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|Reviewed by:||Elizabeth made this|| |
|Posted on:||8/3/10 9:49 PM |
|Last Updated:||4/7/15 3:41 PM|
|Pattern Photo:|| BurdaStyle Magazine Pattern Info|
More Info provided by Elizabeth made this
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
|Review Rating:|| Very Helpful by 4 people |
|See reviews of patterns from this issue|
|Fabric:||Rayon Jersey [See other projects in this fabric]|
|Pattern Description: From Burda's French site:|
"As a field of flowers in summer ... The printed one thousand flowers , red on white background, ideally suited to the summer cut of this dress -minded lingerie Sleeve Raglan cut - way cache heart. The fabric , a stretchy jersey can achieve without the zip. But you must sew all the seams with a small zigzag stitch to qu''elle remains elastic."
I sewed a 34 in the shoulders, transitioning to a 36 at my full bust line and a 38 by my full hip. Really, I should have stayed a 34 until I got to my hip because the fit across the bust is generous.
**version 2 being the yellow rayon jersey and being not quite 4 months postpartum vs 14 with version 1 and I will still say that the fit across the bust is generous.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?yes
on version 2 I mistakenly overlaid the wrap piece which should have gone under the full front piece. This isn't a big deal--it does make the two dresses look different from each other, but it also means I can't add a belt on my short waist.
Were the instructions easy to follow?yes, but this dress pretty much sews itself.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The pleating at the top of the bodice is a nice detail, and the raglan cap sleeves give this dress a unique look.
I appreciate that the directions have you construct the crossover in the flat. There is a line where the short portion hits on the full front and you baste them together and treat them as one front. This is so much easier than trying to baste through 3 layers before sewing the side seams.
The little tiny crescent of a facing for the armhole is (I know this will be shocking)laughable. It looks absurd. A better solution I think would have been to run a little strip of interfacing the width of the seam allowance between the underarm notches, clip to them, turn and double needle. **I tried what I suggested for version 2, and I would say don't clip until you've finished the shoulder seam finishing--I'm purposely not showing any pictures of the underside of my armscye finishing--it's not horribly pretty.
Fabric Used: ITY jersey from Denver Fabrics' brick and mortar store. It had some color inconsistencies that made it impossible to match the pattern, but it's not terrible. The belt is a super soft rayon knit that I picked up for 97 cents a yard at a sale that DF had last week.
Version 2 was a great deal more spendy with rayon jersey from EOS ($16/yd--holy cats!), but thankfully I had a gift certificate.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made a contrast belt because the self-belt was an unmitigated disaster. The pattern tells you to interface the belt, which I thought was odd on a knit, given that I've made plenty of knit belts sans interfacing and had just fine results. I think the pattern has you do this because the belt is essentially the same as another project in the magazine, which is a woven pattern with extra topstitching.
I made self loops for the belt and stitched them where the pattern would have me do so, but where the pattern had them marked was lower than my own waist. This just added width to me and generally looked weird. In the end, I just took them off. My belt has enough stick-um power to stay at my natural waist anyhow.
Because there is no waist seam, I didn't bother to petite anything and instead just didn't add any hem allowance. The length of the dress in the modeled photo hits above the knee, so I figured by not adding any hem allowance, I wouldn't have to shorten anything for my petite size and the hem would hit me somewhere in the vacinity of my knee, which it did.
I stabilized the neckline and the hems with Emma Seabrooke's knit interfacing . I used the full width for the bottom hem and cut it half for the neckline edges and the sleeve hems. I love how convenient this stuff is to use, and it makes for a nice base when twin-needling. It makes a defined (but soft) fold line for hems, so all you have to do is fuse, flip, and stitch. It doesn't get much easier than that.
I twin-needled more than the pattern called for because I found that it kept the seam allowances nice and tidy, and I'm a topstitching junkie.
This does end up being a pretty low cut dress. Because it's a bit loose in the bust because of how I cut it out, a cami is a bit necessary, but it's not a big deal.
and another post for version 2 .
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I have sewn it again. I would recommend it, if for no other reason than it sewed up in less than 2 hours because you can serge the vast majority of everything.
Conclusion: It is a good pattern with some unique details and it is a comfortable dress to wear.
More on my blog:
Elizabeth Made This: Peacock Dress
and version #2
Elizabeth Made This: Milly Sunshine Dress
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