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Pattern Reviews> Folkwear> 125 (Huichol Wardrobe)

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Reviewed by:marthamyers
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About marthamyersstarstarstarstar
Member since: 11/14/05
Reviews: 172 (patterns: 157)
Skill level:Advanced
Favored by: 99 people
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Posted on:4/7/11 11:02 PM
Last Updated:5/26/16 2:36 PM
Project Photo:
Pattern Photo: Folkwear Pattern Info

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Pattern Rating:Recommend, with Modifications
Review Rating:
Very Helpful by 8 people   
Pattern Description:
Envelope contains a blouse, skirt, pants, shirt and tabard (open tunic). I made the blouse which is described as bound slash-front neckline on short unembroidered blouse, open collar, V-neck revealing lined yoke. Front and back, as well as sleeves are pleated to the yoke which may be trimmed with bias. Sleeves are also pleated into cuffs (ha!).

Pattern Sizing:
Small, Medium, Large - I made the Large.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Other than the changes I made in the neckline, it looks very much like the technical drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow?Yes, the instructions were quite easy to follow, though I made a few changes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I visualized a top that could be lengthened to look much like the vintage Mexican dresses I wore in the late 60's and early 70's. I wanted to try it as a top first. The old ones which could be had for a song in Texas, had gorgeous embroidery on them. I was somewhat disappointed by my result because it is so different from my vision. But it was still an interesting pattern to try out, and the blouse is fun to wear.

I would have liked the pattern better had there been a gusset or some other kind of under-arm shaping. The tabard in the pattern envelope evidently does have an underarm gusset. As drafted, the blouse is made from rectangles - 2 for sleeves with rectangular cuffs, identical rectangles for front and back, and rectangles for the yoke and yoke facing. There are a minimum of 8 (!) layers that come together at a single point in the arm pit. Luckily my fabric is very light weight cotton lawn. I created a striped piping to offset the yoke, which added more layers to the arm pit. I also made French seams, adding even more layers. I made a weak attempt to grade this area and moved on with my life.

I loved the pleating technique described and adapted it to something I enjoyed doing. For once, I didn't overwork it. I just went with the flow on those unmarked, eye-balled pleats. I used this technique to attach the yoke to the front, back and sleeve heads.

IMO there was no way to pleat the sleeve hems onto the cuffs as instructed. There was so much fabric, that I simply gathered it as tightly as I could using a machine basting stitch and sewed it to the band. This created a kind of padded band.

Fabric Used:Very soft, almost shear cotton lawn.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I added 2-3 inches to the bottom of the front and the back. It's still pretty short on me and I'm only 5'5". I probably should've added to the sleeve length. I usually need to make that adjustment. But it's OK - I can push the sleeves up.

As mentioned above, I added piping to the yoke. I also put a narrow band on the sleeve hems, using the dense gathering of the sleeves to make a kind of padded binding. The pattern called for a wide cuff.

As described in the previous review of this pattern, it is important to measure the slash for the neck opening and compare it to your head. I don't know anyone with a head small enough fit through the marked slashes. I had to slash and slash. I'm not 100% happy with the result. It's very different from the picture on the front, as well as the technical drawing, but it is probably OK on this very casual top. I did not use binding to finish off the slashes. Instead I traced the needed slash onto the back of one yoke, placed the yoke and yoke facing right sides together, stitched around the slash marks, cut open the slashes, turned to the right side and pressed the neckline. Next I attached the front, back and sleeve heads to the single layer of top yoke. I hand-stitched the yoke facing to the top yoke afterwards.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I don't think I'll make the blouse again. I might try the shirt or the tabard. I'm not sure if I recommend this or not. On the one hand, it's fun to make something with almost no fit issues unless you count the circumference of my head. And the fabric was a dream to sew. I guess I'll keep looking for that 60's Mexican dress pattern, or find one to copy. Maybe Folkwear will come out with one so I don't have to do this!

Conclusion: DH says it makes me look 40 years younger, a form of sarcasm so subtle that I almost missed it. So I'm going to wear a lot when I go out with him ;)


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11 Comments      Login to Add a Comment    
prttynpnk said... (5/27/16 9:33 AM) Reply
I like it alot. Its peasanty, but not tenty!
m/m said... (5/27/16 7:40 AM) Reply
Love the top and the description. Vogue had a top and dress pattern back in the early/mid 1970s (that's about 40 years isn't it?) that I made and still miss sometimes.
carolynw said... (5/26/16 11:55 PM) Reply
I like it a lot - it looks very nice on you and is so right for summer. DH will love going on the town with the younger Martha! What will he wear to keep up?
shoes15 said... (5/26/16 8:14 PM) Reply
That is a sweet sweet blouse. It sounds like it was well worth the effort. And it's a time machine to boot!
esseesee said... (5/26/16 3:24 PM) Reply
In the 1970s, I had a Mexican peasant dress which I bought in an extremely upmarket shop in Sloane Square, London. I adored that dress and kept it for many years. I was delighted beyond measure, a few years ago, to find the blog and her instructions and diagrams for the *exact* style, including underarm gussets and crochet edging, I had loved so much more than 40 years ago. have a look and see what you think! She covers both dresses and blouses in all sizes. I have made some lovely ones including one for myself 'for old times' sake'.
BobeeKay said... (7/30/14 7:41 PM) Reply
Folkwear now has that Mexican dress you want! It is Folkwear #142. I have carpal tunnel and don't have an embroidery machine, so I buy my Oaxacan dresses here:
JETrinity said... (4/8/11 7:07 PM) Reply
Oh, this looks so great on you with your hair color and red shoes.
Aixoise said... (4/8/11 12:40 PM) Reply
I like the look of this on you. Very becoming. And the fabric is really pretty. Make your husband some OP shorts so he'll look younger, too.
DorothyK said... (4/8/11 12:12 PM) Reply
Very pretty - great fabric. I remember those days too. I still have one dress hanging in my closet from that era. I can't bear to get rid of it.
Patti B said... (4/8/11 9:35 AM) Reply
I know just what dresses you were remembering! As I recall, they needed a gusset too. Sounds as if you had an interesting time sewing this. It's a great lightweight top for warm weather in that pretty fabric.
FreyaStark said... (4/8/11 5:06 AM) Reply
It's a cute top, even if the result isn't quite what you had in mind. You might like Folkwear's Roumanian peasant blouse (#103), which I'm working on at the moment. It has simpler sleeves and underarm gussets.
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