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Pattern Reviews> HotPatterns> 1121 (Cote D' Azur Knit Dress, Top)

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Reviewed by:michellep74
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About michellep74starstarstar
WA United States
Member since: 7/19/07
Reviews written: 164
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 119 people
patterns reviewed: 140
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Posted on:8/18/11 8:25 PM
Last Updated:9/3/14 2:35 PM
Pattern Size:Plus-Sized Regular 
Project Photo:HotPatterns: 1121 by michellep74

HotPatterns: 1121 by michellep74  HotPatterns: 1121 by michellep74    
Pattern Photo:

More Info provided by michellep74

Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
Review Rating: Helpful by 2 people    Very Helpful by 16 people   
Fabric:ITY Jersey  [See other projects in this fabric]
Update (3-Sep-2014): I pulled out this pattern and made another version. This time, I made the dress view. I wanted a longer dress, and so I didn't make any adjustments to the length. This dress is near-maxi-length on me in back (with the hi-lo hem), and I'm 5'2".

The fabric for the dress version is a cotton/spandex blend from Girl Charlee with a daisy print. It's fairly lightweight and very drapey, and it's very, very soft. This is definitely a "secret pajamas" dress.

More on my blog:


Pattern Description:

From the HotPatterns web site:

"Super-simple cool-girl style with these great knit pieces, designed for light or medium weight drape-y knits...think bamboo, rayon, modal, tencel, viscose, burn-out knits, or even a silk jersey.

Semi-fitted Dress, Tunic or Top has a center back seam, ā€˜Vā€™ neckline with self or rib trim and center front seam with ruched detail.
Top finishes at the low hip with a deep hem; Tunic & Dress have separate hem facings, plus a gently flared A-line silhouette with a center front flare from waist to hem. Tunic finishes mid thigh; Dress finishes below the knee, with a slightly longer hemline at the back. Complete your look with classic cap, rib-trimmed cap or elbow length sleeves.

Wear these gorgeous pieces whenever you need a relaxed, chic and comfy look...layer the tunic over some skinny cropped pants; team the dress with chunky wedge sandals; and try the top with your favorite slouchy pants."

I started off making the tunic but turned it into the top because of me not thinking my petite alterations all the way through (more details on that Alterations section).

Pattern Sizing:

HotPatterns sizes 6-26.

I made my usual size blending of starting with an 18 through the neck/shoulders and blending to a 22 from the bust on down. (Also known as a "cheater FBA".)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes! Although be aware that this pattern seems to run a little longer (in sleeve length and hem length) than some other HotPatterns I've made. Not a big deal, just something to note.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes! This was the first "new" HotPattern that I've sewn in a while (I've been sewing mostly TNTs for the past few months), so I was surprised to see how much more detailed these instructions were than previous HotPatterns. Trudy now includes notes of when to understitch and other details to create a nicer-looking garment. If you've never sewn a HotPattern before, this would be a good one to start with.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Likes: The pattern goes together very quickly and is nicely shaped to be flattering on a curvy figure. (It only took me 3.5 hours to complete this top from opening the pattern envelope to putting on the final top--and that included a lot of futzing with length.) The CF ruching detail is cute, and Trudy includes a notched guide piece to help you get your ruching even. I don't know why more patterns don't do this where ruching is an important detail. Oh yes, and I sewed most of the top on my serger.

Dislikes: None.

Fabric Used:

Blue period floral ITY jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Heh. As I mentioned before, I'd originally intended to make the tunic view instead of the top. But...when I held the pattern pieces up to myself, they were quite long. I could tell that I wanted the length probably more than 4" shorter, but decided to start with 4" of shortening. I drew two lengthen/shorten lines under the bust area of the pattern then folded and taped my pattern pieces. Seems easy enough, right?

Well, if you look at the front pattern piece, you'll see where the CF seam "swings out" to form the drape that you see in the line drawing. (The view for the top has an additional line that eliminates the drape/swing out line.) All of the length that I eliminated came from the drape section because I didn't think through the lengthen/shorten placement, so I wound up with a short drape and a drape that started a bit low on my body.

