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I've been looking for something like this to sew for my husband. Thanks for the review. The shirt looks great.
3/22/10 11:58 PM
Nice shirt. Great sewing!
3/23/10 7:09 AM
Thanks for the good review. Your shirt really turned out nicely. As a man who makes many shirts, may I offer a few comments about shirts without back yokes? The most expensive RTW shirt I own is an Italian handkerchief linen shirt that does not have a back yoke. I did not notice this feature when I purchased it. I think it makes the shirt look cheap. After hanging this shirt the ends of the hangar always end up creating points on it. A back yoke gives a shirt more stability and wear. Another advantage is that it allows for additional ease in the shirt back, since backs usually have pleats or gathers. I have used a yokeless design for a shirt I made for a woman from a print with a really large repeat. It would have taken a lot of additional fabric to match that pattern if I had used a yoke. But, except in rare instances, I prefer a back yoke. Just my two cents.
3/23/10 9:17 AM
Thanks for this review..the shirt looks good. As a professional shirt-maker and Tailor for well over 20 years, I agree with what Voet said, above. Another reason that a "back yoke" is important is that it is also is part of "the front" :) It extends over the natural shoulder-line and that extension becomes part of the shirt front. This part that extends to the front is important for the front of the shirt to hang straight, to keep the button extensions (plackets) from "twisting", and to support the pocket so that it doesn't look "droopy". Having a back yoke is also important for adding enough ease to lay smoothly over the shoulder blades *and* so that the shirt does not get "hung-up" at the waist or hips. The ease needed to prevent these stress lines is virtually invisible when the back is drafted with a curved upper edge, that is then carefully eased into the straight lower edge of the back yoke. This way, you can still have a smooth back with no pleats or gathers, because all the ease in incorporated into the curved edge of the upper back. When a menswear shirt is drafted without a back yoke, there is no way to add the necessary ease, aside from making the back wider at the side seams. When ease is added that way, you often see bunching at the armscye and the upper sleeve. But despite the simple draft of this pattern, yours turned out well...good job !
3/23/10 11:44 AM
Thanks so much for the comments, and for the tips to voet and Pam- I didn't think much about the yoke issue, and now I can see it's even more important than I realized. I'll keep looking for a better pattern!
3/24/10 11:17 PM
Try McCall's 2447. It seems to have all the important men's shirt design elements.
3/29/10 8:49 AM
Agree with Voet and Pam-Off the Cuff. Have made shirts with and without yokes. The yoked versions have the ease across the back for a bit of give andthe yoke usually adds stability to the shoulder and collar area. Have made shirts with large repeats and do not use yokes. Tried it once and it wasted a ton of fabric. Like the review, will try this one next.
6/29/10 9:55 PM