Loes Hinse Designs: 5204 (Italian Blouse)  - Type:Tops  | | Viewed 751 times
| 14 more reviews | Review rated Helpful by 1 people Very Helpful by 16 people | | Reviewed by: | FreyaStark | 
 | About FreyaStark | | AUSTRALIA | | Member since: 6/12/08 | | Reviews written: 141 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 40 people | | patterns reviewed: 102 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 4/29/09 9:12 AM | | Last Updated: | 3/21/13 9:42 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | 
Loes Hinse Designs Pattern InfoMore Info provided by FreyaStark | | Pattern Rating: | Recommend, with Modifications | | See other patterns in this category: Tops | Available for sale on PR: $16.00 (See envelope)  | | | | Fabric: | Lawn [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern description: "This classic blouse has a one-piece collar and cuff detail. View A: long sleeve with cuff. View B: short sleeve with fold-back cuff. Bust has 4" ease."
In the photographs, this pattern looks more loose-fitting than it is in reality. Four inches of ease isn't much. When I made this pattern, it was too tight (I can't have measured carefully enough, probably relying too much on what should have been the right size). Having measured it and myself a couple of times since then, I made a size larger. It's now a roomy fit, perhaps a bit too big, although I certainly didn't want a fitted look. Maybe I should have done an FBA instead.
Pattern sizing: XXS~XXL
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Not especially. Making it in cotton rather than a more drapey fabric gives it a boxy look, especially because of the loose fit and short length.
Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions and the diagrams are amateurish but clear enough if you read them carefully and generally know what you're doing. Although I was wary of the instructions because other reviewers have criticized them, I had no great difficulty with them.
No instruction is given to interface the collar and front facings, but I did anyway, with very light interfacing, because it adds body to a collar and useful extra strength where buttons are used.
No instruction was given to turn under the bottom edge of one collar piece before attaching it. Instead you are asked to turn it under with your fingers after attaching the other side of the collar to the garment. This might sound odd but it works. You are also advised to make the seam allowance narrower than usual while doing so to cover the stitching (where the collar is attached) - and that's a very good idea!
The instruction to stitch down the front facings is given unobtrusively, without the term "top stitching" being used, so this step would be easy to overlook. I didn't stitch them down because of adding a pocket and because I thought the facings might not sit flat no matter how careful I was. Next time, maybe.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the general loose, relaxed look and the long, floppy collar. I'm less happy about the narrow, 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance (based on the assumption that you will use a serger) but left it. Although I prefer some margin for error, I thought I could cope since I knew about it in advance, and using cotton rather than a fabric that frays a lot and having short sleeves means there is no need for french seams. I did, however, wish the side seam allowances were wider when I tried to add hem-line slits at the sides only to realise that the allowance was too narrow to turn under and zigzag. Consequently I had to leave out the slits and stitch the side seams all the way down to the hem, which probably won't affect the fit much as the shirt is loose on me.
Fabric used: A brown floral Liberty of London lawn with some cute corozo buttons from Sawyer Brook. Here's a close-up.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made several minor alterations:
1. lengthened the body by 1cm/0.5in so that I'd have more hem allowance than the 1cm given in the pattern;
2. tapered the sleeve by adding a vertical fold from just below the shoulder line down to the hem, to make it less baggy;
3. cut the collar points sharp instead of rounded;
4. omitted the fold-back cuffs;
5. added a simple pocket to the left side;
6. placed the first button a little higher and the buttons closer together than stipulated;
7. added a fifth button since mine are small (the bottom one might be left open when I'm active).
Next time I would also make the sleeves slightly shorter and taper them even more as they are still a bit wide. I'd also add slits about 5 to 7.5cm (2 to 3in) deep at the sides of a short-sleeved version.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes to both, although beginners should be wary because the instructions and diagrams are not the greatest.
Conclusion: It's now almost winter here so I won't be able to wear the shirt for months, unless I can take a short break somewhere hot. So I might feel differently about it when I have worn it more. Nevertheless I am inclined to like this pattern and certainly want to make it again with both short and long sleeves.
*****
THIRD VERSION, MARCH 2013
I have now made this blouse a third time, also with short sleeves (click here). My fabric is a cotton-linen-viscose blend that drapes well but is heavy, possibly too heavy for a blouse, and is difficult to iron. My piece was a remnant from Tessuti. At the time of writing (March 2013) the same fabric is in stock at Darn Cheap Fabrics.
This time I made a larger size than my two previous versions (unfortunately) but used a wider seam allowance so the result is a hybrid size. I made the amendments listed above, and wish I had also added 1-2cm to the length.
I omitted interfacing from the front and the collar as my fabric has plenty of body.
This time I stitched down the front facings as suggested in the instructions. However, the result did not look good. The stitching line seemed tight and looked ugly. I undid the stitching and left the facings free, which looks better but the front sags somewhat, suggesting that the facings need to be hitched up somehow on the inside, perhaps with a slip stitch or two.
Although this version of the blouse does not look as good as I hoped, it is wearable, and I certainly need a white shirt. However, I remain convinced that McCalls 5052 is my favourite pattern for a simple campshirt and would be more likely to make it again than this pattern.
*****
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11 Comments
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Ah, this Liberty of London is a gorgeous print. One day I will buy some L of L, but first my sewing skills must justify the purchase! Also thanks for showing us alteration #2 in which you fold out sleeve fullness. I think this is what people refer to when they say they removed a "wedge" from a pattern. I can see clearly what you did, and reading the review for this alone was well worth it. Thanks!
4/29/09 9:36 AM
Having nailed the fit, I think I've made this one five times now, always in a thin, drapy fabric. It is my TNT warm weather blouse. Your fabric looks pretty, and it sounds as though you got a nice result overall. And with the photo, I can see that it's a becoming and comfortable shirt. I think you got a really good result with the collar!
4/29/09 11:26 AM
I agree, it sounds very interesting. I would love to see a picture of you wearing the shirt.
4/29/09 1:46 PM
I'm a LHinse fan. I must try this one. Thanks for the review.
4/29/09 3:49 PM
Yeah! nice picture. That really is a nice shirt, thank you for sharing it with us.
4/30/09 11:20 PM
The fabric is great in this blouse, very nice. I agree that I like the little slits too - now you can compensate and add them in your next rendition.
5/3/09 10:25 PM
Thanks for your wonderful review, I feel charged now to conquer this one. Lovely Blouse!
6/9/09 10:23 PM
Looks like a comfy white shirt and that's good for summer. When I get a sag such as yours I undo the stitching at the bottom of the shirt (across the facing and shirt front )- smooth everything out and generally find that the facing needs to be pushed up and hand sewn higher than seems right - clear as mud huh? If you have a better solution please share
3/21/13 10:51 PM
Very nice white blouse for summer--I need to sew a couple of these! (And this is almost 4 years after you first reviewed the pattern. I guess it's a keeper.)
3/21/13 11:06 PM
I like this pattern, particularly the way the collar sits.
3/22/13 2:30 AM
After seeing your versions, I am inspired to give this pattern (in my stash for quite a bit of time) a try! Thank you for your very helpful review.
3/22/13 5:37 PM