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Pattern Reviews> Butterick> 6256 (Retro Jacket & Skirt (1947))

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Reviewed by:Emily I.

About Emily I.
Member since: 12/18/09
Reviews: 2 (patterns: 2)
Skill level:Intermediate
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Posted on:10/30/11 5:53 PM
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Karen Easter said... (10/31/11 0:36 AM) Reply
Gussets don't take a lot of fabric, and you can piece them if you have to -- no one's going to see that anyway! There may also be ways to harvest fabric from the finished garment, too. You may have some extra fabric in the seam allowances that you can let out a little. How deep are your hems? I've been known to steal fabric from the reverse side of the hem (where it won't show) if I don't think I'll want to let them out someday. Replace the harvested hem fabric with something else like lining fabric or silk organza. I did so much harvesting/piecing/replacing of fabric when I was making my son's formal Prince Charlie jacket to wear with his kilt. I didn't have quite enough fabric to begin with, and then I accidentally slashed one of the front pieces with my scissors! A patch wouldn't have worked, so I made a new design line on both front pieces. The jacket's kind of a Frankenstein creation, but no one else can tell.
Emily I. said... (10/30/11 11:21 PM) Reply
Thanks Karen. Having recently read an older Threads article (already returned to the library) it occurred to me this afternoon about inserting gussets (if I can find any leftover fabric.) That would certainly be easier than remaking the whole thing. Thanks for the links & advice --- very cool that your son can play the bagpipes.
Karen Easter said... (10/30/11 7:08 PM) Reply
Emily, your suit looks lovely! I can't get the photo to enlarge, but it looks very nice in the thumbnail. I often need to enlarge the upper arm area. There's at least one way to do it after the garment is all made up if you decide you want to: add a gusset. I'm just looking on the Threads website for tutorials... the two I've found describe the process, but the illustrations aren't that great. Here's a general article on working with vintage patterns... scroll down a bit for the information on gussets: -- This describes cutting into a kimono sleeve to add the gusset, but with a set-in sleeve you'd just need to open seams. Here's another one: My son is a bagpiper who needs to be able to lift his arms easily, so I've put gussets into his kilt jackets. The way I've figured out the right shape and size is to open the top sections of the sleeve and jacket side seam. I put some muslin under the opening and have him move his arms the way he wants. I draw the opening shape on the muslin, smooth out the lines of the shape, add seam allowances, and then use it as a pattern. His gussets usually turn out to be sort of football shaped.
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