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|Reviewed by:||arianamaniacs|| |
|Posted on:||11/8/09 5:02 PM |
|Last Updated:||6/6/14 1:35 PM|
|Pattern Photo: |
Simplicity Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
|Review Rating:|| Very Helpful by 9 people |
|Fabric:||Shirting - Cotton [See other projects in this fabric]|
|Pattern Description: |
Men's dress shirt with yoke. Short or long sleeves.
Update: I've sewn this several times, but this is the first time with the short sleeves.
3rd version, blue stripes
2nd version, white with contrast inside collar and cuffs
First shirt, Blue stripes
I sewed size 42.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. Since this was my first men's shirt, I followed them exactly.
They are excellent.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
- Three cheers for NO HAND SEWING
- I loved the self-faced yoke. Their directions show you how to face the yoke professionally.
- The directions for the sleeve placket were very clear. I compared with other shirt patterns. these were the best and almost the same as in my book "Shirtmaking" by David Coffin
These dislikes aren't actually a fault in the pattern, just style parts that didn't appeal to me.
- The front buttonhole placket is too wide for current styles. The front that overlaps on top shouldn't have top-stitching. RTW shirts only fold the top overlap to the inside holds it together by the buttonholes.
- Collar is on the border to being too wide.
- The width of the shirt sleeve is exactly as wide as the cuff. Normally, there should be one or two small pleats to fold in the little extra fabric and give the sleeve some ease.
- The short sleeved version did not work well. The sleeve is curved, which means it's difficult to fold in the hem allowance and get a nice flat seam. It also doesn't work if your fabric has any pattern on it, because it makes it look like you didn't hem evenly
Muslin: lining from more Ikea curtains. After my last two projects, I'm almost out of curtains ;)
Real shirt: Pin-striped shirting from Mills Ends in Portland
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Changes I made:
- In the muslin, I added a pleat to the middle back. After I tried it on my BF, I wish I hadn't added it. He doesn't need any extra room, because he is rather tall and skinny. This is an easy change though, and might be recommended for anyone with a little more girth. I didn't do this in the real shirt.
- After seeing how the muslin turned out, I sewed the front placket like a RTW shirt. Do it this way instead of following instruction #2. Afterwards, the front plackets are held together by the buttonholes and buttons.
- When working with stripes, try to cut out the yoke, the fronts and cuffs so that the seam will fall in between the stripes. This is more forgiving with wobbly sewing.
- Fixed style elements I didn't like in my muslin: add width to lower sleeve and pleat it into cuff, lessen width of collar, made front placket like RTW
- On my muslin, my top-stitching was rushed on the collar band and the sleeve placket. The stitching on the collar band is the most visible on the shirt because its right up by the face. On the real shirt, I took my time and did it very neatly. See the difference here
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'm glad I sewed a muslin first instead of cutting into my good shirting fabric. The muslin is technically still wearable, but I would probably dye it black first to hide my haphazard top-stitching.
I'm pleased as pie with the shirt and so is my BF. He's extremely picky about his shirts and he said it looked like a professional one.
On the first version, all the pin-stripes matched up perfectly - across the front, under the shirt sleeves and the sleeve plackets. My flat-felled seams never looked so good. I wish I sewed that nicely all the time! ;)
On the 2nd version, the collar wasn't centered very perfectly and the collar was still a bit wide. I liked the contrast fabric though on the collar.
On the 3rd version, the collar was perfect. I also experimented with the shape of the cuffs, so that it had bevelled edges at the corner.
Great pattern, with great directions!
Took me about 6 hours to sew. I'm so slow, bah.
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