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Pattern Reviews> Sewing Workshop> Tribeca Shirt (Tribeca Shirt)

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Reviewed by:barbcl
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About barbcl
Member since: 5/15/05
Reviews: 8 (patterns: 7)
Skill level:Advanced
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Posted on:10/3/09 12:48 PM
Last Updated:10/3/09 6:00 PM
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 6 people   
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barbcl said... (10/15/09 8:32 PM) Reply
Hi Martha, I made a muslin of the facings cutting them 6" wide, which included the 5/8" seam allowance. I should have cut the muslins 6 1/2" wide. The following is the way I did it, but you may have a better way! The facing is stitched to the back and front neck edges and to the front edges (not extending into the armholes). Note: The free unseamed inside edges of the facings were serged to finish the edges after the completed fashion fabric facing was fitted and stitched together correctly using an adjusted test muslin. To start, I basted in the front darts at the shoulder line on the fashion fabric and pressed. I did not put the darts in the front shoulder part of the facing. Next, I positioned uncut test fabric for the facing muslins under the cut, but not seamed together, jacket front and back pieces. The muslin fabric extended completely over all the unstitched seam allowances. I pinned the uncut muslin fabric to the edges of the cut jacket pieces inside their seam lines at the necks and fronts and traced on the muslin fabric around the pieces at their edges. I drew the outside edges of the facings 6" away from the neck and front edges on the muslin fabric, following the lines of the jacket neck and front facings. I also drew the curve for the front facing that is necessary to get the front facing inside serged edge around the top corner of the front and get close to making it lie smoothly and be the right depth everywhere. (As with some blouse patterns that have sewn in neck and front facings). I cut the back muslin facing on the fold. I cut two front facing muslins. Next, I basted the shoulder seams for the facings and for the jacket. I then basted the facing to the jacket to test the fit of the facing, matching the neck edges. I matched the shoulder seams. After the jacket was faced, I trimmed and serged the inside edges of the facings making sure everything was flat and smoot, but able to fit around my dress form. I graduated the cut of the muslin to make the facing wide enough to look like a collar where the jacket falls back at the neck. When I basted the front facing to the front of the jacket, a sort of pleat formed of excess fabric on the facing. I basted the pleat in from the inside unseamed edge of the facing toward the seamed front edge to the top corner of the jacket on a straight diagonal line. I adjusted until I got a smooth flat finish with no pleat and no pulling. I wanted the depth of the facing to be as large as possible so only it would show when it fell back or was folded back at the top front. I cut the fashion fabric facings from the muslins after the muslins fit right and laid flat with enough fold-back. To get the final measurements (and possibly a clue), I have measured the diagonal line formed from the top corner of the finished jacket to the inside serged edge of the facing at a point 3" down from the front top corner. That diagonal line on my jacket is 5 1/4" long (finished, and not including the seam allowance). Therefore, at that spot the facing fabric had to be 6 1/4 " inches wide (including seam allowances) for my facing to lie flat and still provide enough facing at the top of the front. However, the depth of the front facing from that point on the inside edge to the shoulder seam line is only 3 1/4" finished and without the seam allowance. I would cut all the muslin facings 6 1/2" wide and go from there, adjusting and tweaking. I wish I could tell you why the pleat formed, but I just don't know why! :( I'm sure there's a way to fit the facing more methodically, but but I'm sure I don't know it =:) ! Therefore, I had to do trial and error with muslins, but I love the finished jacket and it was worth the effort!
marthamyers said... (10/14/09 9:48 AM) Reply
Thanks for the review! I just received this pattern and I'm now working on a light weight shirt cotton fabric. How far did you extend the front facing? To the arm hole? Also did you create a facing for the back to match, or did your facing stop before the the shoulder seam. With my cotton, I think it'll be important to add this facing or it will just flop around. Thanks!
barbcl said... (10/4/09 11:52 AM) Reply
Thanks for the nice comments, which are always encouraging!
marec said... (10/4/09 10:55 AM) Reply
Terrific shirt jac-perfect for a mild climate.
renren said... (10/4/09 7:53 AM) Reply
This looks really nice. I keep hearing about this Tribeca shirt/jacket pattern. Perhaps I should buy it since it is easy to make. Very nice outcome.
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