BurdaStyle Magazine: 11-2008-116 (Coat) - Type:Coat/Jacket  | | Viewed 240 times
| 1 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 4 people | | Reviewed by: | redsilvia | 
| About redsilvia | | CA USA | | Member since: 1/20/09 | | Reviews written: 19 | | Sewing skills:Advanced | | Favored by: 5 people | | patterns reviewed: 19 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 12/22/11 2:12 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | More Info provided by redsilvia | | Pattern Rating: | Recommend, with Modifications | | NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue | | | | Fabric: | Wool Coating [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
Plain cuts allow fabulous fabrics and bright colours to stand out, as here on a slight shaped riding coat. It sports a true-to-style standing collar, side-seam pockets as well as side and sleeve tabs.
What they mean is a princess line coat, with front and back shoulder yokes, two piece sleeves, standing collar and inseam pockets.
Pattern Sizing:
38 to 46. I made a 40/42 depending on the area of the body.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, barring the change I made to length.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Well it's Burda and a 3 dot project. They assume you know what you're doing. I used their order of construction, but did my own thing to minimize hand sewing at all costs!
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Tracing off the pattern was a bear. It's ok with big pieces, but those little fiddly pieces are hard. Plus you have to make a separate lining pattern so you get to make this pattern twice. I adjusted the lining pattern using the recommendations in "Tailoring" adding more ease to underarms and a back pleat.
Also, after trying on the totally completed coat I'd change the collar a smidge. There is no closure on the collar so it doesn't always lay flat when closed. I can add a covered snap there, but that would look odd when worn open (which I think will be the majority of time in my case). You can add a button and buttonhole there if you plan ahead and buy enough buttons (I didn't). What I would do if I made this again would be to make the collar shorter, more of a mandarin collar, about half the length it is finished now. Then it wouldn't open, plus I'd use a stiffer interfacing there.
Fabric Used:
I used an Italian wool coating with a plush velour-type nap. The lining is 100% silk and it feels like a light taffeta - a dream to work with.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
-I shortened the coat to mid thigh length - much more suited to my California climate than a long coat.
-Changed the CF opening to an off grain opening to prevent the gap you get at the front of a coat when it's buttoned. At waist I marked out past CF 1/2" and drew a line from neck through 1/2" dot on down making a triangle. This change made it necessary to change the front fold back facing to a separate piece.
-I used a fusible web interfacing and interfaced the entire front pieces and all hems. Yes, the entire front is interfaced. That tip worked great. In fact I'd be tempted to interface the whole coat body next time.
-Added a back stay made from muslin. Here's an online reference:
http://sewaholic.net/tailoring-a-coat-making-a-back-stay/
But I used the reference in "Tailoring" (ISBN 1-58923-609-2) which I found an invaluable reference for this project.
-Lining was inserted with the bagging method. I use the method described in Claire Shaeffer's "The Complete Book of Sewing Short Cuts" - another book I use alot.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
No, I won't sew this particular coat again, but it's not a hard coat to sew. I'd never made a coat before and wanted to give one a try. This is a good choice in that it has inseam pockets and a stand collar for those that are tailoring shy like I am - or was I should say.
Conclusion:
I chose to make a coat because I'd never made one before. I don't have a great need for heavy coats in my climate but I don't like feeling like I can't make one. This was a great learning project and I found new books to help me and worked with great quality materials.
I also learned that my Bernina can't make buttonholes much bigger than 1" so beware of choosing huge buttons if you plan on making machine buttonholes. I did finagle slightly larger buttonholes from my machine but I did have to make each buttonhole at least twice.
This project was also a bit overwhelming because of the amount of reference materials I used. I put off sewing it up because I didn't want to do it wrong or make a mistake. Well at that rate I was never going to have a coat, so I finally plunged in and decided to make a coat with minimal hand sewing and RTW sewing techniques. I'm not a couture sewist and this project reinforced that. My coat turned out well and I'm not scared to coat making anymore! That's a win in my book.
More information and photos on my blog:
http://redsilvia.wordpress.com/2011/12/22/christmas-miracle/
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11 Comments
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This is a gorgeous coat! Love your fabric and lining choices. Thank you for your link to the back stay tutorial. Congratulations on making your first coat!
12/22/11 4:09 PM
Great coat and love the colour. Looks like you are really enjoying it.
12/22/11 4:14 PM
I think your coat is really cute and you did a great job. I'm wondering if you could just use a brooch at the neck when you want it to stay closed, and when you don't you could pin the brooch elsewhere. Love the color too.
12/22/11 5:06 PM
Beautiful coat in a lovely color! Great job on your first coat.
12/22/11 7:29 PM
Love the color!
12/22/11 11:20 PM
Congrats on your first coat,it came out wonderfully!
12/23/11 3:31 PM
Wow! Just terrific and a lovely color! Well one.
12/23/11 6:05 PM
Beautiful coat! I love the color, and you look very happy in the picture. Great job. Your Bernina does make longer buttonholes, but you'd have to use the buttonhole foot. If you ever do decide to make another coat, a bound buttonhole is a great choice. They aren't as hard to make as they look!
12/23/11 6:29 PM
This looks terrific. Great effort for your 1st coat.
12/23/11 7:08 PM
Very nice! Love the color and the style.
12/25/11 10:01 AM
Great coat and great colour! Aren't you glad you just went for it ?!
12/25/11 6:18 PM