Pattern Description:
Misses cocktail dress has triangle bodice in front and back, gathered ruffle at shoulder, midriff, and pleated skirt. I left off the shoulder ruffle, did a gathered dirndl skirt, and lengthened it to full length.
Pattern Sizing:
36-44. I graded the bodice to a 34 and cut the midriff at a 34 at the top, transitioning to 36 at the waist. The midriff ended up quite small and I added two inches to its width.
Fabric Used:
A Fortuny-style pleated fabric from Exquisite Fabrics, which they said was from the warehouse of Mary McFadden, purchased during PR Weekend DC. Originally $60/yd, marked down to $30/yd. I bought about two yards (in separate pieces and on separate occasions).
Total cost, including linings and notions: $75. Very expensive for me!
Time to Make:
I had, it turned out, limited time to make this. Luckily, it went more smoothly than I expected. I probably put about 15 hours into the project.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I wasn't keen on the shoulder ruffle, but as the marked gathering line on the pattern is the shoulder line it was easy to leave off.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
The basic shape is the same.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I did not use them.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
-I started by muslining the bodice. Before cutting the muslin I shortened the diagonal neckline and narrowed the gather area on the front bodice for a small bust adjustment. After muslining, I took another tuck in the diagonal front neckline to shorten it further. Here is the final front bodice pattern.
-The muslin revealed the armscye to be uncomfortably high. This is unusual on a BWOF pattern for me. I lowered the armscye about 1/2 inch.
-I also found the shoulder too tall at the shoulder edge. This might have something to do with the gathered design, but I gathered my shoulder as well, just without the standing ruffle. I had to shorten the shoulder about 1/2 inch at the shoulder, tapering to nothing at the neck (this also influenced how much I had to lower the armscye).
-Overlapped the front bodice pieces at center front about an inch, rather than placing them next to one another, for coverage.
-I combined the midriff pieces so that it would be a single length of fabric with a CB seam. I also changed the shape--the original shape was narrower at the top and wider at the bottom. I am shaped wider at the ribcage and narrower in the waist, as are most people, so the design was a little odd.
For the midriff, I cut my usual size 34 at the ribcage to 36 at the waist. It fit in the muslin, but somehow in the real fabric I found it *much* too small. I added a squidge over an inch at each side using fabric insets. I was so upset to have to interrupt my smooth line, but it had to be done, and it allowed me to re-cut that wandering, off grain side (didn't have enough fabric to re-cut the entire midriff).
I underlined the midriff with lightweight lining fabric. The weight of the skirt was hanging from it and it had to be stabilized. I hand-stitched in the ditch at the side inset seamlines to keep the midriff fabric in place.
-I made the skirt as just a gathered dirndl. I did not want to cut off the upper selvage as the fabric frays weirdly (more like fuzzes), even after being serged. So I determined the skirt length, which turned out to be 3 inches shorter than the manufactured width of the fabric. I chalk-marked the skirt seamline and put my gathering stitches in above the chalk-line. Then gathered and stitched to the midriff along the marked line.
-After the skirt was on it was time for the hand-picked zipper. I use invisible zippers almost exclusively, and have completely lost my ability to install a regular zipper by machine. After the last disastrous attempt, I decided that any time I need to put in a regular zipper, I will just do it by hand. It's faster and nicer looking in the long run.
-After that hand stitching was done, it was on to hand-stitching the edges of the walking slit.
-Next I needed to hand-sew the midriff lining in place over the skirt/midriff seam.
-My original vision was to twist the shoulder straps before sewing the side seams, as I did several years ago on Vogue 8386. Unfortunately, the fabric was just too thick for it to look nice. I needed to have re-drafted the bodice to have a thin strap, rather than a thick gathered one. Alas. So I gathered the shoulders (by hand).
-The final step was embellishment. I used scraps of the fabric to make flowers (tutorial on my blog) and stitched them to the shoulders. I also individually hand sewed small, very subtle smoky glass beads in the pleats of the midriff.
Conclusion
When I came up with the idea for this dress, I was envisioning 1930s old Hollywood glamour. I was entirely thrilled with the way the dress came out. I felt that it captured my inspiration without being costumey and I felt utterly glamorous. The fit is good and it was comfortable to wear and move in.
I wore it to a New Year's Eve wedding. I wasn't the only person in a full length dress, thank goodness, and several guests gave me really nice compliments. The bride told me I looked like a movie star, which was so sweet.
I LOVED wearing this dress. It was my first true evening gown. Now I need another occasion to wear it!
All photos are here and the blog post is here. |
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Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
Very nice and fits you well. Enjoy!!
1/6/12 9:49 AM
You look very glamorous in your dress! Great job as usual. Thanks for the detailed review. Always a pleasure to read and so informative.
