Vogue Patterns: 1082 (MISSES' SKIRT) - Type:Skirts  | | Viewed 297 times
| 3 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 12 people | | Reviewed by: | Tailypo | 
 | About Tailypo | | CA USA | | Member since: 8/6/03 | | Reviews written: 61 | | Favored by: 60 people | | patterns reviewed: 46 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 11/2/09 11:35 PM | | Last Updated: | 11/3/09 12:31 PM | | Pattern Size: | Plus-Sized Regular | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | 
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info | | Pattern Rating: | Highly Recommend | | See other patterns in this category: Skirts | Available for sale on PR: $25 (See envelope)  | | | | Fabric: | Gabardine [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
Straight or flared, mid-calf length skirt has shaped yoke with contour waist, side panel variations and invisible zipper. Optional piping trim. A: lined skirt and back vent. B: unlined and faced yoke. I made the straight skirt.
Pattern Sizing:
Sandra Betzina's own A-J sizing. I made an F, morphing to a G through the hips.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
More or less, yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, very much so. I find Sandra Betzina's instructions to be very easy to follow and an excellent source of tips. It was especially helpful in inserting the invisible zipper and doing the lining -- I am very happy with my results.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the princess seaming, which is the only possible way for me to even attempt something resembling a straight, pegged skirt.
As you have probably noticed, a-line skirts are just over, dead, and buried this season and although I am no slave to fashion I try not to wear silhouettes that are completely passe. Unfortunately the current fashion for pegged pencil skirts is incredibly difficult for me to pull off as I am very pear shaped with thick legs. The best solution for me is princess seaming, to allow fitting and shaping opportunities. This pattern works really nicely. It gives the overall impression of a pencil skirt, but having adjusted the center back panel to fit my figure, it cheats a bit and has extra room, which I really need.
Fabric Used:
This is actually kind of a wearable muslin. That is to say -- I intend to make this skirt in a beautiful brown wool that I got from Loes Hinse, with piping and a fancy button from britex and a gorgeous silk lining, but I didn't dare cut that fabric until I had perfected this skirt, and I didn't feel like it was 'perfected' until I had made it in something other than muslin. So I got out this mystery poly-wool blend gabardine that I bought a lot of yards of when I first started sewing, and made several wadders out of over the years. It is an unforgiving fabric, really doesn't ease well and show every mistake, plus it is too thin, but I love the color. Still I am going to wear it because seriously, I have worse looking garments that I bought off the rack, and I wear them. The faint pink chalk marks on the right side of the garment will no doubt be mistaken for a design choice.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I had to fit the bejaysus out of this thing -- not because of drafting problems, you understand. First I tissue fit the pattern and determined that I needed a size F in the waist, and would do the F size along the outside (hip) seams and the center front seaming, but would use the G pieces for the back yoke and center panel. Then I sewed it up in muslin and determined that a good size dart was hiding in the drafting of the princess seams of the front yoke, which caused some serious bagging in the front for me. This makes sense because SB tends to design for more of an apple shape and I am quite the pear. The instructions did not cover fitting this area (the double yoke front) and it was tricky, pinching out the darts in the muslin, then transferring them to the pattern pieces and using a combination of tucks and rotating darts to get the yokes to fit better. Anyway, then I made another muslin, and tweaked the side seams some more, and un-pegged the pegging I had done, because SB already pegged the pattern.
Then I had to redraw the pattern pieces and I think I wound up losing some of the original shaping -- my yokes seem narrower than the pattern photo.
Also, you will notice that the left hip hangs nicely and the right hip doesn't -- that is because when I did the final fitting I pinned out some excess, then used a hip curve to draw a new chalk line on the left side, but figured the right side would be fine. See the difference? Lesson learned, no cheating or shortcuts next time.
If you are shaped like me and have larger thighs and backside than hips, this pattern does allow you to tweak lots of seams to accommodate your shape. I tend to have problems with getting a good fit through the hip, and the double yoke gave me a lot of opportunities to fit this area separately from the skirt panels,where I tackled my full thighs and backside.
One thing I notice about my end result -- SB recommends using a fusible tape along the princess seams to prevent the pieces from distorting. This is good advice and my pieces did not distort, but in the end you can totally see that tape between my skirt and lining. Like, you can really, really see white lines along the princess seams. It bums me out. Of course I should not buy cheap, too-thin gabardine.
awkward back view.
I love the button and tab at the top of the invisible zipper. Cute and fancy and easy!
The drafting on this pattern is excellent and everything sews together beautifully.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I intend to make it again, but to be honest after tissue fitting, two muslins, a test garment, and tweaking the fit of the test garment, I am sick to high heaven of this skirt. I think I am going to put it aside before I make my final fancy version.
Conclusion:
this will definitely be a TNT straight skirt pattern for me, highly recommended, especially to those who have a hard time achieving a good fit in a straight skirt.
11/3 ETA corrected photo thumbnail and to add pic of me in the skirt:
click here
11/3 ETA another photo correction (why being so fussy, flickr?) and additional commentary, and corrected some switched lefts and rights. I think it makes sense now. I promise to stop updating this review.
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 Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
<< Previous Review Next Review >> | Reader Comments | | Allie in Hong Kong | 11/3/09 | Wow you achieved an incredible fit on this skirt, it's so flattering! | | * * * | | Jane S | 11/3/09 | I love this skirt on you. I have those same fit issues but also want to be a bit more current in my wardrobe each season. thanks for such a helpful review. I'm inspired to follow your lead on this one. | | * * * | | Mufffet | 11/3/09 | Thanks for the review. Your skirt looks really nice on you. I have not given up my fuller skirts and won't but this skirt would be an inspiration were I to offend the world by going to the pencil skirt! | | * * * | | Raye Ann | 11/3/09 | i admire your perseverance, and the skirt is very pretty! i love the shaping and seam lines. i bet in a heavier fabric, this would be a knock out for you! | | * * * | | CarolynGM | 11/3/09 | The fit is looking great. I think the pegged style looks very nice on you. | | * * * | | Mermie | 11/3/09 | Your skirt looks great on you, great fit!
| | * * * | | gatorgirl4325 | 11/3/09 | I love this skirt and your fancy version is going to be fabulous! Thanks for a through review. | | * * * | | Kay Y | 11/3/09 | Nice work - the fit is looking good. Will we see the "real" one?? | | * * * | | Debbie Cook | 11/3/09 | Great fit! This is a wonderful style for you, esp. now that you've fitted it so nicely. | | * * * | | Diane E | 11/3/09 | Beautiful fit! Love the silhouette. I could see why you'd want several of these in your wardrobe. Me too! | | * * * | | ElizabethDee | 11/4/09 | Your skirt fits you beautifully -- your hard work really paid off! You are inspiring me as I struggle with a skirt sloper. I hope we get to see your skirt in the fancy fabric too. | | * * * | | ElizabethDee | 11/4/09 | oops, a double post! sorry. | | * * * | | nicegirl | 11/4/09 | I love it! The skirt came out fabulous in the test fabric and I'm sure you'll love it even more in your fabulous fabric! | | * * * | | Tailypo | 11/4/09 | Thanks everyone for your kind feedback! And I must say that when Debbie Cook says I have fitted something nicely, I feel as if I have really accomplished something. Thanks again. | | * * * | | d1g1t1ze | 11/10/09 | I just love your reviews. Funny AND extremely helpful! | | * * * |
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