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|Reviewed by:||becca a|| |
|Posted on:||1/9/10 0:34 AM |
|Last Updated:||3/30/15 7:18 PM|
|Pattern Size:||Regular Petite |
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
|Review Rating:|| Very Helpful by 7 people |
|See other patterns in this category: Dresses |
|Tip: Marking/transferring pattern symbols to fabric with thread|
|Fabric:||Wool Jersey [See other projects in this fabric]|
I still love this pattern five years after my initial review and have made a summer version of the dress--sleeveless and in a light weight rayon/spandex knit from Elliott Bermann with a bold floral and animal print.
Front summer version
back, summer version
I used the Jalie method to bind the armholes: cut a strip of self fabric a little shorter than the length of the armhole, sew the strip to the right side of the fabric, fold the strip toward the seam allowance, fold again to the inside (this encloses the raw edges) and stitch down. I should have done this for the neckline as the facing has a tendency to flip up.
oops, the neck facing flipped up
Pattern Description: From Vogue: "Fitted, tapeered dresses A, B, C, mid-knee length, have pleated front neckline and darted back with zipper. A: sleeveless, finished with purchased bias tape. B: below elbow length sleeve. C: full length sleeve." This dress is a pretty good copy of the dress Mrs. O wore to visit the White House for the first time after the election. I made the long sleeved version.
Pattern Sizing:AA 6-8-10-12 I made an 8-10-12
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes, especially since I made it in grey.
Were the instructions easy to follow?The instructions are clear with good illustrations and explanations. The only part that requires particular care is basting the pleats into place. I used this tip easy thread tracing which simplified things since I couldn't tell the right side from the wrong side of my fabric.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I love the pleated neckline. I like that the front piece is cut in one layer (not on the fold) since it is not symmetrical. The pattern is simple and goes together well. I love the long back darts that start below the shoulder blades and go to the hem.
Fabric Used:Charcoal grey merino wool knit. It claims to be 100% wool but is much springier than the other charcoal grey merino wool knit I got from Fabricmartfabrics.com at the same time, so I wonder if it has some lycra in it. It is lovely and soft and drapy but possibly too heavy to be ideal for this pattern since there is a lot of fabric at the neckline with the pleats and facing. I think this fabric isn't really a jersey since the right and wrong side of the fabric are indistinguishable and it doesn't try to curl up, but I clicked jersey since it is a wool knit and this seemed the closest choice.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:In tracing the pattern I checked the measurements printed on the pattern tissue and decided to trace size 8 in the shoulders through the bust, widening out to 10 at the waist, and 12 at the hip. Since I wanted a little more ease at the hips I added a scant 1/4" to each side of the back piece at the hips. I took 1/8" off the back shoulder outer edge tapering to nothing at the neck edge after comparing the pattern to my fitting shell. I also reduced the pattern length at the petite lines above and below the waist.
The pattern layout calls for cutting out the fabric on the cross grain. However, my fabric has a lot of stretch on the cross grain and not much lengthwise, so I cut my pattern out according to normal lengthwise layout instead.
Because my wool is pretty stretchy, I basted the dress together to see if I could get away with not using a zipper. Since it was no problem to put it on, I skipped the zipper. I put clear elastic into the shoulder seams to avoid stretching. I also much prefer putting in the sleeves before sewing up the sleeves and sides, so didn't follow the instructions on this either.
(I apologize for my tilted pictures; my poor photographer is recovering from a dislocated shoulder and had trouble using his left hand to take the picture and keep the camera straight.)
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I love this dress and may sew a summer version in a lighter knit. I highly recommend this pattern. I had a hard time deciding if I should buy this pattern or the similar Butterick 5382 I chose this one for the uninterrupted front piece. The several positive reviews on PR swayed me toward Vogue, although I think the separate bodice piece of the Butterick might actually be closer to the cut of Mrs. O's dress. Butterick allows stretch wovens as well as knits, whereas Vogue allows only knits.
Conclusion: This is a great dress, and I love the fabric. I think I might need knee high boots to go with it.
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