1/6/12 10:16 AM
Thanks for the photo of the front bodice pattern! I tried to make this dress last summer, and it was so roomy in the chest area I got completely discouraged to go further. I'm giving it a second chance, thanks!
1/6/12 10:33 AM
Amazingly beautiful.
1/6/12 10:33 AM
What a lovely style for you! Nice work.
1/6/12 10:48 AM
Very beautiful - the fit is absolutely perfect
1/6/12 11:21 AM
A lot of work and effort that really paid off. Beautiful starlet
1/6/12 11:23 AM
Absolutely gorgeous - both you and the dress!
1/6/12 11:32 AM
Absolutely gorgeous! You certainly do look like a movie star.
1/6/12 11:50 AM
You look stunning in this dress! And what a marvelous job of converting it from a cocktail dress. Next, send us a picture of you reclining on a sofa in this dress, drinking wine and being fed grapes by a good-looking guy in a toga all day! Seriously, thanks for another wonderful review.
1/6/12 12:48 PM
How lovely! And you DO look a bit like a famous star....say 1930s! :) Make it again in a zingy blue-green...>;)
1/6/12 12:54 PM
really lovely
1/6/12 12:59 PM
You look like a 30's movie star in that fantastic dress, indeed! That color was made for you!
1/6/12 1:25 PM
You wear this dress perfectly with your hair and the style is very flattering. Just beautiful!
1/6/12 1:59 PM
Kudos to you on making a beautiful, classy dress. Looks terrific. Nice work.
1/6/12 3:08 PM
How beautiful is this! Fabulous design-fabric match and adapted to match your vision. Thanks for a thorough review.
1/6/12 4:45 PM
wow, love it!
1/6/12 6:35 PM
Fabulous dress and it looks lovely on you!
1/6/12 6:45 PM
Very beautiful dress, perfect styling. You look glamorous!
1/6/12 6:53 PM
I also love 1930s gowns, and I think you really got the look!
1/6/12 7:07 PM
Absolutely Stunning!! And you do look like a Hollywood Silver Screen Actress.
1/6/12 7:41 PM
Absolutely Stunning!! And you do look like a Hollywood Silver Screen Actress. Oops done twice and I don't know how to delete lol.
1/6/12 7:41 PM
I've already commented on your blog, but this is worth complimenting twice (or more)...Stunning!
1/6/12 8:53 PM
The bride is right: you DO look like a movie star! The dress looks perfect, the flowers are lovely, and your hair is exactly right for the style of the dress. Quite amazing!
1/6/12 9:53 PM
Worth every penny and every minute of work - you look gorgeous. (And I too have lost my ability to insert a regular zipper, amazing).
1/6/12 11:19 PM
You look incredibly sophisticated and charming. Cute hair.
1/6/12 11:27 PM
You look incredibly sophisticated and charming. Cute hair.
1/6/12 11:27 PM
You look gorgeous & very elegant in that dress.
1/7/12 9:33 AM
You look gorgeous & very elegant in that dress.
1/7/12 9:33 AM
Really beautiful & glamorous! Excellent job!
1/7/12 10:36 AM
A perfect meeting of fabric, pattern, and wearer. And sewist. You look stunning and adorable. Accolades also to your eye for fabric: I vaguely remember seeing this at Exquisite but I never would have envisioned such a perfect destiny for it.
1/7/12 11:20 AM
So 1930's...love your style
1/7/12 12:56 PM
Gorgeous and thank you for the detailed review.
1/7/12 4:58 PM
Your dress looks beautiful! The current Australian vogue features a Lanvin silk tulle dress that is very reminiscent of yours. It retails for $8640!!
1/7/12 7:14 PM
It's not NICE to be more beautiful than the bride ;D
1/7/12 8:56 PM
This is a stunning dress! You look absolutely amazing! Fantastic job!
1/8/12 2:40 AM
You do indeed look like a movie star in this dress! What a stunning dress! This is the perfect use for this lovely pleated fabric.
1/8/12 10:35 AM
You look just like a movie star in this great dress!
1/8/12 6:27 PM
That is way better than the Burda version. Fantastic job!!!!
1/8/12 10:07 PM
Beautiful beautiful beautiful dress! (and I also love your hairdo a lot!)
1/9/12 8:48 AM
Starlet is the word that comes to mind! What a stunning dress for a NYE wedding.
1/9/12 5:05 PM
Love the va va vooom gown! You are dripping glamour and your hair style complements the gown beautifully. How lucky you had that fabulous fabric too!
1/10/12 12:42 PM
IDEA! Have a formal Oscar's Night party! and perhaps a glittering rhinestone necklace . . . OK, I admit I love shiny baubles.
1/10/12 12:48 PM
So elegant. Very flattering style on you.
1/12/12 7:05 PM