I realized what a big deal this was when I tried on my nearly-finished tunic and saw that the break for the drape started just above hip-level on me, and the, um, effect as it went down to just below my crotch height was rather Georgia O'Keeffe-esque. If I was a contestant on Project Runway, Michael Kors would scolded me for having "crotch curtains" in my tunic. So, I had to do something about that.

I wound up ditching the hem facing and shortening the tunic to top length and serging the drape mostly closed.

By doing my size 18-to-22 grade/cheater FBA, I did not need any additional alterations beyond adjusting the length.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I absolutely plan to sew it again! I'd like to eventually try all three views, but to start off with, I think I'll make a few more tops and try the dress. I definitely recommend it to others as well--just check the pattern length on yourself before cutting your fabric.


My favorite "new" pattern of the summer, so far. It's a rare pattern where I complete one version and immediately want to make another one--this is one of those patterns.

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23 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
OP Gal said... (2/28/15 8:47 AM) Reply
Looks great on you, especially the dress. It's always good to see patterns that flatter a curvy figure. Need more of those. :)
Speech girl said... (9/5/14 11:13 AM) Reply
Looks great! I made the dress years ago and it was maxi length on me (also 5'2") so I was very happy when maxi dresses came in fashion. Thanks for reminding me about this pattern!
Debbie Dabbles said... (9/4/14 2:44 PM) Reply
Love the blue one. Thanks for the detailed review. Even if I never sew this, as a beginner I can see what you mean by the placement of where you shorten. You may have saved me a future error.
Kim12469 said... (9/4/14 11:58 AM) Reply
Love the dress! Very cute!
donna wicks said... (9/3/14 9:45 PM) Reply
Looks great on you. I have made this pattern once as a dress and twice as tops. Likely will use it again when I start sewing for next summer. Glad that you liked this pattern
Quickie said... (9/3/14 3:09 PM) Reply
The top was cute, but the dress is much more flattering on you
detroy said... (9/3/14 3:03 PM) Reply
Very flattering on you, and such a happy print!
AngieC said... (4/29/13 9:23 AM) Reply
Love this top on you! Thanks for a detailed review so now I can order this pattern today~ ☼
NicholeMc said... (8/21/11 9:52 PM) Reply
Michelle, thanks for reviewing! I love the finished product! I just cut this up in a muslin myself; however, I think some of my instructions got chopped off and I'm confused by some of the pieces. Would you mind PMing me so we can compare notes?
Annette1 said... (8/21/11 1:27 AM) Reply
A great review, and such a CUTE top! Love that BLUE print, too. :o)
ChristineX said... (8/19/11 4:30 PM) Reply
Cute top!
crazygrad said... (8/19/11 12:22 PM) Reply
Love it! Those blues are great on you!
AdaH said... (8/19/11 11:26 AM) Reply
Very good review. Love the fabric and fit.
Q Valley Mary said... (8/19/11 11:02 AM) Reply
Great top! I love your disaster description--funny and very helpful at the same time.
JudyP said... (8/19/11 10:44 AM) Reply
Your top looks great! I have plans for the top as well. I love this pattern!
sewme47 said... (8/19/11 9:55 AM) Reply
Great looking top! Michelle, does everything you make have to be so darn cute?! haha Your reviews are always so informative...thanks for all the great tips.
Heatherrique said... (8/19/11 7:10 AM) Reply
Tres chic, Michelle! Very nice colors and style on you!
Rebecca D said... (8/19/11 6:39 AM) Reply
Gorgeous fabric on you and a very flattering top. Your reviews are always so helpful. I need to go buy this one.
SewWil said... (8/19/11 0:47 AM) Reply
Very pretty top! I can see why you would want to make another one.
Riesie said... (8/19/11 0:07 AM) Reply
Boy, you look good in blue. The top is lovely.
Julia C said... (8/18/11 9:33 PM) Reply
Beautiful fabric & very helpful review.
Sew4Fun said... (8/18/11 9:29 PM) Reply
Nice job. Thanks for the review and in particular the details about shortening (and what not to do :) ) because I'm sure I'll need to shorten the pattern too.
MNBarb said... (8/18/11 9:06 PM) Reply
It looks really good on you. I especially like the neckline.
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