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Pattern Reviews> Vogue Patterns> 7881 (Claire Shaeffer Pants)

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Reviewed by:drsue

About drsuestarstarstarstar
Member since: 11/11/03
Reviews: 169 (patterns: 152)
Skill level:Beginner
Favored by: 183 people
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Posted on:4/17/04 7:50 PM
Last Updated:11/7/12 3:49 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 3 people    Very Helpful by 15 people   
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Available for sale on PR: $20.00 Pattern Details
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Available for sale on PR: $20.00 Pattern Details
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32 Comments      Login to Add a Comment    
Marlene J said... (11/7/12 4:11 PM) Reply
Dr. Sue, I don't know why I can't access your picture, but when I click on "new pair" I get a message that says "you have reached this page in error." I noticed that I can't access any of the pictures of your former reviews either. Anyway, I would love to see your pants if you can somehow make your picture accessible. Thanks.
Nancy K said... (12/7/06 8:05 AM) Reply
The pants are really almost there as far as fit. If I may add my two cents. The skiriting in front is something that haunted me and I could not find any thing that dealt with this. Finally, I looked in NancyZieman's Fitting Finesse and in the back is a diagram of common wrinkles and the solutions. The I pinned out and what amounted to a fisheye dart then I I removed double the amount directly opposite on the cf seam and the inner leg in the front. On a muslin you can draw in a fisheye dart and meaure and transfer to the nearest seams by means of lines running perpendicular to the grain line. The back looks like you need more room in the back crotch. If you have Joyce Murphy's articles in Threads take a look. Pin out pleats going down the cb into the back crotch curve until it hangs properly. The amount you take out of the cb needs to be added back to the hip and blending into the leg at a leval of where you ended the pinning at cb.
PhyllisC said... (8/12/06 8:36 AM) Reply
Susan you are sooo close to perfection I think you should keep working at it - I'd say you're 90% of the way there. I just read Els' comment - she's the master of pants fit (and fit generally), and her suggestions make a lot of sense to me. I have beefy thighs too and grapple with this problem all the time.
Karla Kizer said... (8/12/06 8:35 AM) Reply
Looking at the back view makes me wonder if the legs need to be at a slightly different angle to the body, with just a bit more side length. I've had some pretty good luck cutting through the pattern sideseam at or just below crotch level, and slashing across to (not through) the inseam. I spread the pattern just a bit (about 1/4" at the sideseam), and fill the wound with tissue paper. That gives a little more sideseam length to go over the outer thigh, but changes nothing else on the pattern; even the grain line doesn't need to be changed. Your pants are beautifully tailored, and I bet you wouldn't be nearly so picky about RTW. Wear them and enjoy them; they look lovely.
patsijean said... (8/12/06 0:13 AM) Reply
Sue, the pants look great and you do not look as if you have as big a "full thigh" problem as you think you have.
DebbyD said... (3/7/05 9:31 PM) Reply
Sue, wow! Great pants! I think I am the little bit taller and bigger version of you. I think these pant look great and once I am done making some skirts, I think I will give them a try.
nheh said... (11/15/04 9:24 AM) Reply
They look pretty good to me:-) I agree with the comment that you'd buy them in all colors if they were RTW. But on the side seam stiffening issue, Sanda Betzina suggests using Petersham ribbon on the side seams from waist to knee for exactly this reason. She says many women do not have a smooth hip curve, but rather some hills and valleys :-b Anyway, she suggests sewing the ribbon to the seam allowances on both sides, after the garment is constructed. Shrink the ribbon first.
Dale C said... (11/14/04 9:15 PM) Reply
No fancy type of seam finish necessary, just something with some stiffness. I noticed that with jeans and a solid flatfelled seam, it smoothed out the bulge a bit. So I tried using mock felled seams. Also for a pants with no topstitching on the sides, I'd try using a strip of interfacing along the side for some body.
els said... (11/14/04 8:36 PM) Reply
Sue your pants looks good but you can get a better fit for your full thighs by adding some to your pattern. I am better in explaining this in pictures than in English but the text for the pictures is : Alterations pants pattern for heavy thighs front side only. It is important for people with heavy thighs to measure first your thighs at 2 inches below the crotch, next measure the pants pattern front and back at the same height 2 inches below the crotch the total width of your pattern must be your thighs width + 2-3 inches. For example, if your pattern width is 1 inch short in width you can add that amount at the front pattern. Draw a line 1 inch below the crotch line from side seam to inner leg seam. Measure this new line till knee height and divide this in 2. Cut the front crease line till the knee and the 3 new horizontal lines. Draw a new crease line from the knee up to the waist, add at both sides of the crease line inch, see the pictures, the side seams inner and outer leg are now spread for about 1/8 -1/4 inch. You should ease in those inches ( 1/8 till inch) In woollen fabric this is easy. You can see the picture at Hope it can be of any help.
CarolynGM said... (11/14/04 11:09 AM) Reply
drsue -- you should not give up on these. You are very close on the fit. I agree with those who said you might need a little more room in the hip. A slight extension of the crotch points might help as well. I had very similar issues with the back leg on my first pair of these, and one thing that helped was downsizing the legs starting a little below the fullest part of the thighs. I think that a little more tweaking will pay off with a perfect fit. I look forward to your next update!
drsue said... (11/14/04 10:35 AM) Reply
Thank you all so much for your helpful advice. One thing I just realized is that my weight is up slightly (dang that halloween candy!) and extra pounds on me goes straight to my legs. I suspect getting back to my usual weight will help the leg issue. I think Elona's suggestions are right on the money. I will do this in the future. Dale- - interesting idea on the seam finishes. Are you suggesting a Hong Kong type of seam edge finish? I didn'tn finish these seams at all as I lined the pants. Patti B - - yes, they are better than RTW and I will definetly wear them, but I'm a perfectionist, I also don't want you guys to think that I didn't notice the fitting flaws. D1Diva - - This wonderful fabric is one of the oldest of my stash fabrics. I think I purchased it from Vogue fabrics at least 7 years ago. I'm on a mission to use up my old fabric.
