put back the part I took out along with making the sleeve a little bigger. I will also try shaving off a bit from the front shoulder. I'm completely out of 2-way stretch fabrics in my stash though so I've got to do some shopping first. Thank you very much for your suggestions.
10/5/03 12:03 PM
Looking at your picture Irina, I see those tell tale drag lines and excess fabric in the front armhole. Looks like you need to scoop your armhole even more, and, as Gigi says, the shoulder seam is too long. Look at the measurement at 5" down from the high point shoulder, the cross chest point...there's where you need to scoop the most. If your sleeves are really uncomfortable, make this your sleeveless version and work on your longsleeve version on the next one. This is a great top! Each fabric will behave differently though, so I would do a sleeve/armhole fitting beforehand for each version.
10/5/03 12:38 PM
Thanks for the warnings. Just bought this because it looks like the coveted funnel top from Vogue 2698.
10/5/03 12:49 PM
Georgene, do you think that because the sleeve is so tight it could be pulling fabric from the chest? I saw this a lot when I was trying on garments from Loes' trunk show because the sleeves were so snug on me.
10/5/03 12:56 PM
Gigi: too tight sleeves could be why Irina gets that falling off the shoulder feeling when it is on. But there is a lot of excess fabric at the cross chest in the photo, so once Irina gets her sleeve comfortable, then there's still work to do on the armhole I think. BTW when I made my DH's EuroTee, which is quite close fitting for a man's tee, he hated it in cotton lycra stretch jersey, and loved it in the 100% cotton interlock. He said the sleeves felt 'grabby' in the stretch. Same pattern! Different fabric.
10/5/03 1:05 PM
Georgene -- I measured cross chest 5 inches down from the shoulder as you suggested and determined that the pattern measures 15.5 where I measure 12.5. Three inches of ease across the upper chest is definitely too much in a close-fitting knit. Too bad I didn't do this before I cut and sewed! I think my shoulder measures 4 3/4 inches or thereabouts since I'm not sure where the base of my neck is located. Anyway, the pattern measures about 4 7/8 at the shoulder indicating I should whack some more off there. Thank you very much for your suggestions. I really have a lot of trouble fitting tops. I think Gigi has a point about the tight sleeves pulling from the chest as well. I'm going to check to see if I have enough fabric left for a pair of elbow length sleeves. The long ones aren't really uncomfortable; they just don't look good.
10/5/03 1:31 PM
Irina, try measuring from shoulder point to shoulder point straight across, and not from the side neck. Neck lines change all the time: jewel, boat, mock etc. The width of your shoulder across doesn't really, so this is a much better measure point to to consider for fitting your sleeve/armhole area. I hope you have enough to re-make your sleeve. Another design opportunity!
10/5/03 1:36 PM
Georgene -- I just measured 14.5 from shoulder point to shoulder point while the top measures 16.5 across. No wonder it's hanging off my shoulders! I'm thinking I should try to go back to using a size 10 pattern from the upper chest up and just enlarging farther down. Before my body "matured", I used a size 10 pattern with 3/8 shaved off the front shoulder tapering to nothing at the notch.
10/5/03 1:55 PM
Kathy in NM
I can't offer much (any) help in the fitting - Gigi and Georgene seem to have it covered. But, while the shoulder do seem wide, the line drawing on the pattern also shows it slightly (ok, only slightly) off shoulder. The fashion sketchs don't show this, but the line drawing does. Maybe they should be slightly drop shoulder?
10/5/03 2:06 PM
Kathy in NM
PS - I really like this style - hope you get it to work. At least the sleeveless version should be nice!
10/5/03 2:08 PM
Irina, this is so pretty on you that it warrants a bit of fussing-with, I think!
10/5/03 3:16 PM
10/5/03 4:10 PM
This is a GORGEOUS pattern which I'm so glad to have brought to my attention! Definitely worth fussing with, I'd say. Although I can see the fitting issues discussed here, I still think the top looks very nice on you and will only get better with those improvements. As the weather turns rapidly cooler I'm feeling attracted to things with high, cozy necklines!
10/5/03 5:08 PM
Irina, thank you for this timely review. I just bought this pattern myself. I am so glad for the "heads up" on the shoulders and sleeves, two areas I typically have trouble with. In any case, your top looks really nice.
10/5/03 6:50 PM
Great top. I just purchased this pattern (before your review). I liked the doubled front. Instead of rolling the hem as the patternsuggests, I plan to just serge off the bottom and leave it "as is". I like to tuck them in. Two thumbs to Gigi and Georgene. Thanks, Irina for the review.
10/5/03 8:52 PM
Irina, this was timely for me, too, since I bought this pattern on Sat. I like all the views, but hadn't thought about the potential problems with this one. I'm guessing that because the front is overlapped, and each side is attached on its opposite side seam, there's a lot of room for shifting and opening up through the neckline, which would be exacerbated by the already too-generous sizing through the shoulders and bust area. Good luck working this out, and thanks to all for fitting tips!
10/6/03 10:18 AM
Thanks to all of you for the excellent fitting tips and encouragement to fix the top. Last night I removed the tight sleeves and cut new 3/4 length, wider sleeves. Hope to update the review in a few days with a better fitting top.
10/6/03 11:49 AM
I made this top on the weekend too and if I had gotten around to reviewing it :) I was going to say (as Kathy in NM pointed out), the actual top is a bit off the shoulder. Also, I used a thin knit which is great for a smooth line and tucking in, but the underside of the front shows through in the right upper chest of mine, making it look a little bumpy.
10/7/03 3:23 PM
Irina, et al; I just finished this top as well as the funnel neck version. I'm not a fit expert mind you but I had those same funny wrinkles in the bust line, under the arms even with my full bust adjustment. I believe the armhole need to be raised maybe a half inch. The tight sleeves want to sit right in my axilla area and is pulling the top up causing these wrinkles. Least, that's my theory. Will have to make another to check. Try cutting off the hem allowance on the underlayer of a wrap top like this to avoid all the bulk when hemming. ;-)
10/9/03 6:54 AM
Thank you for the review Irina, I just purchased this pattern and will keep your comments in mind when I make mine. I love the look of your top.
10/11/03 12:01 PM
Irina, I dont know how I missed reading your review earlier but its such a smashing top! I am adding this to my wish list :) Thanks for the review and the update.
10/11/03 3:30 PM
Wow, it looks a whole lot better Irina! I'm glad you were able to save this piece and the next one will be even better.
10/12/03 2:19 AM
You were so patient in working through all this. Your analytical approach coupled with expert assistance, made for a very, very nice result.
10/12/03 4:33 PM
I made the funnel-neck version of this top this weekend (I also just got a digital camera but haven't worked out all the technology yet--when I have I'll post a review and picture). I love the fit of mine. I was using a scrunched up stretch lace, on the serger, so I serged off a large seam allowance (more than 5/8--probably closer to 1 inch) when sewing the side/sleeve seams, so my top ended up quite fitted. The sleeves are, indeed, quite fitted, even more so since I narrowed them when sewing. I have pretty thin arms, though, and quite a small bust, so overall, this flat shaped top worked great for me.
10/13/03 8:31 AM
I made the same top, and instead of fussing with fit, I overlayed the neckline onto a top that already fits well. I used a drapey knit and the collar looks dreadfull. I took of the entire collar, and just finished the edge, and now it is passable. I agree, the collar is a bit too wide. I think you could cut it down at least an inch. Thanks for your review.
11/19/03 9:16 PM
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