Paco Peralta: T Coat (T Coat) - Type:Coat/Jacket  | | Viewed 544 times
| 1 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 18 people | | Reviewed by: | Tany | 
| About Tany | | PORTUGAL | | Member since: 3/2/06 | | Reviews written: 29 | | Sewing skills:Advanced | | Favored by: 62 people | | patterns reviewed: 28 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 12/2/11 1:56 PM | | Last Updated: | 12/2/11 2:07 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | Paco Peralta Pattern Info More Info provided by Tany | | Pattern Rating: | Highly Recommend | | | | Fabric: | Boiled Wool [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
Full lined T-shaped straight-cut coat, has a front yoke, stand-up collar and in-seam buttonholes and in-seam side pockets. It features dropped shoulder and two options for the sleeves: long or ¾ with turn-ups (there are cutting lines for both options on the pattern, and for the lining as well)
Pattern Sizing:
The pattern comes graded in three sizes (S, M and L) and I cut the M. It's hand drafted by hand on a continuous pattern paper and includes 5/8 seam allowances and 2inch hem allowances; it's ready to be cut and placed on the fabric. The lining pattern is also included.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, quite true to pattern sketch
Were the instructions easy to follow?
There are no instructions for this pattern, but Paco has published a few tutorials that are really helpful:
Making the T coat: http://pacoperaltarovira.blogspot.com/search/label/T-Coat
The industrial method (great bagging tutorial): http://pacoperaltarovira.blogspot.com/2008/01/chaqueta-confeccin-industrial.html
In-seam pocket how-to: http://pacoperaltarovira.blogspot.com/2010/10/bolsillos-integrados-en-las-costuras.html
Here's the construction order that I used:
1º Apply interfacings (I used soft fusible interfacing, similar to pro-weft interfacing): collar, facings, along center front (roughly facing wide), hem allowances (5 inches wide) and pocket openings.
2º - Stitch the front yoke/facing to the bottom front/facing, leaving openings for the buttonhole on both right front and facing
3º - Stitch the center back seam
4º - Stitch the shoulder seams
5º - Stitch the sleeve pieces to the armholes
6º - Reinforce the neckline stitching near the seam line (you can also reinforce the neckline with fusing tape or a strip of lining selvage; I didn't because the collar piece is cut on the grain and it is stable enough)
7º - Stitch the side seams (leaving the pocket openings unstitched) and the sleeves seams in a continuous step
8º - Construct the in-seam pockets
9º - Stitch the lining front yoke to the bottom front
10º - Stitch the lining fronts to the front facings
11º - Stitch the lining back seam leaving a fold for ease of movement, as indicated in the pattern
12º - Stitch the lining back to the lining front/facing along the shoulders, obtaining a circular opening, where the collar will be later inserted
(click here and here)
13º - Stitch the collar (folded in half, stitch along the narrow edges not crossing the seam allowance in the collar line, then clip corners and turn to right side)
(click here)
14º - Insert the collar in the opening, clipping around the reinforced neckline edge
(click here and here)
15º - Stitch all around the collar/neckline (don't forget to leave the in-seam buttonhole openings where marked on the right front and facing), notch the collar SAs and press the seams open. Turn everything to the right side and backstitch on the ditch around the neckline, making sure the seams match on the right side and lining side. Press one last time
(click here)
16º - Continue with the lining construction, stitching the lining sleeves to the lining armholes and then the lining side seams/sleeve seams in a single step. I left an opening on one of the sleeve seams to be able to turn the coat/lining to the right side once the lining is bagged
17º - I bagged the lining using the industrial method explained by Paco. Turned the coat/lining to the right side and basted the front facings in place, and all the hems; turned the coat/lining to the wrong side again and hand-tacked the hems and the front facing to the front. Turned the coat/lining to the right side, closed the lining opening and removed the bastings
18º - Slipstitched the buttonholes by hand and stitched in the buttons; after the last pressing the coat was finished!
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked everything about this pattern; I've been lusting over a wide fit coat for some time and Paco's T-coat pattern filled the bill perfectly!
Fabric Used:
Wool/polyester blend, sort of boiled wool finish, bought locally. I used 2.5 yards of fabric and roughly the same in lining
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The only alteration was shortening the sleeves by a little more than 2", yet getting a wider hem allowance. This way I can also do turn-ups if desired (click here)
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don't know if I'll sew this pattern again (who knows?) and I highly recommend it.
Conclusion:
This pattern is rated excellent by my book, nothing less should be expected from Paco; everything is carefully marked and labeled, all pattern pieces match perfectly. This coat is fairly easy to make (the collar is very easy, the in-seam pockets are quite straight forward as well; there aren't any real challenging details). I like the clean straight lines, the minimalistic style yet respecting the body's anatomical characteristics, and I believe the end result is quite outstanding. If you are interested, more details of this coat were shared at my sewing blog (Click Here); there are also pictures of me wearing this coat at my personal style blog (Click Here)
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16 Comments
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Thanks for all the details, it's a gorgeous coat!
12/2/11 2:12 PM
Beautiful!
12/2/11 2:19 PM
It is so beautiful. Thanks for sharing your carefully crafted coat and review with PR! Love that color, too.
12/2/11 3:01 PM
Just gorgeous!
12/2/11 3:18 PM
Great coat - beautiful colour. Thanks for the detailed review.
12/2/11 3:28 PM
Spectacular coat which you wear beautifully!
12/2/11 5:18 PM
Lovely coat, the pattern looks great, and the details on your sewing blog are really helpful
12/3/11 5:51 AM
fantastic coat!! Fabric, buttons, it all looks beautiful. Thank you so much for your excellent review. I have this pattern and plan to make it up over Christmas break - so I'll be back again and again to read.
12/3/11 6:48 AM
Wow! Great coat and absolutely fabulous review. Thanks for all the details. I hope to order this pattern soon, now that I know about it! Thanks.
12/3/11 9:03 AM
Stunning coat in a gorgeous color. Thanks for an incredibly helpful review.
12/3/11 10:01 AM
Thank you for a complete and very helpful review, as well as the gorgeous eye candy of your coat! I was looking at some Paco Peralta patterns recently. This may push me closer. Your coat design is very stylish and your choice of fabric is perfect for the design. Love it.
12/3/11 10:34 AM
I must say that you and your coat look about one thousand times better than the grey version shown on your pattern link. What a beautiful color and you've styled it perfectly!
12/3/11 1:29 PM
Gorgeous coat!
12/3/11 10:37 PM
Amazing!
12/4/11 2:45 AM
Thank you all for your lovely comments!
12/4/11 7:36 AM
Tany..Love your coat, stunning. This review led me to your blog, which is excellent. I would like to order the pattern, but am I right in understanding that it does not come with directions. I am interested in the industry technique for finishing the hem.
12/10/11 1:26 PM