D1Diva said... (11/14/04 1:02 AM) Reply
I agree that they look just slightly too tight in the hips. I have this problem with RTW a lot and I am pretty much built like you. I also don't care for the straight side seams, but that's just me. I do think if you fit them slightly fuller in the hip they would be much more flattering (IMHO). The fabric is looks wonderful. Where did you buy it?
Elona said... (11/13/04 8:57 PM) Reply
Dr. Sue, you're nice and trim, and there's no reason to abandon pants. It's just a matter of finding the best pattern and best style for you. I trust you have tried Burda? As you mention, there is some problem with fullness of the front thigh. This shows itself in the sideward deviation of the front crease in that area. If you make these pants again, I think a little bit more length at the front crotch hook would help. The slight crotch length increase right there might also enhance the "skirting" effect in front, letting the pants drop straighter from the waistband and perhaps making the tiny tummy poof less noticeable. The back view is really very good. I think the drag lines you see may be related to the snug fit over the hips, in that if you were to (gag) undo the waistband, release the side seams at the hips, and then smoooooth the side seams downward, much of that diagonal pull would disappear.
Patti B said... (11/13/04 5:58 PM) Reply
Dr Sue, very nice. I think that if you tried on a pair of slacks in a shop that fit this well, you would buy them in all colors! But I am hoping you'll find a magic way to diminish the upper thigh appearance -- I'll be first in line to try it.
Dale C said... (11/13/04 2:25 PM) Reply
I have the same full thigh problem too. One way I deal with this is to make sure the side seam is finished with a fairly stiff seam finishing. It seems to help the fabric glide over the bulge and hold it's shape. Also, to deal with the sag lines behind the thighs, you can pinch out the excess right under the butt and remove this amount from the pattern. Hopefully next time, it'll hang nicer. I like the ones you made though, they look pretty good to me.
drsue said... (5/8/04 10:07 AM) Reply
Donna: Gosh, the unique instructions are sprinkled throughout. The instructions for the crotch are in right there in the instructions for putting the crotch together.
KathleenS said... (5/8/04 3:34 AM) Reply
I missed this review! Thanks for the review, the pattern sounds very interesting and appealing.
Donna Guy said... (5/7/04 2:06 PM) Reply
Great looking pants and a very good review, drsue. I have this pattern (haven't sewn it up yet, though) and I didn't notice the tips on fitting when I looked the instructions over. Where did you find them?
Sue Anfang said... (5/4/04 2:27 PM) Reply
Fabulous pants, I have the pattern and will put them on my to do list soon!!!
Debbie Spriggs said... (5/4/04 9:35 AM) Reply
I love the style of those pants! I may need this pattern, too...
Diana M said... (5/2/04 7:48 PM) Reply
Sounds like this pattern might be worth buying just for the instructions! Good job, and brave of you to follow new ideas "blindly."
blue mooney said... (5/2/04 7:42 PM) Reply
Saw these pants in the latest Vogue mag and thought I might like them. Your review and photo make me want to run out and buy! You have a great pair of pants there! Thanks for the thorough review.
drsue said... (5/2/04 5:46 PM) Reply
Thank you all for the compliments. I don't think the picture came out very well though. For those inquiring, I believe this pattern was just released by Vogue. The earlier Shaeffer pattern was for very classic trousers with a waist band, sadly it looked kind of dated even when it was released. This is more in line with current fashion.
Sew it seams said... (5/2/04 4:10 PM) Reply
Those pants look great on you! Thanks for this review. I have one of Claire Schaeffer's pattern as well and now I would like to try it. Although I think I like this pattern better. I don't remember seeing it.
Deepika said... (5/2/04 3:41 PM) Reply
Lovely pants drsue! Is this a new pattern?
CarolynGM said... (5/2/04 3:35 PM) Reply
Your pants look great. I bought this pattern two weeks ago, and now I can't wait to try it out!
Maija said... (5/2/04 1:23 PM) Reply
Thank you SO much for reviewing this pattern! I just bought it last weekend and want to sew it very soon. I'm really looking forward to trying it.
Motorposus said... (5/2/04 1:14 PM) Reply
I've been curious about this pattern, particuarly the instructions. Thank you for your in-depth review. Your pants have a very clean, sophisticated look.
gabrielle said... (5/2/04 1:04 PM) Reply
Thanks very much for reviewing this pattern--it's one I've been thinking about. They look great.
jlg said... (5/2/04 12:51 PM) Reply
Thanks for this review. I've been wanting to try one of Claire Schaeffer's patterns. This looks very nice.
Linda E. said... (5/2/04 12:47 PM) Reply
great looking pants I have this pattern I think I should look at making it some time along with all the other projectx (lol) I have been wanting to do, I love your pants they look very good on you.
Kim Winson said... (5/2/04 12:25 PM) Reply
Sue, great review! Your pants look great. I like waistbands too--I need them to define my waist. I have a "staple" pants pattern but I have to wrestle with the waistband application everytime I make it. I'm giong to check this one out!
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